064 repair project

[MattG]

I've been checking out my work again today and I still can't get any +/- reading on my gauge. I ended up getting the flywheel off (I'm not at all proud of the method used - but it's off now with minimal issues).

I used the soapy water method and I can't see any bubbles from the seals, muffler, plug, and at my intake block off. That was just using my mityvac's pressure though. I'm wondering if I should remove the sound insulation from my air compressor so that I can access the regulator and turn it really low (say 5 psi) then just keep spraying the soap.

The only stuff that I can't see really good and therefore get the soap on - is the area near the manifold and the cylinder and the impulse hose. The manifold was on quite loose - I managed to put 10+ extra turns on the screw on the clamp... but this didn't fix my pressure loss

(I'm actually most suspicious of the impulse hose and manifold - cos they are the areas I can't see tooj good)

This saw is certainly a challenge - and I guess that's a good thing! keeps me busy!!!

So I think I'm gonna pull off the carb box and other things - perhaps that will get me closer to the source of mischief...

Matt

 

[Whiskers]

your quest will be easier if you take the whole rear handle off. You can block off the intake with the hanfle off by putting tape or plastic over the intake and putting the manifold over it. Is the impulse hose hooked to the cylinder, if not the air will never make it to the case.

 

[MattG]

your quest will be easier if you take the whole rear handle off. Is the impulse hose hooked to the cylinder, if not the air will never make it to the case.

yeah, I think you're right there... I think I'll stew on it for a day or two...

(I'll check that hose out then...)

Will let you guys know what's happening when I'm back on the case

 

[MattG]

Hey Whiskers (or anybody else!!)

So although for my 064 the carb box is screwed not welded to the rear handle/tank housing - is it actually easier just to remove the whole handle/housing as one big lump (rather than just the carb box) ???

Now I read the manual - I'm guessing that it is...

That is, this way you can leave the fuel line still in tank, and the ground+short circ wires still in the box...

Can someone confirm?

thanks again
Matt

 

[Whiskers]

Yeah, take the tank off. It's just a few screws and unhook the ignition wiring. Then you can see all around the crankcase.

 

[jeff taswelder]

Looking good so far

 

[MattG]

Looking good so far

We're getting somewhere - but it certainly is a challenge!!

 

[MattG]

Any tips or advice to get the handle housing off or is all pretty idiot proof?

As I'm not in my garage right now - I'm just looking at some earlier pics....

For example does the white plug thing (just below handle) need prying out to find a hidden screw? Is that just a small screwdriver job to lever it out?

[photo="medium"]3250[/photo]

and with the wires... I see the ground is just a spade connector - looks easy,

[photo="medium"]3345[/photo]

but the short circuit wire - is that a kind of rod pressed into a sleeve - again just a case of a side ways push with a small screwdriver? Then I guess you use something blunt to persuade the wires out the housing (presumably after moving the ht lead outta way)...

I guess some of these questions are pretty basic... but I just wanted to get this bit done painlessly so that I can concentrate on main job of finding the leak.

thanks again
Matt

 

[Whiskers]

The screws are under the white caps, the ground wire just pushed out.

 

[MattG]

The screws are under the white caps, the ground wire just pushed out.

thanks - just checking for any gotchas

 

[Whiskers]

Nope, pop the covers off and take the screws out. You'll want to take the top handle off I guess.

 

[MattG]

Well, the project is definitely now at the "will it ever work again?" stage.....

[photo=medium]3364[/photo]
[photo=medium]3366[/photo]

 

[Whiskers]

And? Did you pressure test the thing or what? It's not a newborn baby, Your not going to hurt it, you can always start a thread on how to put it back together!

 

[MattG]

And? Did you pressure test the thing or what? It's not a newborn baby, Your not going to hurt it, you can always start a thread on how to put it back together!

Don't worry I was being a little bit melodramatic!

(I've so many memories when I was 30 years younger of getting to that same stage with motorbikes!)

I don't know about the pressure/air-tightness yet - those pix is just what I got to, last night. I'm gonna clean off the residual crud, that you can't see, before I test it. I was a bit naughty when I separated the housing - I ended up stretching the impulse hose a lot before I figured out how/where to pry it. I do have a replacement though. I might pick yer brain a bit more about how you swap that out - but I guess it's just a case of slowly easing it through from the back of carb box.

Anyway the plan is now...

1. clean some more tonight/tomorrow
2. re press/vac test it

I've got to get back to my day job now

later
Matt

 

[fin460]

You will definitely find your leak now.

If you are still having trouble, try setting the saw in a tub of soapy water since you have it tore down this far.

 

[MattG]

You will definitely find your leak now.

If you are still having trouble, try setting the saw in a tub of soapy water since you have it tore down this far.

I'm just hoping that my previous intake block off method was wrong.... and that my engine's all good... find out soon

 

[fin460]

I'm sure you have, but check the fitting connections coming out of your pressure tester.

I rebuilt a 044 a while back and I was checking for leaks when I hooked everything up and my heart sank when I found it was holding no pressure at all. Turns out I was bumping the bleed valve on the mittyvac with my clumsy fingers. turns out it was all good!

 

[bigbadbob]

I am doing the same saw, had a bear of a time sealing it up for vac test, found my pto side seal was gone, hard as a rock, so am replacing both, used 5 psi of air to find it..
Keep picking away you will get yet!!!
BBB

 

[MattG]

I am doing the same saw, had a bear of a time sealing it up for vac test, found my pto side seal was gone, hard as a rock, so am replacing both, used 5 psi of air to find it..
Keep picking away you will get yet!!!
BBB

Hi BigBadBob,

Good to know that you're doing the same saw! I got the saw really clean last night (you may as well when you got it so far stripped). I planning on having another go at the tests later today I think.
Still wondering exactly what my next plan to seal the intake is. I may use tape, tyre tube rubber - I might even use some kids party balloons!

So how are you pulling your seals out bigbadboy? the proper tool or with picks/screwdrivers/pliers etc? On my flywheel side (as well as there only being a tiny amount of seal to grab) the seal is down in a pit because of the generator mounting. It looks nasty to get to.

Anyway, when I get my other jobs done today, I'll get back to the saw, and let you know what happened....

 

[MattG]

I'm sure you have, but check the fitting connections coming out of your pressure tester.

I rebuilt a 044 a while back and I was checking for leaks when I hooked everything up and my heart sank when I found it was holding no pressure at all. Turns out I was bumping the bleed valve on the mittyvac with my clumsy fingers. turns out it was all good!

Hey fin640
yeah agree - that release valve is easy to knock!