3-point logging winch info needed

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I was looking at the differences between the Norse and the Farmi self-releasing snatch blocks. The Farmi is designed to be operated so that the open side of the pulley (the side with the release gate) is facing down towards the ground during pulls. The Norse, on the other hand, is designed to be operated with the open side facing up. The Farmi comes with a nylon strap attached to it to secure it to a tree. The Norse is set up for use with a choker chain although a nylon sling could be used with it also. The Farmi model is around $70 more than the Norse.

I noticed today that Hud Son has increased the price of the 501 Farmi by $300.:mad: The Norse 4500 is still the same price at Labonville (who knows how long?):confused:

Any more opinions or experiences on 3-point logging winches? I have been pretty busy the past 6 weeks and seeing price increases as I am getting ready to buy is not making me a happy camper.

Once again, thank you for your advice and comments.

Vince :cheers:
 
matching pto HP to winch

case 5230 90 hp and farmi 501 winch, pullin' whole beech trees, 20-24" at the butt, logs 12-24' long

Newbie here. I got a stronger tractor than needed and am finding high HP gearbox implements are much more expensive. But I am told to match the implement to the Pto Hp otherwise I will blow the implement gearbox. Above I see woodfarmers 90Hp tractor coupled to the JL501 which specs as Max. 60 HP. Question is where will I get into trouble if I cheap out and find a smaller [used] winch than my tractor will drive? I think the JL501 will winch anything I desire and the tractor has no issues hauling anything behind it. I have about 80 Pto Hp on a TK100 crawler. If I run at low rpm to reduce Hp then I presume my winch speeds will be super slow? Am running into same issues on Bush Hog type mower implements. 80Hp puts me into an entirely different category and cost. I don't see many used Farmi's as it is and I definitely haven't seen any JL60's in the West.
Please advise of any workarounds such as slip clutch shear pin solution? Is there such a thing as a gearbox reducer?
/Rick
 
this is just dead reckoning advice, take it as is, but 90 hp winch is for 90 hp winching, If you don't plan on doing any 90hp winching it "should" be ok the trouble happens when you push a 60hp tool to 90h in other words be careful, also check the specs on machine size gear ratio's etc could be the only difference is wire size, bigger wire holds more weight, also pto power is largely dependent on pto speed, most newer tractors have 2-3 speeds on the pto 540, 1080, 2160rpms (roughly) the most power being in the 540 range, so a guy could half the power by running at the 1080 setting and just running the tractor at an idle good luck
 
I considered trying to run a 540 rpm implement at 1000 rpm but was advised against it cuz the implement is designed to rotate at certain speeds. 1000 rpm implements have a different gear ratio inside them. I am a novice so felt I should comply. Changing pto speed on my tractor also involves unbolting and (buying and) changing pto gears and shaft so could be a hassle if swapping between implements frequently. But in the case of the winch it seems there are already slip clutches built in to solve overstress between the cable and the winch, so overdriving the gearbox might not be an issue? Then again, there is likely a reason why they advertise a max 60 Hp :).
I guess I should just be happy I have enough power to drive a JL601 or similar and just need to find one affordable enough and spend the $$$. I guess it could pay for itself in ~35 cords?
 
I have a small kubota tractor that I set up with a Farmi JL290 winch (smallest one they make ). I have been amazed at what it will pull considering how small my tractor is. I don't think you will be disappointed with the JL501. It has a rated pulling of over 11,000 LBS. My 290is rated at 6,600 LBS.
One bit of advice,...go slow and careful when pulling your first logs. You can get in a heap of trouble real fast. You will understand this when you start pulling in logs. I also highly reccomend getting a Snatch Block set up....preferably a self release one, but they are $$$ but they are so worth it
 
OP ..... I have been using my new winch for about three months now, all I can sayis wow.
I dont know how I got along without one. HUGE time saver, no reason to leave logging road/trail. Just position yourself to get a straight pull, and bring in the log.

My set up consists on a Wallenstein FX90, a Mahindra 5500 4wd around 55hp.
I was set on getting a Farmi 501, but the local dealer gave me the runaround. I stumbled on the wallenstein at a different dealer and could not be happier.
The farmi was about $5000 out the door, The FX90 was $4000 out the door with three choker chains.
The FX90 also comes with the screen standard, and YES its nice to have. Sometimes I will winch from the tractor seat and you are right in the line of fire if that cable breaks. The screen is built stout enough that I feel safe behind it.

As far as snatch blocks go, I use a cheap 10,000lb to get around obstacles and it works fine. I have built my first prototype self releasing snatch block and sofar its woorking good. Like most things I have built it "over built" .......very heavy.
The self release are nice because they do save a trip to the obstacal, to un hook a regular snatch block so you can finish your pull. But after the log has cleared the obstacle and is at the tractor you still have to go get the self release off the tree.

I can get some pics tomarrow, I just brought tractor home today.

Hope some of this rambling was some help, any specific questions let me know.

Brian


Edit.... specs the

FX90 9000lbs pull 30-80 pto hp weighs in at 800lbs

Farmi 501 11000lbs pull 35- pto hp 630lbs
 
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I am currently trying to figure out how incorporate an extension to the top pulley on my tractor winch, so it could be used as a psuedo highlead system from wherever the tractor could get to (and has suitable anchor points). No longer being restricted to where suitable trees are for mounting blocks to get the lift needed.

Also, what are you tractor winch people using, if you don't have a second drum, to haul back the cable to the choker rat? I've got a windscreen wiper motor and am thinking of mating it to a geared fencing tape spool and hanging it and a battery off a warratah stake so it can be easily moved around. It doesn't get much load on it, but I don't know if it will handle enough load. No way can I afford a CS or portable capstan winch.
 
Newbie here. I got a stronger tractor than needed and am finding high HP gearbox implements are much more expensive. But I am told to match the implement to the Pto Hp otherwise I will blow the implement gearbox. Above I see woodfarmers 90Hp tractor coupled to the JL501 which specs as Max. 60 HP. Question is where will I get into trouble if I cheap out and find a smaller [used] winch than my tractor will drive? I think the JL501 will winch anything I desire and the tractor has no issues hauling anything behind it. I have about 80 Pto Hp on a TK100 crawler. If I run at low rpm to reduce Hp then I presume my winch speeds will be super slow? Am running into same issues on Bush Hog type mower implements. 80Hp puts me into an entirely different category and cost. I don't see many used Farmi's as it is and I definitely haven't seen any JL60's in the West.
Please advise of any workarounds such as slip clutch shear pin solution? Is there such a thing as a gearbox reducer?
/Rick
I originally had this on an 80 hp tractor, still overrated for the winch specs, however I have had the winch for 12 years, pulled some very heavy hitches and never had a problem
 
I've been toying with buying a winch for a few years now. However this summer I bought a much larger farm. And I have a couple sugarbushes that I need to remove non maples from. So I think I'm finally ready to drop the hammer. Does anyone have any recommendations between a Fransgard V4000 and a Norse 350? The price is 50 dollars different between Labonville for the Norse and one of my local dealers for the Fransgard. I'm wondering how well the hinged plate of the Norse works in the real world. My woodlot was logged about 5 years ago and there are some skidder holes left, I was thinking the extra clearance would help, but would this be an issue at all if the 3point hitch is raised? I havent been able to find a farmi dealer around here, but I assume they are a bit more money? Pretty sure I'm giving up on finding a screaming deal on a used winch they just don't seem to exist.
 
Some folks here seem confused about the relationship between power and torque. Torque = Power/rpm. It is torque that breaks things, not power. So, running the PTO slower by reducing engine rpm will slow winch line speed, but it may not reduce torque, depending on the engine torque curve. Using a lower PTO speed at the same engine rpm will increase torque. I was unaware that winches had gearboxes. Most I have seen used hydraulic or chain drive. Normally, the cable will break before any of the drive train components will.
 
Ground clearance is a problem and the hinged plate can save you from the fun of getting stuck on the winch, Norse/Igland is considered a more heavy duty line of winches than Fransgaard, at least in a historical pers
 
Hello.

I have decided that adding a 3-point logging winch to my L5030 Kubota would help make my life a bit easier. The four brands I have seen on line are Farmi, Fransgard, Norse, and Tajfun. No one locally carries any of them so I would have to have one trucked in. I have been trying to educate myself as to what brand to buy, or at the very least what to stay away from. Most of my property is pretty steep and it is rather uncomfortable operating a tractor on. My tractor is rated 42.5 hp at the pto and has a fel. Your experiences and suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I have a Farmi winch on a Kubota L4150 4wd. I've used it for over 20 years now, no problems. I only wish I had bought the next larger model. (trees get bigger) Don't bother with a self releasing snatch block. You can always get one of those if you find you might need one. A regular snatch block is handy, thought. And if you can afford it, buy the remote control, saves a lot of walking back & forth.
 
Did u really dredge up a 3 year old thread just to state that people are wrong? Your first post also. I smell a troll
Not a troll, but one who realizes that many people do not understand the relationship between power, speed and torque.
 
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