028 AV Wood Boss rebuild

[New Hampster]

I picked up a sweet little 028 AV Wood Boss yesterday. One owner, always serviced, but she's a dirty little girl. I figured after reading a bunch of reviews on beloved saws, this would be a great first rebuild for me to get my hands dirty on. The piston and cylinder look good so far (still need the right torx bit to remove cylinder screws), but everything else is apart. I have not split the case, as the crank seems complete rigid. Zero play besides in and out when the drive side clips are removed. There is a little play in the rotation of the flywheel. Is that normal?
I did have a couple of questions though. What size are the small ignition wires (the yellow and black ones)?
And I saw that someone else upgraded to the 46mm piston and cylinder and had fitment problems with the muffler. Can up just upgrade the piston to a meteor 44mm piston and rings and avoid any other fitment issues? There is a little play in the rotation of the flywheel. Is that normal?

 

[erikvr]

Play in the flywheel in relation to the crankshaft is not normal, could be the bearing?
If the piston is 46mm it's probably a 028S or they replaced the cylinder too. Or the original muffler is not on it. Maybe the cover is from another saw?
I have a scimilar frankensaw; Its a 024super with a 024WB top cover and a 026 cylinder piston. Found out it's a 024S because the replacement 024WB P/C kit dit not fit.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I think you might be safe to say your cylinder is a 44 mm but because there was also a 42 early cylinder it would be best to measure the bore before ordering a piston, many saws get piston/cylinder swaps, best to check first. There should be no up/down movement in the crankshaft at all, a little sideways movement is ok. I have swapped many of these saws over to 46 mmP&C sets, only difference I found with mufflers is that the earliest models have a side mount screw in the bottom muffler mount while the newer models just have mounting screws through the front.

 

[cgraham1]

I've got an 028 Super cylinder for sale if you want to upgrade... It's the one on the left.

 

[New Hampster]

I think you might be safe to say your cylinder is a 44 mm but because there was also a 42 early cylinder it would be best to measure the bore before ordering a piston, many saws get piston/cylinder swaps, best to check first. There should be no up/down movement in the crankshaft at all, a little sideways movement is ok. I have swapped many of these saws over to 46 mmP&C sets, only difference I found with mufflers is that the earliest models have a side mount screw in the bottom muffler mount while the newer models just have mounting screws through the front.

Seems like a lot of variations to a particular saw model over the years. I know I have the original P & C. There's isn't a single aftermarket part on this girl and the filth is 30+ years old.
But it seems to be in great condition, there's hardly a scratch on it when the filth is removed. I caught the piston just in time. The rings were right down to needing replacing, but there's zero scoring on either.
I'll measure the piston tomorrow. I don't think I want to upgrade to the super P & C. I'm going to keep the saw original and trade up to a super later if I'm not satisfied with the final build.

I could use a flywheel puller. I've been beating on the thing and it won't break free. I don't want to damage anything.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Seems like a lot of variations to a particular saw model over the years. I know I have the original P & C. There's isn't a single aftermarket part on this girl and the filth is 30+ years old.
But it seems to be in great condition, there's hardly a scratch on it when the filth is removed. I caught the piston just in time. The rings were right down to needing replacing, but there's zero scoring on either.
I'll measure the piston tomorrow. I don't think I want to upgrade to the super P & C. I'm going to keep the saw original and trade up to a super later if I'm not satisfied with the final build.

I could use a flywheel puller. I've been beating on the thing and it won't break free. I don't want to damage anything.

Flywheel pullers are a must have for the Stihl saws, Under $20. and available online.

 

[028 super]

There is a LOT of variation in the 028. Right now I have 7 of them here and only 2 are identical. A lot of things are interchangeable, but many are not.

 

[New Hampster]

Flywheel pullers are a must have for the Stihl saws, Under $20. and available online.

I couldn't find one for under $25.00. I was going to post a "Wanted to buy". I'm not even sure I'm keeping this saw, so I don't want to kick down for a tool that's literally 1/4
what I paid for the saw. My local Ace rent-a-center will not rent me one either.

 

[cgraham1]

Just loosen the nut, pry up on the flywheel, and hit the end of the crank with a punch. It will pop off. I just did two of them a week ago.

 

[New Hampster]

Just loosen the nut, pry up on the flywheel, and hit the end of the crank with a punch. It will pop off. I just did two of them a week ago.
View attachment 388077

I watched all the videos of it, I loosened the nut so it was flush with the top of the crank shaft as to not split or damage the end, I have a punch that fits the live center hole perfectly.
I have 3 specialty 90 deg screw drivers wedged under the flywheel, I've been beating on that thing for hours. I just don't want to damage it. It probably has never been taken off in 30 years. It's either buy the
tool or put the torch to it because this pig is not coming off.

 

[Mad Professor]

I couldn't find one for under $25.00. I was going to post a "Wanted to buy". I'm not even sure I'm keeping this saw, so I don't want to kick down for a tool that's literally 1/4
what I paid for the saw. My local Ace rent-a-center will not rent me one either.

Stihl dealer got mine for less than that. It fits most of my saws and I've got many.

Pull the flywheel and clutch BEFORE taking of the cylinder.

If original and in good shape put a set of caber rings in it and do seals, impulse line, fuel line/filter, carb kit. Stihl gasket set is cheaper than seals alone.

That saw you can give to your children if you treat it right.

 

[New Hampster]

Stihl dealer got mine for less than that. It fits most of my saws and I've got many.

Pull the flywheel and clutch BEFORE taking of the cylinder.

If original and in good shape put a set of caber rings in it and do seals, impulse line, fuel line/filter, carb kit. Stihl gasket set is cheaper than seals alone.

That saw you can give to your children if you treat it right.

So far my parts list is as follows:
fuel line/filter (Impulse line is good, manifold boot looks new)
carb kit
both front annular buffers and retainer buffer (back main buffer looked brand new)
ground wire (chewed and burned)
short circuit wire (chewed and mashed)
chain catcher (chewed up)
piston rings (re-hone the cylinder)
crank seals

I'm thinking I may re-powder coat the case. My buddy runs a coatings business, so I can have it done for material costs only.

 

[drf255]

One of the pro porters here told me that the stock 44mm on the saw will be fine and make more power than any AM 46mm kit.

I happened to run across a good OEM 46mm kit for a decent price though.

Interested in seeing your progress. I'm gonna build mine later this winter. With some home porting of the 46mm, of course.

 

[New Hampster]

One of the pro porters here told me that the stock 44mm on the saw will be fine and make more power than any AM 46mm kit.

I happened to run across a good OEM 46mm kit for a decent price though.

Interested in seeing your progress. I'm gonna build mine later this winter. With some home porting of the 46mm, of course.

The only concern I have, is making sure the rings I get have a tight tolerance width wise. I know some of those aftermarket rings are not and that's not good.
Even .003" can made a huge difference in performance as gas escape around the back of the ring.
So, I'm springing for the best or having them made by a buddy to fit the exact ring grooves in the piston +/- .0005". The grooves may not be what they once were.
At any rate, gauge blocks will reveal what's required. So far, everything is going great besides needing the flywheel tool.

 

[HarleyT]

Just take the crankcase by your local Stihl dealer and chat with the parts guy a bit. Then ask him how much they would charge just to remove the flywheel with their tool, chances are you could get it done for free, or at the worst, 5 bucks.

 

[New Hampster]

Well, Humpty Dumpy is back together again.
New AV Bushings, all wires, Meteor piston/rings, gaskets, wrist pin, needle bearings, Carb rebuild, fuel line/filter and tank breather hose.
Cost of saw $100. Total bill for parts $80. A minty fresh 028AV Wood Boss...priceless.

 

[drf255]

She's a beauty.

 

[New Hampster]

 

[drf255]

I'm in for $225 in mine. But I did the Super conversion.

 

[New Hampster]

I decided not to because the cylinder was still minty fresh. But the needle bearing was shot and the spring clips were shaving the grooves. The whole things was hours away from grenading. I probably caught it in the nick of time. Total luck.