050 051 075 076 Info Thread

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Blue Monsoon said:
Thanks for your help RF, new Decompression valve fitted, short screw in the side of the cylinder and all works great. What a difference the Decompression valve make, it's so much easier to start now and no dislocated shoulder!
Click to expand...

Excellent!!! Still boggled about the Tygon Pogo!!
 
IMG_4424.JPG Note there are two types of manual oil pumps. One on the left does not use the spring and ball. The one on the right does. The 4mm ball goes into the pump at the highest point with spring behind it. A dab of grease helps hold it in during assembly. This 4 mm ball is used in many other places on the saw as well.
 
I have a few of these that need to come apart and go back together - 051, 075, 076. Will have to go through this thread for tips.

Anyone have recommendations on good 075/076 aftermarket piston/jug assembles? I don't want to drop $400 on new Stihl.

If anyone has a spare used OEM jug or jug and piston, please pm me.

Thanks,

Scott
 
mgr said:
Saegenspezi sells a lot aftermarket cylinders, but you don't read any pos or negativ advice on German sites.

I'm looking on different market places but Stihl 075/076 cylinders are rare.

You can wait a time to find something or you take a shot and try one aftermarket one.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/076-piston-and-cylinder.294140/
Click to expand...

The Cross Performance kits look pretty good - http://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-075-076-TS760-cylinder-kit-p/cp30760.htm

Saegenspezi looks ok, price is better, but doesn't say anything about Nikasil like the Cross Performance kit does - http://www.ebay.de/itm/Zylinder-fur...079536?hash=item2c53d5c4f0:g:Tk0AAOSwcu5URgBW

Thanks,

Scott
 
I contact him. Let you know about shipment to me.

Regards
Manuel
 
mgr said:
Saegenspezi sells a lot aftermarket cylinders, but you don't read any pos or negativ advice on German sites.

I'm looking on different market places but Stihl 075/076 cylinders are rare.

You can wait a time to find something or you take a shot and try one aftermarket one.


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/076-piston-and-cylinder.294140/
Click to expand...
Good stuff!! I love those Dolmars, 3 153's???????? wohooooo!!


So anyway I went to put an 076 together for myself, something i can beat on and do some milling. I had one on the shelf and figured id get her together in a couple hours. I did and saw ran great for about 5 mins! Cold saw would run as soon as she was hot, dead in the water, not even a hint of firing. I tried everything with this saw. 2 carbs, 2 coils, replaced 3 main seals, replaced decomp sealing ring, all fuel lines, on and on, always same result. Finally after a week of tinkering I said hey i got to pressure test. When I did I found the oil lever adjuster hole leaking bad. Never seen this one before. Tried two different levers with good o rings still same result. Right side of the case is junk. Im hoping this is the problem, we'll see, :)
 
IMG_4756.JPG Probably, the case has a missing upper right muffler mount so it's not really worth putting any time into. The case also has factory permacoils to hold the cylinder rods, something I've never seen. Not sure if that's good or bad. I have plenty more cases so it's no biggie. Hopefully that was my problem. I told my girl if I can't get this thing going I'm going to throw a can of gas on it and we'll break out the hot dogs and have a BBQ!!!!

Here's a pic of my homemade pressure tester.
 
IMG_4758.JPG So I broke it all down and reassembled with an old style right hand case. Used some keyserts and permacoils to get everything together. Not too pretty but she runs good. Super'd it up while I was in there The real test will be a few tanks of fuel and maybe some milling. Looks like it's time to clean the bench, lol!!
 
My pile of 050/051 and 075/076 keeps growing. I have lost track of how many I have. I just have a hard time passing up a complete one when I see it for less than $100.

If I recall correctly, right now I have a clean 051 on the way from Germany. An 076 motor on the way from the U.S. And an 075 concrete saw coming from Germany that's not running. It will take me a while to go through all, clean, tag, and get back together.

What size TimeSerts and helicoils should I stock up on?
 
IMG_4760.JPG That's a nice collection! I too will not pass on a 1111 series saw (or 1115) for short money. The most common screw is the M5 x .8 They are everywhere. Most of the time you can count on the tank threads being stripped. Next will be the muffler gaurd screws and occasionally the muffler screws on the jug. Where there is very little meat I'll use a permacoil. They have more coils than a helicoil. If the is plenty of room to go big the keysert is a bulletproof option although they are pricey. The next size up is the M6 X 1.0 The other thing I've found absolutely necessary is digital calipers and the conversion chart that comes with them for sorting out drill sizes. I also have a plastic drill size gauge that is very handy. Another thing that is very handy is the drill press. Sometimes a helicoil is already in and damaged or a screw is snapped off. It is tough to drill a screw out with a hand drill but the drill press will chug right through it. With a damaged helicoil sometimes if you can get a pick on the end of it and bend it out you can grab it with needle nose pliers and pull on it working in a circular motion and pull they coil out of the hole. Fun stuff!
 
bulletpruf said:
What size TimeSerts and helicoils should I stock up on?
Click to expand...

M5 and M4 are the most prevalent. Then there is the M14 for the plug threads. Heli-Coil makes a special insert for plug threads that works very well and provides a nice, new mating surface for the plug washer/gasket to seat/seal. When plug threads are stripped or someone already tried another type of insert without success, I've found more often than not that the seat is usually gonna be hogged out or gouged to the extent that a normal helical insert won't provide a good seal for the plug anyway...., which for all intents and purposes would an air leak.

And if you haven't run across a good link for all the 1111 manuals I digitized and compiled some time ago, give the one below a try. Lots of good stuff that I was fortunate to obtain while rebuilding an 051 some time back. A friend bought what was left of an old Stihl dealership's inventory which included a ton of old manuals in very good condition.
Lucky for us there was quite an 1111 archive included!

https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...dHc3ZPT2JXaE1uX0Y1c215enBkNFJKNzg?usp=sharing
 
Rockfarmer said:
That's a nice collection! I too will not pass on a 1111 series saw (or 1115) for short money. The most common screw is the M5 x .8 They are everywhere. Most of the time you can count on the tank threads being stripped. Next will be the muffler gaurd screws and occasionally the muffler screws on the jug. Where there is very little meat I'll use a permacoil. They have more coils than a helicoil. If the is plenty of room to go big the keysert is a bulletproof option although they are pricey. The next size up is the M6 X 1.0 The other thing I've found absolutely necessary is digital calipers and the conversion chart that comes with them for sorting out drill sizes. I also have a plastic drill size gauge that is very handy. Another thing that is very handy is the drill press. Sometimes a helicoil is already in and damaged or a screw is snapped off. It is tough to drill a screw out with a hand drill but the drill press will chug right through it. With a damaged helicoil sometimes if you can get a pick on the end of it and bend it out you can grab it with needle nose pliers and pull on it working in a circular motion and pull they coil out of the hole. Fun stuff!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Rockfarmer. I'll see if I can source some permacoils. I have an assortment of helicoils and I also have one size of TimeSerts, too (I think M6 x 1.0). Also have a pretty good set of drill bits and the digital calipers. Have a large drill press (with vise) that's been gathering dust. Looks like I'll have an excuse to use it.

Scott
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
M5 and M4 are the most prevalent. Then there is the M14 for the plug threads. Heli-Coil makes a special insert for plug threads that works very well and provides a nice, new mating surface for the plug washer/gasket to seat/seal. When plug threads are stripped or someone already tried another type of insert without success, I've found more often than not that the seat is usually gonna be hogged out or gouged to the extent that a normal helical insert won't provide a good seal for the plug anyway...., which for all intents and purposes would an air leak.

And if you haven't run across a good link for all the 1111 manuals I digitized and compiled some time ago, give the one below a try. Lots of good stuff that I was fortunate to obtain while rebuilding an 051 some time back. A friend bought what was left of an old Stihl dealership's inventory which included a ton of old manuals in very good condition.
Lucky for us there was quite an 1111 archive included!

https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...dHc3ZPT2JXaE1uX0Y1c215enBkNFJKNzg?usp=sharing
Click to expand...

Thanks, Pogo! I'll definitely download the manuals!

Scott
 
Hi Guys,
Posted a while ago about a Nova 2 on an 051 and have now had it running in the saw for a while. Looks like it is ok.
Just for the record.

Also have a couple of these 1111 series here with average compression ~140s. Is there a common cause? or can it be a number of things?
I have new rings and a new decomp valve washer (both saws were missing the washer although didnt really seem to affect compression?)
Any feedback on most obvious things to test would help.
Rocky, the work you are doing looks flash mate. I might get there one day and flash up a couple of mine.

Cheers
Nathan
 
Thanks Nathan, getting ready to powdercoat a case for a 076 Super. Lots of work! As far as compression the only rings I really trust are Stihl and Caber. Im sure there are other good ones. The most critical thing is the ring gap. If you put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down a bit then measure the gap. Anything over .008 is too much and indicates worn ring or worn cylinder. I have an 090 that had a .020+ ring gap and still felt like it had good compression but ran like crap when warm. A new caber ring in a good cylinder is going to give me .004-.006 gap and the compression will be 160+++ Hope this helps, cheers! B
 

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