Alaskan mill, enough Saw?

[earlthegoat2]

With all these trees down around here I am stepping up my timetable for getting a milling operation off the ground. So, I won't be able to afford a dedicated milling saw yet. However, I only plan to mill this southern yellow pine we have around here.

So with just milling softwood and never exceeding a 20" cut would my 460 be up to the job?

It is bone stock except for an aftermarket air filter. No muffler mod and the limiter caps are still in. 28" bar and Woodland Pro ripping chain.

After reading about the guy's 880 that grenaded while milling I am a little paranoid. I plan to run 42:1 mix. I've heard the muffler should be modded to reduce heat buildup. If I do that then I should probably pop the caps and richer up the carb. Even after all that will the 460 be enough to reliably cut 20" pine long term?

 

[DTrap]

I think if you take good care of the saw it will be fine. Let the saw cool down in between cuts and before turning it off. Keep your chain sharp.

 

[BobL]

It should be OK.
The change from (presumably 50:1) to 42:1 is not worth bothering about but if you do that you MUST retune it to that mix and make sure the H screw is set on the rich side.
The muffler mod is also not needed but if you are in a position to do it then go for it.

The key thing is learning how to sharpen properly and regularly touch up - after every tank is a start, just take the glint off the cutter edge. This takes a significant load off the powerhead.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I am a small engine tech(and tractor, skid steer, mowers,etc.) for a land development and maintenance company. Modding the saw is not a problem but I just got it and I am a fan of "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Also, I have acces to a chain grinding setup that I use to sharpen all the chains we use so the chains will stay sharp.

Good to know about the mix and cooling off.

 

[pond hopper]

BobL is right. Chain is the key for milling. Big power gets u no where if the chain isn't up to the job.

 

[BobL]

Also, I have acces to a chain grinding setup that I use to sharpen all the chains we use so the chains will stay sharp.

Most people don't realise how sharp milling chains have to be to minimise engine load.
Ideally milling chains need touching up after about every tank of fuel.
If a grinder is used away from the milling site many loops of chain are needed to get through a milling day and changing chains then becomes a right PITA.
This is why I encourage CSMers to learn to touch up with the chain staying on the saw and in the mill.
I can touch up a chain for a 42" bar faster than I can swap the chain out AND my mill setups do not require me to remove the saws from the mills.

The sort of touch up of a milling chain typically needs just remove the glint on an individual cutter edge, which usually means as little as 2-3 file swipes or a very light touch of a rotary tool and it's very difficult to do this with a grinder because they all have to be filed the same so more metal ends up being removed and chains won't last as long.

Touching up to just removes the glint results in cutter lengths not being exactly the same but that doesn't matter as much if progressive sharpening is used.
Using progressive sharpening means the rakers are then set at different absolute depths which is something grinders cannot handle.

Grinders are very good for taking chain that has been used and abused and getting it back to square one with all the cutter angles.
I used to put all my chains through a grinder about every 3 months whether they needed it or not but stopped doing that many years ago.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Interesting and great info. I'm not bad with a file. A little practice could make me better.

 

[BobL]

I still use a file guide as I find it easier to control the basic cutter angles.

 

[Pagie]

I have milled with a 440, if you keep it sharp it will be ok on a 20" log.today I was milling some very hard wood with a 660. The same log that my 880 melted cutting. I have since found out From the stihl shop after they suggested I ran it with no oil. Still using the same jug of fuel today. They said now it was a faulty carbi as after they replaced the pot and piston it would not run as they liked. They tried another carbi from an old saw and it was much better. They tried a carbi kit and that did not fix it. So now they are after a new carbi and it looks like I will not be paying anything. I hope. They were already supplying all parts.

 

[DeckSetter]

I would think you'd be fine, I bought an Echo CS-8000 to start milling with after reading it suggested by a few people, and it didn't seem to mind 24" of black walnut that's been laying for 2 years. It's not much different in cc size than a 460.

 

[SeMoTony]

Most people don't realise how sharp milling chains have to be to minimise engine load.
Ideally milling chains need touching up after about every tank of fuel.
If a grinder is used away from the milling site many loops of chain are needed to get through a milling day and changing chains then becomes a right PITA.
This is why I encourage CSMers to learn to touch up with the chain staying on the saw and in the mill.
I can touch up a chain for a 42" bar faster than I can swap the chain out AND my mill setups do not require me to remove the saws from the mills.

The sort of touch up of a milling chain typically needs just remove the glint on an individual cutter edge, which usually means as little as 2-3 file swipes or a very light touch of a rotary tool and it's very difficult to do this with a grinder because they all have to be filed the same so more metal ends up being removed and chains won't last as long.

Touching up to just removes the glint results in cutter lengths not being exactly the same but that doesn't matter as much if progressive sharpening is used.
Using progressive sharpening means the rakers are then set at different absolute depths which is something grinders cannot handle.

Grinders are very good for taking chain that has been used and abused and getting it back to square one with all the cutter angles.
I used to put all my chains through a grinder about every 3 months whether they needed it or not but stopped doing that many years ago.

I've got a ms 460 MM'd and max flo air cleaner tuned to 4 stroke until it gotta load in the wood. 26" green white oak and 37" green (wet) ash . Alaskan mill ,patience required 2 feet o cut pause idle to cool couple more feet idle for same. A
t right speed saw sings (-;

 

[BobL]

Sounds a bit slow - you should be able to go for it non-stop..
A temp gauge really helps know where the machine is at.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

One of my 360s built a whole house mounted on an Alaskan mill. I traded a 660 *and $$) for it.

 

[SeMoTony]

Sounds a bit slow - you should be able to go for it non-stop..
A temp gauge really helps know where the machine is at.
View attachment 536459

Thanx Bob I've been lurking/lerning for a while. Greatly appreciate your openess n time spent showing/telling us the way you've found best so far. i've gotten an 066 runner to replce piston in, and my$5 064 saw3 kit (disassembled) that will be a 91cc hybrid when done so the 6 foot dual powered bar can have equanity & less concern on my part (-:

 

[marti384]

I still use a file guide as I find it easier to control the basic cutter angles.

What kind of file guide do you use?