32" detailed Bar Comparison Video

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I'll pass on the Total bars since they're only .050. I'd like a Tsumura since it comes in 0.063...oils better and runs cooler.
There is .063" total ones. The last one I had was that in 32".
 
There is .063" total ones. The last one I had was that in 32".
That's good to know. I wish the Total bar came in the light version like the Tsumura. I don't care for the looks of the Tsumura (big white spots??).
 
That's the plastic inserts. That's their version of the lightweight. So if total badged one it would be it.
 
What oil mix ratio and octane did you use? Wish you could test cylinder temps of your stock 660 vs your ported 660 and see if there's any difference using that Tsumura bar.
 
Ron660,
stihl light bar has one large piece of some sort of poly - they cut out a huge chunk of one side of the bar and fill it in with a insert and then glue it or some sort of weld.

sugi cuts out a hole through the entire bar and replaces with plastic/poly some sort

tsumura - stagger the cut outs and the cutouts only are one one side of bar - do not go all the way through. those are some sort of poly...plastic whatever as well.

never had a problem with any of them.

661 and 660 I run 45 to 1 stihl ultra with 92 ethanol free

ported 660 - 40 to 1 stihl ultra with 92 ethanol free
 
Stihl mills a section out. The inside is hollow except a few ribs. The oregon is the same way with just one big insert.
 
Stihl mills a section out. The inside is hollow except a few ribs. The oregon is the same way with just one big insert.

Oregon mills out the center, countersunk style around the edges. Then places two pieces of aluminum sandwiched around an aircraft use epoxy, and riveted once at each end. I have had one apart.

133818921.5n7uVAZJ.jpg
 
Oregon mills out the center, countersunk style around the edges. Then places two pieces of aluminum sandwiched around an aircraft use epoxy, and riveted once at each end. I have had one apart.

133818921.5n7uVAZJ.jpg
Yeah I meant one per side. I remember someone running one without insert.
 
Since they are new chains. I used the same method on all to tension. When you have (had) 50 bars and are changing them all the time. You get pretty good at taking them on and off and yes tensioning the chains.


Edit - I got almost identical results with the 20" bars, 24" bars, 28" bars, and 36" bars.
 
Since they are new chains. I used the same method on all to tension. When you have (had) 50 bars and are changing them all the time. You get pretty good at taking them on and off and yes tensioning the chains.

I never said you didn't do it properly. There's no reason to bull up. I simply stated a fact. Chain tension can't be accurately measured by "eyeballing". Chain tension causes heat. I like your test but you'd be silly if you didn't admit that.
 
I see your point. However I would have to disagree, given that the results were consistent and nearly identical with 20", 24", 28" and 36" bars of the same brands. ie. Tsumura, Cannon, Sugi hara ran the coolest while stihl ran the hottest....actual measurement #s being virtually identical across the board.
 
How did you compensate for the issues with infrared thermometers reading the bare steel bars verses painted surface bars?
 
"Substances with very low emissivity ratings, like highly-polished metals, tend to be very reflective of ambient infrared energy and less effective at emitting their own electromagnetic waves. If you were to point an infrared thermometer with fixed emissivity at the side of a stainless steel pot filled with boiling water, for example, you might get a reading closer to 100°F (38°C) than 212°F (100°C). That’s because the shiny metal is better at reflecting the ambient radiation of the room than it is at emitting its own infrared radiation."

Source: http://www.thermoworks.com/blog/2012/03/infrared-thermometry/

Without a hard contact thermocouple to compare readings it leaves your numbers with some question of accuracy for me.
 
I can put my hand on the cannon, tsumura, and sugi, and hold it there after the cut, I can't on the Stihl's.

btw ... The Cannon is a black painted bar. Furthermore the 24 and 28 cannon's I tested had different types of black paint. Powder coat and im guessing a parkerized finish.

So I disagree.
 
"Substances with very low emissivity ratings, like highly-polished metals, tend to be very reflective of ambient infrared energy and less effective at emitting their own electromagnetic waves. If you were to point an infrared thermometer with fixed emissivity at the side of a stainless steel pot filled with boiling water, for example, you might get a reading closer to 100°F (38°C) than 212°F (100°C). That’s because the shiny metal is better at reflecting the ambient radiation of the room than it is at emitting its own infrared radiation."

Source: http://www.thermoworks.com/blog/2012/03/infrared-thermometry/

Without a hard contact thermocouple to compare readings it leaves your numbers with some question of accuracy for me.

My Fluke 568 IR guns have adjustable emissivity settings. You pick the material and the finish, its as accurate as any Type K probe.

None of his bars are polished, so his readings are close enough to call it like he did
 

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