066 rebuild (locked up)

[mkinslow]

Good morning guys. I have an 066 in my shop for a customer that is locked up tight. Said he started it made half a cut throu and she shut down. Went to restart but would not turn over at all. IV not torn down completely yet but have taken muffler off and it looks fine on that side. Don't know what intake side looks like. Removed plug and found metal that stuck to a magnet. He wants to rebuild so my question is what p/c would y'all recommend. Aftermarket of course. Stihl is ridiculous on they're prices. But now he wants one with the decomp button if at all possible. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Ozhoo]

I wouldn't decide on anything till I pulled the cylinder. Hopefully it can be saved and you just drop in a oem or meteor slug. I would find a used oem jug if I had to but if pressed for an aftermarket would get an NWP.

Get that jug pulled and post up some pictures.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Metal means problems... Especially ferrous (iron)... Bottom end ok? Check for bearing play first. Flywheel impeded by anything? Id look through intake, then pull jug as there's a chance that a ring hung or bearings grenaded.
If cylinder cant be saved (search on here), then look for OEM cylinder first.

 

[alexcagle]

Meteor, then Hyway.
I've had very good luck with both.
HL Supply is a good source. Very reputable source imo.
*

 

[blsnelling]

Used OEM and a new OEM piston. But like already mentioned, you need to find out what happened first. You may need a lot more than just a topend.

 

[spindrift7mm]

Sounds like a bearing issue. I'd pull the cylinder first and remove all debris as any metal in the cylinder can damage the plating in just a few strokes. The cyl can be reinstalled if needed to pull clutch or flywheel ( I'd remove rings first ). I'd split it and do seals/brgs. As far as the cyl goes OEM is best. Most aftermarket cyl require machine work to correct excessive squish and port timing issues. On work saws I prefer the best parts available. Ken

 

[cus_deluxe]

Everybody else has it covered well, im just here for pics of the carnage

 

[jackjcc]

Get a farmtec, dirt cheap and a lot of people have had great results. Or a hyway kit.


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[mkinslow]

I'll post up pics asap when I get time to pull it all apart. Other things going on around here still for the holidays. I know y'all wanna see what's going on as do I.

 

[mkinslow]

Alright boys made a little progress this afternoon. Can't pull cylinder because I've misplaced my T26 driver somehow. But I did get some pics of p/c and pieces I found with magnet on top of piston. I was able to turn crank a little with a 1/4 drive rachet and socket. I'm thinking that something in the bottom end has give up the ghost

 

[earlthegoat2]

Hmmmmm, that rust on the rings looks pretty normal to me.

Has this saw set for a while? All that oxidation on the piston leads me to believe there was very little run time between being stored for a long time and present.

 

[mkinslow]

Moisture from cleaning cause rust on rings. This saw was very nasty when I got it so I did a lot of cleaning before I started disassembly. Saw was running last weekend when it locked up on owner.

 

[An-En]

Just wander how did you clean it? Those few spots of red rust sure look like something fresh, but that oxidation on the piston look old. It takes a while for aluminum to get oxidized like that. I'd say that thing was sitting quite a bit and didn't run for long after that.

 

[Mad Professor]

Loosen up your clutch and flywheel before you pull the cylinder. I think you will be splitting the cases to fix it.

 

[An-En]

Good advice

 

[mkinslow]

Purple power and air. Two days ago.

 

[mkinslow]

I'm thinking it eat the the crank bearings. Will probably replace all bearings and seals but I believe p/c will be fine.

 

[mkinslow]

What's the best source for bearings and seals for this 066 guys. Trying to get customer a cost list going. Thanks

 

[blsnelling]

I would stick with OEM. Prices have come way down on a lot of those items.

 

[mkinslow]

Update (kinda). I've finally gotten back to saw Very busy at my main job. I have saw mostly broken down But can't get dang clutch to loosen before I remove cylinder. But I did take a peak through intake and see that parts of the bearing cage look as though they're sticking up around connecting rod ( yeah I know threads are worthless without pics but can't get one of this yet). Does this mean a possible new crank. What does yalls experience tell you. I've never seen it before.