064 repair project

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Use an air compressor to blow all the dust,dirt, and crud out. When you go to take the carb off you'll want to remove the black handle cover and unhook the throttle linkage from the trigger. It's much easier to unhook the linkage at that end instead of trying to get it off the carb itself.
Oh, um, one question before I call it a night....

When you unhook the linkage (from handle first) do you think it's easier with the choke on full, or half choke or in the off position or whatever?
 
Everything will stay together better when you take the black cover off better if the choke is on so you can see how it goes back together. When you put it back together it's much easier when the trigger is in the fully choked/locked position also.
 
Everything will stay together better when you take the black cover off better if the choke is on so you can see how it goes back together. When you put it back together it's much easier when the trigger is in the fully choked/locked position also.
Cool, thanks - yeah that's the sort of tip I was after :)
 
Ok just a post to show where I'm at... the carb box and handle inside is cleaned up nice...

[photo="medium"]3306[/photo]

and the carb, which claims to be a walbro, and says WJ-48 (not WJ-65 like the IPL says) is off:

[photo="medium"]3305[/photo] [photo="medium"]3303[/photo]
and...

[photo="medium"]3302[/photo] [photo="medium"]3304[/photo]
the carb actually turned out to be very cruddy inside (not surprising considering what the inside of the tank was like) and this could be one of the it's first cleans??? I took out the H + L screws and squirted and blew (browny carb cleaner juice initially) and took out the needle and strainer etc. Strainer also had a lot of brown dust on it. Finally got all the old gasket off and it's nearly back together now with new diaphragms and stuff.

I might see how easy it is to blank off the manifold face at the intake and do a vacuum test by plugging in through the impulse stub I can see in the carb box, tomorrow. If anyone has advice to how they've done this before on a 064 I'd love to hear your way....
 
I've used piece of rubber inner tube, gorilla tape, or linoleum with success between the carb and manifold.
 
I've used piece of rubber inner tube, gorilla tape, or linoleum with success between the carb and manifold.
ok... that sounds pretty easy...

where did you plug your gauge/mityvac to...

I'd planned to use the impulse stub underneath the carb...
 
You can do that. I have a threaded plumbing part that I screw into the plug hole and hook up to that. The thread size is a little smaller and I cover the threads in a good layer of Teflon tape.
 
You can do that, I have a threaded plumbing part that I screw into the plug hole and hook up to that. The thread size is a little smaller and I cover the threads in a good layer of Teflon tape.

ok thanks man... looks like I'm on the right track. I'll just need to make up a plate to block off the intake - since I can't use the carb - as I'll need to use the impulse stub right there.
 
You can actually use the carb and push the rubber stub to the side.
Really? And do you think that the stub won't be too twisted to stop me plugging my mityvac in here - and still get good enough vacuum signal for me to do the test?
 
I don't know how the mighty vacs tubing and connections work, but I'm pretty sure that's how I did it on the last 064 I worked on.
 
I don't know how the mighty vacs tubing and connections work, but I'm pretty sure that's how I did it on the last 064 I worked on.
Yeah, maybe. It's night-time here at the moment and pretty cold :cold: so I'll take another look tomorrow to get a better idea.

Thanks for your ideas/help.

Cheers,

Matt
 
I've a couple of 064 questions - wondered if anyone could help:

1. my service manual quite often states a difference from a particular machine number, e.g. "carburettor boxes from machine number X 17 861 749 are screwed together instead of welded" etc. So where do I see this machine number on my saw? Or is it just something which the original owner had in their purchasing paperwork (long gone in my case then) ??

2. my 064 ipl suggests - in a couple of places that the carb model is "WJ-65". But the carb I took off my saw has a designation "WJ-48" stamped on it. Given the history of my saw - I'm fairly sure that that carb was on the saw from day one. I can find some note in the manual (page 45) to the effect that to upgrade to digital ignition (think mine has that) you need a different carb and also on page 55 there's reference to a WJ-10 A carb. I'm not massively bothered, but I just wondered if the difference meant anything. I guess they are just part run numbering changes....
 
There were a few different carbs they used, the bing 49, WJ 6A, WJ 67 just to name a few.
Nothing wrong with the WJ 48 that you have, it's a very common carb that they used. It also has a removeable H jet.
 
Hi Matt, the serial number should be stamped into the crankcase somewhere. The location varies, and I'm not familiar with the 064, but the position I've marked on the image of your saw is one of the common ones.
serial%20Capture.jpg
 
There were a few different carbs they used, the bing 49, WJ 6A, WJ 67 just to name a few.
Nothing wrong with the WJ 48 that you have, it's a very common carb that they used. It also has a removeable H jet.
Thanks Deets066! I'll know more when I see if it's really got digi ignition too... (think it has!)
cheers
 
Hi Matt, the serial number should be stamped into the crankcase somewhere. The location varies, and I'm not familiar with the 064, but the position I've marked on the image of your saw is one of the common ones.
serial%20Capture.jpg
thanks Dan...

I've just nipped back in from garage! I'll take a look in a bit... I'm in process of preparing to do leak tests etc..

Matt
 
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