3120XP or MS880?

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DeanBrown3D

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Hello all, I'm considering one of these two (3120XP or MS880), their specs are almost identical. I havent absolutely decided on buying one of them yet, and if I do I wanted to get soom feedback on these. I'm leaning to the Stihl from the comments I've had from people with the husky.

Comments welcome.

Thanks

Dean
 
Usually with nearly identitcal specs, a significant $$ investment in either, and all else being equal it often comes down to local dealer support, and which one "feels" better in your hand.

Sorry to be on the fence, but I've never ran a 3120, and only ran an 880 a couple of times breifly.

Jeff
 
I perfer the 880, BUT YOU CAN FIND A 3120 nib on ebay for $1k. Around here the 880 is $1400.

Hope thy are cheaper there.

Fred
 
i run all husky's except for the ms 200's and an 880. for a work saw the ms880 is the better saw. the 880 has a high speed jet on the carb and you can get a coil with out a rev limiter. the 3120 are also known for bottem end problems. this has been asked may times before, do a search.
 
Crofter said:
kf_tree, is the bottom end problem on the bigger Huskys still around or has it been cured?

as far as i know the cure is an even lower rev coil, the new ones have a rev limit of 10,000
 
kf_tree said:
as far as i know the cure is an even lower rev coil, the new ones have a rev limit of 10,000

I believe it's lower than that by feel, but others know better. For 50% more money the 880 is a tough buy for someone who has never run either. Unlike us.;)

Fred
 
3120’s a beast! Very reliable, plenty power, it’s heavy though. I use 36” and 42” .404 pitch bars for oak wood.
I wish it could reliably rev higher. Mines a ’02 model so I’m guessing the limiter kicks in somewhere around 10,000 rpms.

Has anyone had reliability issues doing a muffler mod and running a 395 coil?
 
DeanBrown3D said:
Yes indeed, I am close to a Stihl dealer (Grovers Mill Farm, NJ) and they are great.

Seen any Martians lately? Sorry, I coudn't resist. I actually know the place quite well. My father lived a stone's throw away for many years.
 
I can't compare the 3120, but I do have a lot of working knowledge of the insides of 088/880... Stihl has some bearing problems on the 088 (clutch side). Their solution was to put a steel sleeve in the mag casing to support the bearing, and to issue a revised "special fit' bearing. No offical answer from Stihl as to why, but it appears that long bars and tight chains put too much stress on the clutch side bearing and it beat out the housing. If you are looking at used, check the serial number and make sure it is the newer version 154 603 854... They also revised the WOT setting from 12,000 to 11,500.

Overall, a nice mature and solid saw with some incremental improvements over the 084 and earlier 088.
 
Jeff:

If you do, I have all the special tools... I just spent two hours assembling my crankcase with a new crank bearings, crank etc... Hmmm.. Found out why you need the $1.45 "assembly sleeve"... (hey, I'm a pro - I can use a socket...sure...) messed up a real nice $19 oil seal... Wish I'd learned it on a customer saw :)

Also found you you can't insert the clutch side bearing in the newer casings without a press, even when the casing is baked for 20 minutes at 302F... Steel doesn't expand like Mag. Even at 302F, the casing is still 1 thou inch less than the bearing... Made a custom backing plate to support the casing while in the press and used the factory bearing press block (cheap). The Stihl service manual is for the old 88, and they have no info on the newer types. Stihl De couldn't help, and Stihl Aust said "get it real hot and press real fast". That sounds like a precision approach, but it's essentially what I did.
 

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