Anyone recognize this porting?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If not China, then it's one of the other Asian countries. The point is the same. They're not cast in Italy like most assume.

I believed in the beginning that they were indeed manufactured in Italy as well but you are correct, that they are manufactured in an Asian country, but not China.

The point may be the same, but the details are wrong.
 
what land are they manufactured in then?
Taiwan.

So to folks from China it's considered China.

The rest of the world it's considered Taiwan.

They have been in a dispute for decades.



Don't mistake Taiwan and China for the same type of place though. Taiwan is generally more professional and the incomes are 3x higher there than in China.
 
Taiwan.

So to folks from China it's considered China.

The rest of the world it's considered Taiwan.

They have been in a dispute for decades.



Don't mistake Taiwan and China for the same type of place though. Taiwan is generally more professional and the incomes are 3x higher there than in China.
Yes know where they are placed. My geography where quite good when I was in school, getting old and senile nowadays though.
Off course there are high quality things made in Asia.
 
If your using a 3 finger stone hone they won't work.some use flex hones but are a little aggressive. Me,well i along with others have switched to the wigglesworth treatment.it just consists of a rol-loc disc holder that is turned down to a smaller diameter with a longer shaft.you use this to hone the cylinders with a scotchbrite pad.just have to chuck it up in a drill.with the low rpm and the less aggressive scotch brite you can run it a pretty good amount without risking the plating.
An eye bolt with a scotchbrite pad pulled thru the hole in the end of the bolt chucked up in a drill works good too.
 
Well I finally got around to installing my huztl/farmertec carb for a 288 on my 181 today. I had to pull the roller pin to use the existing linkage. No big deal. It looks like the carb that was on this saw when I bought it was the same as this one. I had to modify/ grind the case for the carb to drop low enough to align properly. Still not sure why. But it tuned right in and seems to be running great! I left it a little rich for breaking in the new jug.
Also I checked with a tach I'm right at 12k. What is this saw supposed to be at?
 
I don't have a lot of time on this saw yet but I ran it yesterday and boy did it pull over hard (I didn't use the comp. release). So I checked compression... It's up to 215 psi! Wow!!
Anyways looks like I have an air leak when it gets hot, it ran great for about 5 min then really started leaning out and losing power even out of the cut. I pulled the muffler and the top end looks great so time for a vac test...
 
Well I pressure tested it today and it was leaking from the base.
I looked close and the jug looked like it had been dropped and the base was raised just a bit on one corner from the dent, and the mounting holes had burrs.
Also I didn't read directions properly and only put gasket sealer on one side...
Whoops!
I won't forget that again!
A little filing and cleaning, some new gasket cement and we will try again....
 
I'm having some trouble.

I can't seem to get the base gasket to seal.
Is permatex 2a not ok for this application?
I applied to both sides, let it tack up, bolted together and let it sit for 24. Still getting a leak.
Any thoughts?
 
I'm having some trouble.

I can't seem to get the base gasket to seal.
Is permatex 2a not ok for this application?
I applied to both sides, let it tack up, bolted together and let it sit for 24. Still getting a leak.
Any thoughts?
Sounds strange that the base is leaking. Is there a pin hole in the jug?
 
Back
Top