056mag2 project underway... part one of many

[jerrycmorrow]

got any idea about this not-so-secret sniping source?

 

[ZeroJunk]

I wish he had finished posting how he timed the MagII. I just finished rebuilding one and replacing the bad SEM igntion. Turned the replacement SEM fully advanced since that's where the old one was. But, I know somebody else had been in there. Seems to run OK. I have no clue how to time it correctly.

 

[jra1100]

Wow, this is a great thread. I just bought a 056 mag 2 and this will be very helpful. Have only read a bit so far, it's LONG, and very good. JR

 

[sawbones]

I wish he had finished posting how he timed the MagII. I just finished rebuilding one and replacing the bad SEM igntion. Turned the replacement SEM fully advanced since that's where the old one was. But, I know somebody else had been in there. Seems to run OK. I have no clue how to time it correctly.

Maybe he will tell us now.


Hey Andy, I picked up a mag 2 last week off CL and found the starter didnt work.

This is what it looked like by the time I got done trying to fix the starter. :msp_biggrin:

Ended up installing new OEM rings, starter and cup, full wrap bar, clutch drum, carb heat deflector,air filter, and the only new OEM ignition and flywheel I had in stock.

Made a test cut and found the clutch side seal leaked and replaced that yesterday. Sound good now.

Shown with a 24" windsor I got from Bob at Chain Saw +


Wish I had googled up this thread before I put it back together. Good to see ya posting.

ric

skyvalleysaw

 

[Lakeside53]

I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!

Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase.

If you have a new or unmarked crankcase, you insert a travel indicator in the plug hole to find TDC then 0.11 inches BTDC, and transfer the mark from the flywheel to the case. Then take off the flywheel and line up the module to the case marks.

View attachment 252091

Hey Sawbones - nice saw but you need the correct air filter box! lol...

 

[SkippyKtm]

I am bringing this thread back up because I hope it catches Lake's attention if he is still here or another 056 expert concerning the history of the ignition systems used in a 56.

Today I recieved an odd request to look a saw that didn't run right from a tree customer of mine. My jaw dropped when they came over with it. An 056 AV in mint and I mean mint condition that = 's pristine that it looks like came right from the dealer's shelf. Original Duromatic bar and probaly the same chain it came with.. The chain sprocket didn't even have a nick in it.

Anyway, the saw starts and runs but runs like the ignition is cutting out and sounds like it is out of time. Very similar to the way a saw would run if the lead wire was shorting out to the case or a point ignition saw would run with the points out of adjustment or had a bad condenser or the on-off switch wasn't working right.

I have tinkered with what little timing adjustment the module has as shown in this thread about halfway back around page 11. Didn't make much difference in the way it ran. I have also gone throught the carb making an adjustment mostly in the height of the metering lever. The setting was real high. That didn't work much either although the saw did run a little cleaner.

This saw is in way too good of shape for any of the usual old saw problems concerning a running ignition problem. This saw was so clean under the flywheel I could read Presto on the spark plug wire,don't see that too often.

My question is how reliable were these early capacitor dicharge modules???

This one is a Bosch with the orginal two piece flywheel just like the one Lake put in the 56 that is the theme of this rebuild thread. Did these modules have a history of premature failure?? I got a feeling the one I have is failing internally somehow.

Also, what does SEM stand for ??? I'll take a guess at Seimens Electronic Module.

I'd like to fix this saw for the lady but I know these modules are no longer available from Sthil and it would gut me to put a used module in such a nice looking saw.

AX or Larry

I love this thread...

I know this post is kind of old, but I couldn't resist answering this question.. Its stands for Svenska Elektromagneter a Swedish company that makes ignitions among other things:

History

 

[ZeroJunk]

I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!

Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase.

If you have a new or unmarked crankcase, you insert a travel indicator in the plug hole to find TDC then 0.11 inches BTDC, and transfer the mark from the flywheel to the case. Then take off the flywheel and line up the module to the case marks.

View attachment 252091

Hey Sawbones - nice saw but you need the correct air filter box! lol...

I muddled through it .

Great to see you posting again. The forum is better for it.

 

[SawTroll]

I muddled through it .

Great to see you posting again. The forum is better for it.

Yes, he was deeply missed! :biggrin:

 

[jtimmp]

have a 056 mag need some advise

I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
JJ

 

[jra1100]

I just got mine back from the shop. I had sheared the key on the starter recoil. It wouldn't start for obvious reasons, but all better now. It started when I broke the rope and shortened it a bit, and when I gave a big pull to start it the key sheared. Man would a decomp make this easier to start. JR

 

[ZeroJunk]

I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
JJ

An 056 Mag will bring close to $500 in good shape.They are still sought after. Doesn't look anything like an 064, so if you can post a photo we can tell you what it is pretty quick.

 

[hotshot]

I just got mine back from the shop. I had sheared the key on the starter recoil. It wouldn't start for obvious reasons, but all better now. It started when I broke the rope and shortened it a bit, and when I gave a big pull to start it the key sheared. Man would a decomp make this easier to start. JR

See my link to the dual dog conversion http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/146770.htm

 

[sefh3]

See my link to the dual dog conversion http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/146770.htm

I think that would be a great help for this series. Can you post that picuture again but a little bigger. It's hard for me to see the dual design.

 

[sawbones]

I am new to AS and was given a 056 mag with the 56mm piston. I took it apart thinking it was an 064(thats what i was told) Have been reading for about a week and am pretty sure its an 056 mag. ready to do a total restoration on this saw. i live in Bellevue, WA and could use some advice.(would like to know if its worth it or not)Lakeside53 is close by does he have a shop? I am a finish carpenter of 30 yrs and not a bad wrench,so i have skills. Your advise would be appreciated.
JJ

If you do have an 056 for sure you might head up to Kenmore to Chain saws plus on the 522 Lake City way.

Bob is an old school stihl guy and still works on them but you should know that parts are hard to find.

I think he is also the guy that taught lakeside everything he knows. :hmm3grin2orange:

If your ever headed out towards Hwy 2 east of monroe look me up.


ric

 

[3000 FPS]

I leave ONE thing for you guys to figure out and 3 years later you still ask the question!

Stretching my aging memory back a few years..... you time it by lining up the marks on the module and crankcase.

If you have a new or unmarked crankcase, you insert a travel indicator in the plug hole to find TDC then 0.11 inches BTDC, and transfer the mark from the flywheel to the case. Then take off the flywheel and line up the module to the case marks.

Talking about figuring things out did you ever find anyone who knew anything about welding on a piece of magnesium. That was some pretty awful welding I saw in your old pics from back then.

I actually felt bad for you and then realized how old the thread was. I was thinking of offering my services.

 

[backwoodsman42]

I know this is an old thread but I need to fix a 056 av. It has a dead sem coil but 200$ is awful steep.
Does the husqvarna 2100 coil fit and work on the 056?

 

[ZeroJunk]

I know this is an old thread but I need to fix a 056 av. It has a dead sem coil but 200$ is awful steep.
Does the husqvarna 2100 coil fit and work on the 056?

Not trying to make you mad but are you sure it is a SEM ? Shouldn't be unless somebody has already changed it or it is a Mag.

 

[backwoodsman42]

It has SEM stamped right on it.
No worries. I'm just trying to get the old brute running. It does have mag 2 on the name plate. It was just really faded

 

[farmer steve]

bump

 

[ZeroJunk]

The 2100 coil should work. I don't remember whether the spark plug wire screws in to those or not, but you will likely have to swap the wires.