050 051 075 076 Info Thread

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DaveLindsay said:
Hey guys,
I'm trying to remember how to set the low idle on my 076 as soon as I start it shes on for young and old even after warming it up it will not settle back down and stop the chain from spinning?
I think I may also need a new brake band. I think I might have stretched it when I put the clutch through the side cover.
Lastly has anybody ever put a decomp valve into a 076 and if so where there any problems with the install or things I might need to consider prior to getting one?
Thanks Guys
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Dave the more you richen the low jet the lower you can turn down the idle to stop chain spinning. When you put in your decomp pull out the long screw in that port area. Take a tiny phyllips head and push it through that screw hole into the cylinder to push out the carbon plug thats ususally blocking the hole from not being used. Make sure the piston is at bdc so you dont scratch it. When you put the decomp in make sure it has the tiny brass oring on the end. Install short screw to block the hole.
 
Dave, Lee said you might need something powder coated? Im back in the saddle here for a bit, long summer, long hours but its all good. Putting together an 051 right now. Things got 180 psi!!! looks like it fell off the scrap truck but they all cant be prom queens!!!
 
Hi RockFarmer, I wonder if I might ask a question on the Decompression valve. My 076 doesn't have one, but i sure would like one and it has the hole in the casing near the spark plug for it, but how difficult is it to fit one. Do you have to remove that casing over the spark plug and how involved would that be to do, is there already a place to screw the Decompression valve into, which they have just blanked off?
Thanks.
 
IMG_4257.JPG IMG_4258.JPG IMG_4259.JPG IMG_4260.JPG
Blue Monsoon said:
Hi RockFarmer, I wonder if I might ask a question on the Decompression valve. My 076 doesn't have one, but i sure would like one and it has the hole in the casing near the spark plug for it, but how difficult is it to fit one. Do you have to remove that casing over the spark plug and how involved would that be to do, is there already a place to screw the Decompression valve into, which they have just blanked off?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

As you can see the 076 decomp has the brass ring as does the plug, the 051 does not have the ring on it but it is pictured. That rear handle in the last pic also has both holes for either a 051 decomp or an 076 decomp. The large one on top is for the 051, the one off to the side above right screw is for the 076. Lots of the handles have different configurations and some have been switched out over the years if they were broken and may not be right. in any case a perfect saw has the rubber plugs closing off these holes to prevent air escape and more more of it flow over the cylinder.
 
So the first thing you have to do is move the front handle forward.Remove the two screws at the top of the front handle and then loosen the screw on the AV mount underneath the sprocket cover to allow the front handle to rotate forward. Then remove the two front screws holding the top cover bracket to the top AV mount. Then remove the screw on the AV mount rear handle and pick up the handle and kind of pull it up and over the air cleaner while removing the choke linkage in the throttle linkage. The Air filter base does not need to come off to do this. The 4 screws holding the fuel tank can be removed , the fuel line from the tank pickup. Its a good time to replace the impulse and fuel lines with the clear ethanol resistant tygon fuel line. I use 1/8"i.d. 1/4" o.d. Unscrew the five screws holding the muffler cover on and remove it. Then I pull the two rubber plugs on the top of the rear handle and remove the two screws holding the muffler to the jug. Then I remove the three screws holding the rear handle to the top of the jug and one in front of the lower muffler mounts and the rear handle should slide backwards. This exposes the cylinder jug. Now in your case there Will be a small screw on the side and a large number three or number four flat head screw or bolt on the top of the jug both of those need to be removed. Now the small screw will either be a long one or a short one as in my picture. The long one stops carbon buildup from forming in the port the short one is used for the decompression assembly. Unscrew the large straight head screw or bolt it may be torqued in well, in any case I always use a small impact driver to remove and two replace that plug Make sure you look for the tiny brass ring on the end of the plug or fish it out from the hole in the cylinder, you need that. Take your new decompression valve check and make sure that it works smoothly and clicks in and out make sure that you have that brass on ring at the end of it and screw it into the top of the cylinder, torque. Now you must replace the screw on the side with the small screw. This allows exhaust gases to pass through that tiny port and out the decopm valve so that you can pull it over easily before it fires. When it starts firing the explosion will close the valve on the decomp and it will be in the out position. Then you will have maximum compression. The 076 decomp valves are a better design then the 051 valves, I have pictured both. Most guys pull the decomp valves from the 051's and replace them with a plug. Reassemble in reverse order. It's a little tricky hooking up the choke in carb linkage you kind of have to engage the linkage in both the trigger and throttle butterfly and kind of rotate it in from the side once you get it it's a piece of cake to reassemble. I hope this makes sense! Good luck :) B
 
Thanks very much for that, I will give it a go, when the weather improves a bit, but that will give me time to order the Decompression valve.
 
You mention the bolt on the side being either a long or short one, if I'm fitting a Decompression valve and the side bolt was a long one, do I then need to replace it with a short one? I hope that makes sense..
 
Blue Monsoon said:
You mention the bolt on the side being either a long or short one, if I'm fitting a Decompression valve and the side bolt was a long one, do I then need to replace it with a short one? I hope that makes sense..
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YES! when you pull it out it may be either. If its stock, its long. I its short then you need to push the built up carbon out of the hole. Then yes you need the short screw with lock washer! :)
 
Can a long bolt be cut down and refitted, if yes, what thread length is the short bolt?
Thank you for all your help..
 
OK, good advice and just incase I have to put it back in, I'll see what I can find in the workshop instead of cutting.
Thanks.
 
Hey Rocky. Good to see the thread fired back up! Any chance you have a part number or source link to that Tygon clear fuel line you mentioned? Too much of the yellow 'Tygon' is crappy bootleg stuff and called Tygon just because it's yellow, and the legit Saint-Gobain Tygon F-4040-A does indeed break down from ethanol over time. I know of an EPA compliant LP1500 low permeation version with the inner membrane if that's the stuff you're talking about. Only issue there is the inner membrane separating from the inner wall of the tubing and, well...., clogging things up just a bit. I've seen it happen on their early yellow version of the LP, but have no experience with the clear stuff.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Hey Rocky. Good to see the thread fired back up! Any chance you have a part number or source link to that Tygon clear fuel line you mentioned? Too much of the yellow 'Tygon' is crappy bootleg stuff and called Tygon just because it's yellow, and the legit Saint-Gobain Tygon F-4040-A does indeed break down from ethanol over time. I know of an EPA compliant LP1500 low permeation version with the inner membrane if that's the stuff you're talking about. Only issue there is the inner membrane separating from the inner wall of the tubing and, well...., clogging things up just a bit. I've seen it happen on their early yellow version of the LP, but have no experience with the clear stuff.
Click to expand...
Hey Pogo!! Thanks, it's good to be back!! Honestly I had no idea of the complexity of the crappy fuel line. Let me look at where I got mine before I recommend something! Cheers! :)
 
I got it striped down and found the screw on the side of the cylinder to be a long one. But at the spark plug end their was no screw/plug at all, just some threads in the cooling vanes and a small port that connects to the hole that the long screw came out of. I take it that the long screw closed that port off and the other plug isn't needed?
 
Blue Monsoon said:
I got it striped down and found the screw on the side of the cylinder to be a long one. But at the spark plug end their was no screw/plug at all, just some threads in the cooling vanes and a small port that connects to the hole that the long screw came out of. I take it that the long screw closed that port off and the other plug isn't needed?
Click to expand...

Well it is needed! Must have fell out, lol! Never seen on without it! :)
 
Thanks for your help RF, new Decompression valve fitted, short screw in the side of the cylinder and all works great. What a difference the Decompression valve make, it's so much easier to start now and no dislocated shoulder!
 

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