346 rebuild

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muddstopper

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I was given a 346xp a few months ago. Saw runs if you care to yank the cord long enough. I took it to the saw shop and they said low compression and piston pretty bad scored up. My guess is the saw was ran with a dull chain more often than not. Claimed only fix is a rebuild. Anyways, I saw the scorched piston for myself and since I have a 365xp and a 55, I decided to just shelf the 346 for a while. Well, it winter and I am thinking about a rebuild for the saw. Since the saw was a gift, I figure I can throw a little money at it. Started looking at the rebuilt kits on fleabay and gave up because I dont know enough about saws to know which kit to buy. Saw is a 346xp/xpg 45cc. Serial is 2hvxs.0454ab. Can anybody tell me what year model this is. I was also thinking about the bigbore kits offered and some reading on here says those kits are for a 350, will bolt on, but result in less power. I could use a little advice about going that route with the rebuild. Then there is the part about the 42mm/44mm/50mm piston kits. Really confused me so better to ask before spending any money. Another question I have is, If I go with a bigbore kit, does that mean I also need to buy a larger carb, or can I use the one I have with proper tuning. I have rebuilt everything from 350 chevys to 6068 JD, to briggs and straton, but have never rebuilt a chainsaw. Figure I can do it, but if I need to, i can just take it to the saw shop and let them do it.
 
Wow, that is really unfortunate.;)

There is no reason to make your life needlessly difficult. PM me and I'll take it off your hands.:cheers:
 
I was given a 346xp a few months ago. Saw runs if you care to yank the cord long enough. I took it to the saw shop and they said low compression and piston pretty bad scored up. My guess is the saw was ran with a dull chain more often than not. Claimed only fix is a rebuild. Anyways, I saw the scorched piston for myself and since I have a 365xp and a 55, I decided to just shelf the 346 for a while. Well, it winter and I am thinking about a rebuild for the saw. Since the saw was a gift, I figure I can throw a little money at it. Started looking at the rebuilt kits on fleabay and gave up because I dont know enough about saws to know which kit to buy. Saw is a 346xp/xpg 45cc. Serial is 2hvxs.0454ab. Can anybody tell me what year model this is. I was also thinking about the bigbore kits offered and some reading on here says those kits are for a 350, will bolt on, but result in less power. I could use a little advice about going that route with the rebuild. Then there is the part about the 42mm/44mm/50mm piston kits. Really confused me so better to ask before spending any money. Another question I have is, If I go with a bigbore kit, does that mean I also need to buy a larger carb, or can I use the one I have with proper tuning. I have rebuilt everything from 350 chevys to 6068 JD, to briggs and straton, but have never rebuilt a chainsaw. Figure I can do it, but if I need to, i can just take it to the saw shop and let them do it.

2hvxs.0454ab. this is what the husqvarna factory writte on the saw ??
 
What old-cat said & use a Meteor 42mm piston. If the cylinder can't be saved, get a oem 50cc top-end from spike60 here for $200. Yes the saw is well worth spending the money on. You will also want to replace the plastic intake clamp with a metal one, replace fuel line & filter also.
 
Get reading. There's days of information on here about the 346xp. If you're passionate enough about the rebuild you'll figure it out. Or you could just send it to someone and pay them to do it. Depends on what your goals are.
 
I am going to have to admit to being stupid for a few moments. When I got this saw, I jerked on the cord until I was blue before it ever cranked. Took to saw shop for a tune up and they told me it needed a rebuild and I left it at that. Well, while piddleing with it today, I tried to crank it up, added a little gas and jerked the cord. Tons of compression. Well that just threw up all sorts of red flags, if it needs rebuilt, why is it so hard to pull the rope????. Pulled plug wire, had spark, pulled plug and it was all oily and black. Replaced plug and saw started on third pull. Needs a litte carb adjustment, but saw would rev out of site. Didnt try cutting anything because its raining cats and dogs outside. Anyways, I dont think theres anything major wrong with the saw. I am going to wait for a dry day and give it a work out on some oak and do a little tuning before committing to any kind of rebuild. Makes me kinda pissed at my local saw shop, I always thought they gave me good service, but now I am wondering.
 
In your first post you said you saw the scorched piston yourself. Your piston rings may still be free giving the saw compression but if you're seeing scoring on your piston it would be smart to figure out why it's scored before you give it a workout in wood and risk ruining your cylinder.
 
Yep, piston looked scorched at first glance back at the saw shop. I think i might have been to trusting to the mechanic and taking his word for it. I took the muffler off a while ago and could wipe those streaks off with a rag on the end of a screw driver. I also took the screwdriver and tried to move the piston in the bore and it seemed tight. I guess no way to really know what shape the bore is in without taking it apart. I think i am going to clean the saw up and take it back to the shop and get his "second" opinion, and if he says the saw is in good shape, then we are going to have a little discussion.
 
Yep, piston looked scorched at first glance back at the saw shop. I think i might have been to trusting to the mechanic and taking his word for it. I took the muffler off a while ago and could wipe those streaks off with a rag on the end of a screw driver. I also took the screwdriver and tried to move the piston in the bore and it seemed tight. I guess no way to really know what shape the bore is in without taking it apart. I think i am going to clean the saw up and take it back to the shop and get his "second" opinion, and if he says the saw is in good shape, then we are going to have a little discussion.
Finaly the saw have problem or not??
 
Sounds like the piston is fine, but hard to tell without a photo.
Do plan to change the plastic intake clamp for a metal one. This is a known cause of piston failure on these.
Fuel line & filter while in there too.
 
I dont know if there is really any problem. I havent ever ran the saw. I got it, cranked it, took to saw shop and was told it needed a rebuild. I set it in the corner until today when I got to thinking about doing the rebuild and started this thread. Did a bunch of reading and decided to try and crank the saw. After pulling the starting rope, saw seemed to have good compression and this made me start looking at why it wouldnt crank, easily. I pulled the muffler and took a look and the piston looked all streaky but the streaks wiped off with a rag. When I had spark at plug, I pulled the plug, and it was dripping oil wet. I installed a new plug and it cranked on the third pull and seemed to run fine. I dont know why everything is soaked in oil, I suspect maybe to much oil in the gas and that fouled the plug. I plan on a compression test and a little carb adjustment and see how it goes.

As for changeing the intake clamp, something i didnt know about. If saw checks out good, thats something I will consider, and also the fuel line and filter for sure. Have to be next wk before I fool with it anymore, headed to Sc in a few minutes.
 
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