Hey Guys , I recently purchased a new carlton 5014 whith the 35 hp vangaurd and sandvik wheel. I think carlton builds an exceptionally well machine. on the other hand im not happy with the performance. im coming from a vermeer 252 with a 27 hp kohler. Paid alot of money for a new carlton to only find out that it doesn't perform much better than my old vermeer with greenteeth. its better but not what i was expecting. It bogs down rather easy once you get a couple inches below ground level. Im going to have the engine checked out, but seems to run fine other than bogging down. Anyone else notice this?? Anyways i was thinking of taking all the teeth off besides the 12 lead teeth. the side teeth never come close to the stump so i figured taking them off might alleviate some weight and reduce bogging. Just a thought. So what do you guys think? Pros cons? thanks for any input.
?? Anyone tried to take off side cutters on sandvik wheel?? Not happy with carlton 5014 performance
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Topbuilder
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Can't hurt to try it. My caution has always been - Does the removed weight affect the rotating speed and rpms? I have a bunch of pockets I'm sure rarely see any action. But, if your secondary teeth are not in the fight, they are not contributing to your bogging problem...
I actually tried it today and noticed a significant difference. I removed all side teeth and put on brand new (12) lead teeth(sandvik, razor). There are pros and cons of course. Faster cutting: yes, less bogging :yes, but still about the same bite. What i mean is with my low hp machine is that i cant bite into the stump more, but i was able to increase my swing speed, and had less bogging once i was 6-12 inches under ground level. Positive readings for sure, but still have to see how long the lead teeth hold their edge.
Topbuilder
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Ah, I'm 4-6 max unless it's a special situation. That do wear 'em out.
????
marne
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I would put screws in the place where the side holders where, just to secure the holes from abrasive wear. Maybe you sell the wheel someday, because you're fed up from it.
I'm sure your engine runs fine.
It's just the big diameter wheel paired with large surface teeth. Using razor saber tooth even increases the surface.
Or just look at greenteeth, they recommend 1100 for machines from 85hp and up, now measure the size of your sandviks.
Many statet before that these sandvik wheels only excel on big hp grinders and I don't get till today why carlton uses the same wheel size from 35hp gas to 33 and 44hp diesel. Yip size matters, in any way.
I'm sure your engine runs fine.
It's just the big diameter wheel paired with large surface teeth. Using razor saber tooth even increases the surface.
Or just look at greenteeth, they recommend 1100 for machines from 85hp and up, now measure the size of your sandviks.
Many statet before that these sandvik wheels only excel on big hp grinders and I don't get till today why carlton uses the same wheel size from 35hp gas to 33 and 44hp diesel. Yip size matters, in any way.
Yes I completely agree, I have no idea why Carlton would ever sell a low horsepower machine with a Sandvik wheel on it. Common Sense would say to never do that. Now I'm going to be out $1,500
Marne can you recommend a good wheel for this machine I was actually looking into the Alpine Rhino wheel with four teeth on it. Seems like it would have a lot less resistance and much easier to change teeth
Topbuilder
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Sorry, 4-6" deep is all I run.
That's what she said, hahaha. Just kidding thank you for your input
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
I would recommend the greenwheel from greenteeth. I had it on my 1625 super jr and it bogged down a whole lot less.
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
I've never run anything but a diesel machine. So maybe my opinion here is not worth much. It would seem running less teeth would be similar to running a skip chain on a saw, you are in the cut, fat and happy for a while. But, you have less teeth cutting the same amount of wood which has to equal cutting surfaces getting dull faster. More time sharpening, changing teeth. I have always focused on developing techniques that produce the most chips... Limiting the surface area the wheel is in contact with, making 2 or three passes on a stump instead of 1. Raking chips out of the way so the pile is not eating rpms. Grind the sides of the pockets so they are smooth, no pocket bolts sticking out past the pockets. Changing teeth when you feel like you are wasting horse power or the chip size is getting lighter. Reducing swing speed to maintain higher rpms. Doing what ever you can do to reduce operation temps, a hot machine does not have the same power.
My 2 cents. Grind on brothers!
My 2 cents. Grind on brothers!
Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
I had a Carlton with the 35hp Vanguard and Sandvic wheel. I had no problems with it as far as power and cutting capability/speed. MY GUESS is that you are taking too big of a bite on each pass. When I dropped from the 44 diesel to the 35 gas, I found I needed to take smaller bites. but I made up the cutting time by running a faster swing, side to side. My understanding is that the side teeth primarily help keep chips thrown out of the cut, and do little actual cutting. They also help when making a Plunge cut down into the middle of a stump.
I would not remove them as I think it will increase wheel wear. I believe your problem will be solved by simply keeping very sharp teeth on the machine, and adjusting your cutting technique.
I would not remove them as I think it will increase wheel wear. I believe your problem will be solved by simply keeping very sharp teeth on the machine, and adjusting your cutting technique.
marne
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The Alpine wheels probably are well made from highest quality, I don't have a doubt they will work great too but I think all wheels are crazy overprized for what they are. I can't speak for GT as I never tried them but I think their greenwheel is not well suited for using the cutter head for lifting the machine or moving chips, as it is not a wheel.
While I'm not happy with the Multi-tip dealer in my country, I would give a MT wheel a try, it's cheaper and you can fit those tough alpine-teeth as well, MT-teeth are sometimes a little weak but work excellent in general.
Maybe it's even possible to drill holes in the MT wheel for fitting GT later, not sure because of the slots but worth a look.
While I'm not happy with the Multi-tip dealer in my country, I would give a MT wheel a try, it's cheaper and you can fit those tough alpine-teeth as well, MT-teeth are sometimes a little weak but work excellent in general.
Maybe it's even possible to drill holes in the MT wheel for fitting GT later, not sure because of the slots but worth a look.
Hey again mowingman, thanks for your input. unfortunately im only taking the bare minimum of a bite. maybe a 1/4-1/2 inch, new teeth, slow or fast swing. sometimes i love the machine depending on stump , but most of the time im disappointed. Again , not trying to bash carlton , the machine is amazing! I just think they need to consider a different cutting system for their low horsepower machines. i dont know if there is something wrong with my machine, but there is no reason i should have to slow my swing speed to a crawl with sharp teeth
Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
No, you should not have to slow down with the small cut you are taking each pass. I am really baffled by your problems with the cutting speed. I hope you can get it figured out. Something has got to be set up wrong, either in the engine performance, or the drive system/pulleys/belts/ etc ,on the machine.
Jeff
Jeff
Only 40 hrs on the machine, adjusted jack shaft belt, the only thing I can think is engine performance because hydraulic seem to be working fine period even though there's really no hydraulics to do with the cutting system. It has been the same since one hour on the machine
Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
I know it would cost you a good amount and require a few days in time, but how about taking it up to the factory in Spartanburg, and letting them evaluate the machine for you?
after spending the kind of money i did I don't think i should have to take 3 days off work, pay for gas and hotel, mileage on my truck, for them to tell me whats wrong with the machine. if anything they should fly their happy asses here! No support just plain sucks! And on top of everything its at my expense
40 hours on a set of teeth in this horsepower class is way too many!!! I would suggest all new teeth and then go grind - as teeth dull and performance goes down it happens so fractionally you hardly notice until all the sudden you realize the machine is cutting like crap.
On low horsepower machines I won't go over 20 hours. With higher horsepower I can put up with a little more horsepower lose due to inefficient teeth.
On low horsepower machines I won't go over 20 hours. With higher horsepower I can put up with a little more horsepower lose due to inefficient teeth.
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