Aluminum ladder for 1st cut

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BigOakAdot

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Hey all,

So I have a lot of milling to accomplish and not a ton of time to do so. I'm trying to get my stash done in the most efficient way I can.

I've been using 2x10's to set up for my first cut in the past, but I find it too time consuming. I know a lot of you guys use aluminum ladders to accomplish this much faster.

All I find on CL is extension ladders and A frame ladders. Does anyone have a brand or link to a ladder I can use that's relatively inexpensive? I'm trying to avoid the track system that costs about 200.

Thanks!

BOA
 
As rarefish said, I have extension ladders taken apart and use the ladder on every cut. So much easier to start the cut as well as finish the cut. Drilled a hole in every rung and just cinch it down.
 
I also use a ladder for every cut. It allows you to easily start and finish each cut and only takes an extra minute to set. A 3120 with a 42 inch bar on a panther mill is quite heavy so anything to make things easier will help speed up production.
 
Thanks guys. I think I found one to use. so the ladder on every cut makes it slide more freely through the cut?
 
I tend to use rails (in my case, usually 2X4s, but I have been considering using a ladder as well) on every cut because I feel that they will always be smoother than even the smoothest (chainsaw) milled surface so I am not compounding roughness with each cut (though this may be folly).

Further, you always have something to hang the saw on to start the cut, which I find useful.
 
Yeah well with the ripping chain I use its always very smooth. I just need to get gravity on my side and not on my back!!!
 
Gravity IS your friend. I bought one of those big 4 foot farm jacks at Harbor Freight for 50 bucks and find it quite helpful in raising one end of a log (thanks to bobl for that, and many other ideas).
 
I am very interested in learning whatever magic you are using to make this log levitate like this; it seems WAY easier than anything I can imagine doing. ;)
All magic is secret, or it wouldn't be magic! That was a big blow down and the stump is still on the other end. It still has a lot of log sticking out in the air, and I want to mill some more slabs from it. It's been several years and I'm afraid the roots will be giving way soon, dropping it. If I get a chance to mill some more slabs before it falls down, I'll probably cut a small tree with a "Y" in it to prop the end up. Here's the fold up table I made out of the slabs for my hunting trailer, Joe.





 
Gave up carting ladders around. I use Malloffs end board and lag screw system, take care not to use screws longer than the end boards. Lets you cut any length log, with a bit of practice you can enter and exit the cut straight. Only time i use a guide board is when i am cutting cookies on a 45degree angle.2014-03-11 12.38.46.jpg
 
The most useful thing about using log rails for every cut is being able to remove the twist from a previous cut which is impossible to do by just milling directly over the top of a previous twisted cut.
16ftr3.jpg
I've used ladders and boards but I like my Unistrut frame best of all.
Adjustable for both width and length, and it breaks down to 2 x 10ft segments so I can just fit it in my van.
Yes it's heavy and slows things down so I guess if I needed to cut a heap of board from small log I wouldn't use it.

For anyone contemplating the Unistrut route, I cut the 20ft long rails in half but If I was to do this again I would go the 2/3 - 1/3 cut.
The 10ft long segments are usually just a tad short for most of the stuff I've been cutting.
Downside is I would not be able to fit the longer segment in my van but that's what roof racks a for.
 
Perhaps experienced can clarify my idea that waking in wedges along the slab that are bigger than the kerf contribute to the next slab being out of level.

So one cut is done, the ladder gets placed on the log for the next cut and there is a gap (most of the time at the end the log) from the last cut. Me thinks this is a wedge problem.
 
Boon - What are the wood wedges for under the rungs of your ladder? Are you trying to adjust for a twist from a previous cut?
yes, also some sag there was lack of support on the first cut due to the unevenness of the log-not possible to support the whole run sometimes, saw and mill weight don't help. We were cutting 200x200's on that run

072.JPG
 
yes, also some sag there was lack of support on the first cut due to the unevenness of the log-not possible to support the whole run sometimes, saw and mill weight don't help.

I find "snuggling" the cross beams of the log rails into the top of the log for the first cut helps reduce this problem.
Also on bigger logs it also provides for a wider spacing of the log rails as shown in the picture below.
Ladders have more cross beams (steps) so it's a bit more work.

layout2.jpg
 
I find "snuggling" the cross beams of the log rails into the top of the log for the first cut helps reduce this problem.
Also on bigger logs it also provides for a wider spacing of the log rails as shown in the picture below.
Ladders have more cross beams (steps) so it's a bit more work.

Yes you are right, this is what I was dealing with on the first cut

060.JPG

I love flat straight logs & wish there were more around. I like the uni-strut snug idea, but find times when the ladder is indispensable. Have drilled holes in the rungs so it can be screwed down, which helps.
 
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