Antique saw thread

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These were fairly brutal also, I don`t know what they weigh but I know a fella that has several of them,

0.84
 
Yeah I see on Acres that might actually be more similar to my saws, beyond the larger displacement.. Direct drive.. I've still got plenty to learn on the history side with big homies.

I've got a handful of XL 12's I'm trying to sort out, gave the only runner to one of my carpenters. A couple that need coils, one I'm trying to tune, and another restored one I'll probably leave that way - hasn't seen fuel.

The C 51 needs work. Running through too much fuel and I can't lean it out - but haven't looked into it beyond that.

Bunch of XL 1's went to a friend who's fond of them,

The XL 76 is the first saw I ever bought, about 10 years ago and I have it running very nice.

A gaggle of XL 2's that don't really interest me too much, a few of them runners.

A couple 350's interest me for wood saws, but I get the impression they are a problematic design. One won't idle well.

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Photo 2014-11-30, 5 02 53 PM.jpg
 
Question for you guys that restore these beautiful saws.
When you tare them down and split the cases do you blast and paint or seal the inside of them? I have to guess that paint is not going to stand up to all the gas and oil inside of them.
Just wondering what you use that will not peal off on the inside and start to float around.
 
Question for you guys that restore these beautiful saws.
When you tare them down and split the cases do you blast and paint or seal the inside of them? I have to guess that paint is not going to stand up to all the gas and oil inside of them.
Just wondering what you use that will not peal off on the inside and start to float around.

No, do not paint the insides, powder coat will last on the insides but paint will eventually break down and cause havoc. The bare mag insides is protected by a film of oil but a saw needs to be run for that to stay oiled, otherwise oil has to be poured in through the carb and the saw rolled over and over to get the oil on all the interior surfaces of the crankcase, a little through the plug hole and the same rolling around will ensure the cylinder is coated. Each year this should be done as the oil will eventually run off due to gravity.
 
No, do not paint the insides, powder coat will last on the insides but paint will eventually break down and cause havoc. The bare mag insides is protected by a film of oil but a saw needs to be run for that to stay oiled, otherwise oil has to be poured in through the carb and the saw rolled over and over to get the oil on all the interior surfaces of the crankcase, a little through the plug hole and the same rolling around will ensure the cylinder is coated. Each year this should be done as the oil will eventually run off due to gravity.
Thanks that was what I was thinking also but I wanted someones opinion on it.
 
I have run the 9-23`s they are a lot bigger, weigh 23 lbs and had 100 cc`s, some say they made 9 hp.

0.C6
If I recall my homelite naming convention correctly, the factory was among those claiming 9 hp. Not sure if that's true but dang what a sweet saw regardless. Love to run one, but not sure I'm up for totin' 23 pounds of "lightweight" saw all day.
 
I'm new to this site and it looks like you guys can help.
I got this old saw that is missing the recoil and cover. I'm guessing the cover had badging on it. I think it's a homelite but have no proof. I can't find any name anywhere on the saw. I'm hoping someone can give me some info, or even better a handle on a recoil. I'll include some pics. Thanks for any help possible.
 

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I'm new to this site and it looks like you guys can help.
I got this old saw that is missing the recoil and cover. I'm guessing the cover had badging on it. I think it's a homelite but have no proof. I can't find any name anywhere on the saw. I'm hoping someone can give me some info, or even better a handle on a recoil. I'll include some pics. Thanks for any help possible.

Sears David Bradly? Hard to tell who actually made it.
 
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