84 K10 Engine Build

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The header bolts were a PITA. I put the motor in with the headers installed because I found it simpler to get the hardware in the header flange on the inside of #1 and #2 cylinders. Then later bought the proper header bolts and swapped those in but had a hard time getting some of them as tight as they should be. I'll check them before I start it again. BTW that was headers only, no mufflers or any pipe yet. Let's just say the neighbors were celebrating with me even if they didn't want to.

The timing advance is controlled electronically via the OEM spark control module, no vac. The distributor hooks to the module with a 4 wire plug.

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Initial timing was set at approximately 11-12 BTDC. When I shut it off it was trying to overrun.
 
lol your cap lock on distributor is not locked marshy get to locking lol timing shouldnt be above 8 on that kind but i have ran them at 18 with the ones with vacuum advance
 
lol your cap lock on distributor is not locked marshy get to locking lol timing shouldnt be above 8 on that kind but i have ran them at 18 with the ones with vacuum advance
Good eyes. That pic might have been before I went back in there and found the unhooked wire. I believe its locked properly now but will double check...

So you are saying I should have 8* BTDC with the spark control module unhooked as an initial timing point? I know it wanted to keep running when I turned it off after drining it down the road. Good thing its a manual so I could stall the engine.
 
you are saying it was dieseling after key was shut off usually timing is the cause
 
lol need to get rid of the tool box and stack it higher the old chevy will take it
 
lol need to get rid of the tool box and stack it higher the old chevy will take it
Yes it would. I like to have the tool box so I can put my saws/tools in it though. If I could weld I would make my own, it would be deeper but narrower and I'd make it out of steel. The aluminum is getting a few small dents in it... I can get 2/3 cord on it with the tool box if I stack the lower half of the box and toss the rest. Stacking the whole box I can fit nearly 1 cord on it but its though on the tail gate to hold the box sides together.
 
here is my buddys truck we always load them down
 

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8 foot bed truck has the 8.1 in it with allison transmission he also has a 78 camper special 3/4 ton with 355 and 400 turbo transmission
 
Yup, that truck probably handles it like a boss. My K10 is still a half ton truck. If I stacked mine like that it would be over weight and sway like a mofo. I know because I've put enough on mine to find out with the tool box in place. Plus I have C rated tires right now. :surprised3:
 
lol i had a 74 half ton and i added springs and changed from the 15 inch wheels to 16 so i could use the 8 ply tires still swayed some but i had 4 leafs in the front and 8 in the back hit my head off the roof a couple times it had a built turbo 350 12 bolt rear end we have a 16 foot trailer and we would take to logging sites and they would place their cut offs on the trailer some of the loads was enough to sag my truck lol
 
The truck is in the shop getting an exhaust. I had 2 Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flow mufflers that will make their way under the truck and exit behind the rear of the tires with some slash cut chrome tips. The stock HEI got tossed for a MSD Street Fire HEI with vac assist. I got the truck on the road to be able to drive it to the shop. Once Im done getting it up to snuff and moving the last of my firewood it'll get a wash and put away until spring/summer. I'll get another clip when the exhaust is done and its been tuned a little more, I might have to take another trip into the carb to replace the accelerator pump...
 
Just received some tires for my truck. Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3, 33x12.5 R15. There are going on this week! I'm actually rebuilding the front end as we speak. It's getting new ball joints, stabilizer shock, wheel joints, seals and fresh grease. Driver side is about done and passenger side should be easy because I made all the mistakes on the driver side lol.

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Wow, its been a while since I've updated this and lots has happened.
I ditched the GM distributor and went with a MSD Streetfire distributor (with vac advance). I bought the weight and spring kit and recurved it to be all in (22 degrees) at 3000-3500 rpm and set the initial timing at 12*. I kept adjusting the valves but couldn't get one or two valves to quiet down and noticed some were 3-4 turns further in when setting the lash. I figured I had some bad lifters because they were re-used in the build. So I bought a set of lifters and while I was that far into it I decided to replace the 0.040" head gasket with a 0.015" one. That change netted me about 5cc decrease on combustion chamber size and I estimate a half a point of compression bump. Once I opened the engine I found the lifter really s*** the bed.
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Once I got that mess cleaned up I decided to drop the oil pan and wipe that out. Not because I wanted to but because I dropped the cap out of the lifter and it fell down the oil return hole. It was the right thing to do anyways because the oil pan was holding a cup of nasty oil and you can see the push rods were giving off some metal so it was good to get that all cleaned up.

While I was at it I decided to paint my headers.
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And proceeded to screw it up by using engine enamel primer under the ceramic header paint.
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Insert swear words here: #*%&%@#*^&%*& $*&$^%!
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But at the end of the day the result is a good running, nice driving truck.
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