372XP project

[jr27236]

So I bought a 372xp for a flip (have a buyer lined up already) and of course....it needs parts, more then I thought. The tank apparently took a chain beating that someone had JB'd or something. Same repair looks like on the pull start(top left corner). The Rim gear was completely blown in half and the chain cut a groove in drum gear dead center and even the chain links were worn down.. This saw was ran and never cleaned by the looks of the grime on it.
So NOW the questions by looking at the pictures below
1: do you think I could reuse the drum and get away with just a new 3/8 x 7 rim?
2. New gas tank, OEM or is there a good AM?
3 cylinder and piston are flawless, but are they orig OEM by the markings in the picture?
4 Pull start cover oem or am?
5 coil, is that orig oem?
This saw is an absolute screaming power house when I ran it when I got home (thats when the rim gear let know she was toasted)
Anyone have and of the parts listed above.

 

[PA Dan]

Um...not a 272xp!

 

[jr27236]

Um...not a 272xp!

Oopsy lol yes I meant 372. I corrected that. Thanks Dan

 

[Full Chisel]

That's easily the worst condition I have ever seen a sprocket in...I would definitely replace the drum since the groove has worn deep into the splines. I can't believe someone ran it like that for so long!

Everything else looks OEM to me.

 

[jr27236]

I started spun it up and man did it not sound so good lol. I was glad to see the problem was only the gear

 

[redoakman]

loot of good after market tanks and recoil . covers out there . drum and sprocet are cheap . slap a new sticker on the recoil cover noone will ever no.. coil looks oem to me boss

 

[huskyboy]

Purple power/simple green and a brush will clean that right up. Used oem tanks are cheap as well as am. Oregon rim and sprocket are about 25$. Nice saw.

 

[gary courtney]

just purchased an am tank that i can't see any difference from an oem . just ordered direct from huztl what would have been 135+ dollars for oem, 25 bucks including shipping !!!

 

[Big_Wood]

if a new sprocket slides onto that drum and floats it can be reused if all else is ok with it. you can even shape the splines with a diamond bur if there is damage causing it to not slide on and float. the saw otherwise looks all OEM and original including everything you asked about. i'd replace the rim and clean up that tank. it's likely a very small hole under that mess. clean it up well with acetone and plastic weld it with soldering gun fitted with a paddle element. it'll be like new except for a little discoloration if you do it right. the other option is the reseal with seal all or JB. so for the cost of a rim and a bit of your time it would be a good saw. if you wanna get cosmetic with it then that's pretty simple, break out your wallet. lol

 

[Griffdog1]

- Its all OEM.
- Get a new sprocket and drum.
- Clean the saw up properly and see what you are actually dealing with re the thank handle. I would be inclined to just use as is if the repair is holding until you can find a good original piece. Would do the same with the starter cover, but would used a soldering iron to meld/weld the back of the crack and then clean up/shape the JB weld on the front down to a minimum. This will be fine until a good second hand piece comes along.
- change your fuel lines and filters and plug an go and cut some wood. it does not make any sense to use aftermarket parts on this saw when what you need is all available second hand OEM and will keep the saw looking period correct and it will be original. As soon as you chuck a chinese handle and recoil on it, no mater how nice they look, you now have a half chinese saw to some people even though the mechanicals of this saw are all Sweden - you should keep it that way for long term resale value as much as anything.

 

[brad ruch]

Im doing one also right now.but its a x torq. 2011 model.i would pressure vaccum test it.the seals and bearing on that clutch side are the first to go.mine was bad.even thoughthe bearings didnt fall apart once i split the cases they where very rough and not smooth. My top end looked great.but I decided for 13.00 to put a new set of caber rings in it.of coarse im keeping this saw. [emoji3]

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[jr27236]

Im doing one also right now.but its a x torq. 2011 model.i would pressure vaccum test it.the seals and bearing on that clutch side are the first to go.mine was bad.even thoughthe bearings didnt fall apart once i split the cases they where very rough and not smooth. My top end looked great.but I decided for 13.00 to put a new set of caber rings in it.of coarse im keeping this saw. [emoji3]

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I tore it down and the bottom end looks really good and feels really tight, thats not to say that there could be some issues but at this point of tear down. Im gonna clean it up real good fix the obvious and have no choice but to reassemble and then check. Doesn't take long to break down again so thats my plan for now.
Thanks for the replies. Im gonna do what was suggested for the tank but it is weaping gas from that location still so worst ill get a good used oem if my repair dont work

 

[Big_Wood]

I tore it down and the bottom end looks really good and feels really tight, thats not to say that there could be some issues but at this point of tear down. Im gonna clean it up real good fix the obvious and have no choice but to reassemble and then check. Doesn't take long to break down again so thats my plan for now.
Thanks for the replies. Im gonna do what was suggested for the tank but it is weaping gas from that location still so worst ill get a good used oem if my repair dont work

if you go to a store that sells soldering gun stuff get a paddle element if you have a soldering gun. i plastic weld everything. trick to strength is the cut kind of a crater in the plastic. when i start to melt i add that plastic back into the crater i cut. not as strong as new but usually plenty strong for regular use as long as what happened before doesn't happen again.

 

[jr27236]

if you go to a store that sells soldering gun stuff get a paddle element if you have a soldering gun. i plastic weld everything. trick to strength is the cut kind of a crater in the plastic. when i start to melt i add that plastic back into the crater i cut. not as strong as new but usually plenty strong for regular use as long as what happened before doesn't happen again.

The previous owner obviously wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed, especially the split rim and the fact at how bad it was worn into the drum. They definitely kept on trying to use the saw.

 

[jr27236]

Ok I have a question I need to replace the clutch drum and rim sprocket. The part number for a 3/8 x 7 set up is (what I get from the ipl) 537036202 is that correct?
I bought one from a shitbayer and he sent me a Raisman 21-35-236 which is first off .325 but the drum is so much smaller then the 372 oem that it drops inside. Knew it as soon as I opened the box, that obvious

 

[brad ruch]

Get a oregon 106593X

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[brad ruch]

I would give nate a call at performance outdoor equipment. Great guy and great price.

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[jr27236]

Found the numbers on it with a magnifying glass.
5039324-01 is that oregon a direct replacement for this one?

 

[brad ruch]

Yes

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[jr27236]

Thank you