Advice on approach to removing hung tree

[Tim S]

A tree fell six feet from my house in the crook of another tree. It is larger than the photo makes it look--about 12" in diameter at the base.

I've used a chainsaw before, but not so strategically. I'd appreciate advice on how to approaching freeing the tree from the crook safely.

Thanks very much.

 

[troutbum]

I would do a top cut on the end suspended in the air as close to the tree on the same side as possible, then undercut on the opposite side of the tree and not let the large stalk fall on my feet. Then remove the small piece of wood from that crotch....edit, I'm looking at a tiny pic on my phone, now it looks more complicated

 

[ATH]

before looking at the picture, i was ready to say "don't". they call hung-up trees widow makers for a reason. Not the place you want to learn to use a chainsaw!

However...this one is easy. Start at the end on the ground. Cut 18" long (firewood length) pieces. As you get closer to the standing tree, the hung up tree will tip the other way. I don't see anything here that suggests that will happen rapidly, so just be careful and watch for it starting to happen. Then go to the other side that is now on the ground and start cutting there. Probably 1-2 cuts and you be back to the first side. Never cut with the saw over your head. Take your time.

 

[Tim S]

ATH, thank you. Not quite sure the hung up end will tip over, as you say. You can't see it in the pic, but there's a small branch stub holding on to that standing tree. So I know it will not tip back toward me, but it might tip forward, up and out of the crook. I'll be careful. I might even call the landscape guy down the road. Thanks.

 

[woodenboater]

just wondering. is there any tension from the smaller tree that is also holding up the dropper ? that might affect where I start cutting and on which side I stand

 

[Tim S]

Good point. Yes, the smaller long branch the dropper is leaning on is being forced away from the trunk, so there is pressure on it. I'm not sure there is much tension to where it will whip back when released. It is most likely cracked and will have to come off.

 

[AGoodSteward]

Don't over focus on the place you are cutting. Watch along the whole length of the log for movement. Keep a sledge and wedge handy.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Looking at the log from your pic. For the end in the air, stand on the right side (tree side) and cut from top down.
For the end on the ground, stand on the left side, cut from the bottom up, or from the top down if you put a wedge in your cut. Also if you start cutting near the end of the log, by the time you get close to the tree, the tension/compression will have been taken out of the stem.

 

[Tim S]

Thanks very much, BC!

 

[JanThorCro]

This ought to be drawn out on paper, with tension, compression and standing positions for cutting.
Then photographed and posted here. It'd be nice to see the reactive forces of bad choices too.

Words only go so far...

 

[ropensaddle]

Put on ppe start saw cut off suspended end top down fast cutting. If there was a rootball you would need to be prepared for it lifting as you cut off weight. After cutting the suspended go to the butt end and cut upward just make sure to get the ppe part correct

 

[benjo75]

2nd on the ppe part.

Hey Rope. If you ever get down this way I would like to take a closer look at that Wraptor of yours.

 

[Tim S]

Update: I finally got around to this project. It went like a charm, just as some of you suggested. Very good advice from AGoodSteward to keep an eye on the length of the log, not just where I was cutting, because although the felled tree and the one it was hung up on had no tension and didn't spring up, the felled tree did suddenly twist around about 1/4 turn when the weight came off the suspended end. A heavy branch that had been pointed upward wanted to move toward the ground. I was prepared to hop to the side. Many thanks for your help.

 

[Marshy]

Going to need a crane for this job lol. J/k

 

[Tim S]