2 large pecan logs...what to do?

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another arborsiter suggested i repost the below from the 101 forum to here. as i say below, this is all new to me and if you were in my shoes, what would you guys do?

Hi folks, I've lurked around here for a little while and sending out my first sos. The (extended) family farm is clearing a waterway which included a plan to bulldoze/burn some trees. i jumped on the opportunity to "save" them but am clueless what to do with them. The smaller of the two is around 30" dbh and has its first limb around 10'. The second has a 48" diameter at the cut line and the crotch starts at 11'. no rot in either but could be some spalting on the big one from what i can see at the base. Both trees were straight, grew on flat ground, but were also alone in the middle of a field.

I'm new to wood working (outside of a few osage longbows) and am basically saving this wood for future projects. What would you do with these? live edge bar top? table? a couple slabs and the rest 4/4? A portable mill is coming next month. what thicknesses do you suggest for "general future projects"? (scraps are getting saved for the smokehouse)

attached is the larger of the two.
 

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Great that you're salvaging the trees for lumber! First, find out what the capabilities of the portable sawmill are. What diameter the mill can handle, and the width of slabs the mill can cut. He may need to quarter the larger one with a chain saw just to get it on the mill. Even at that, you'll get some nice wide slabs that you could cut 2-1/2" thick, and the rest 1-1/4" thick. I'd do pretty much the same with the smaller log, though hopefully you'll get three wide, thick slabs with natural edges out of the center. Avoid the temptation to cut a lot of different thicknesses, or stacking to dry the lumber will be a real headache. One thing to consider is that bar tops and counter tops cannot be easily moved. If the lumber will go to family members not on the farm that may move from time to time, tables, chairs, and other furniture-- even toys-- may be the most practical. I'm sure you'll get other ideas, but hopefully this will get things started. Last word-- take photos & video of the cutting, milling, and building process. They may be valued years from now. Good luck!
 
good thoughts, dave. thanks. i feel like a kid on christmas with this project! a bar top and 10' table would be great for me and future house (breaking ground later this year) but i would definitely like to send some with the next couple generations. 10/4 and 5/4 may be the way to go.

i've heard that portable mill guys like to "square off" the logs....but thats not necessary right? i'd like to have live edges on everything if possible and then square up as necessary.

also, i've heard the eye (dead center) of the heart wood will crack/split. how far off of this should i have the slabs cut? i assume i should not have a slab taken from center?
 
i've heard that portable mill guys like to "square off" the logs....but thats not necessary right? i'd like to have live edges on everything if possible and then square up as necessary.

also, i've heard the eye (dead center) of the heart wood will crack/split. how far off of this should i have the slabs cut? i assume i should not have a slab taken from center?

Nice log ! be aware its addictive and am not sure if there is a cure :crazy2:

This should give you an idea of what can come out apart from the slabs with live edges, the center (pith) is a separate cut/s
lumber_from_log_lg.jpg

When slabbing the pith can be included in the center of a board or cut on either side, you have to watch out for cupping of slabs. Some slabs from the middle of a log can be cut lengthways through the center if they cup.

Lumbering_techniques.jpg Crown.JPG
 
i've heard that portable mill guys like to "square off" the logs....but thats not necessary right? i'd like to have live edges on everything if possible and then square up as necessary.
Most bandmill guys(not all) do like to square up a log. But logs the size of yours wont fit most mills. A few weeks ago I had some stuff milled on a LT45 and the widest board it could make was around 23.5 inches. I'm assuming you are not friends with the sawyer. Usually your paying him for his time or by the board foot and he's wanting to mill it up and get on his way. With that kinda pressure bad decisions can be made. I'd really think it through. Any cuts thats need to be made could be made ahead of when the mill shows up. I know I've been rushed in the past and hate being in that situation. I'd love to see pictures. I hope you end up with what your expecting. Cheers:cheers:
 
Pictures please.... But yeah it is very unlikely a mill can handle 48" slabbing cuts so check on your max cut size.


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps
 
I have found one guy (not a friend) that would travel to the site and cut for me. 25 cents a board foot. he said that 48" is about the max his equipment can handle. i should end up with slabs with a bowtie shape as the top of the log has a nice crotch to it (i'm in my 30's and that sentence still made me chuckle).

I'm headed back Saturday to take the limbs off, seal the ends (with leftover latex paint), and reconsider the whole thing with a more critical eye. We actually dropped 4 trees, 2 of which surprised us with varying amount of heart rot. maybe there are some cool uses in those trees too if i can get my thinking outside the box. I'll be sure to put up more pics.
 
Have you thought about where and how you are going to dry the boards once, the sawmill drives away? Do you have stickers? A flat surface, etc. There are plenty of threads here and elsewhere on the web on drying wood (a very important part of the process of getting "logs to lumber"). Take lots of photos and enjoy the journey!
 
thanks for looking out for the newbie pheas. There is a local kiln i am buying stickers from and parents have some barn space on a slab that i can use. In addition to concrete blocks on top, i was thinking about putting a few wide ratchet straps over the pile and cranking them down every so often to reduce twist.
 
Honestly, the weight of the slabs will be plenty to keep them straight (in my opinion). But that is some great looking potential in that pecan!


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps
 
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