Bar Brands: What's good and what's junk?

[james927]

Hi guys, I've read a lot here but never posted anything! I've got a variety of chainsaws, mostly Stihls, but also a surprisingly reliable old Homelite sez automatic, a Jonsered 52e, a Husqvarna 40, and a 455 Rancher I'm not so sure I like for such a new saw.

What I'm wondering is what brands of chainsaw bar are great/decent/junk. I've been buying old chainsaws through craigslist/flee markets for fun and I realized it might be worth it to buy junk saws if they have a decent bar/chain on them. Mostly wondering about craftsman/other homeowner bars. And I'm not trying to start a war, if you like a bar someones says is junk, I'll find out myself who's right! I used to think Homelite meant junk chainsaw, it sure didn't back in the 70's/80's.

And does anyone know a good/thorough bar mount pattern list of any sort. Acresinternet.com has been great for figuring that out on old saws, now if only I could find info on new saws.

Bar mount pattern link:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...e39f46cf37dbe4a088256e0d0051dd49?OpenDocument

 

[Definitive Dave]

Pretty subjective
For practical purposes any bar will do for a homeowner/cheapo saw.
For purposes of resale or pro use it might be regional perception.
In my area if a bar clearly says Stihl in the pictures the saw sells faster (fact not opinion). Model of saw doesn't seem to matter on this issue.
Bars I would happily own/run Stihl, Sugihara, Sumura, GB, Cannon, Oregon (only brand new, for smaller saws)
I avoid any MODERN bars with labeling of sears, craftsman, poulan, poulan pro, Husqvarna, Oregon (used) especially the intenze or whatever, homelite.
Chain, I use just Stihl or Oregon, we did a lot of side by side testing in the field and bench 2 years ago and concluded they were about equal in all ways except price
For vintage saws, I like a bar to look new and match the brand (and mount obviously) of the saw being rebuilt. I sometimes see a gorgeous saw fully rebuilt, painted, repop stickers and badges and then a generic bar and it is a little bit of a letdown.
Might be just me but I like the complete package in a restore.
Now what type of oil should you be looking for in a used saw that is a real question
Dave

 

[Warped5]

DD summed it up pretty well .. allow me to add that I prefer using bars with a replaceable tip.

 

[Franny K]

Hi guys, I've read a lot here but never posted anything! I've got a variety of chainsaws, mostly Stihls, but also a surprisingly reliable old Homelite sez automatic, a Jonsered 52e, a Husqvarna 40, and a 455 Rancher I'm not so sure I like for such a new saw.

What I'm wondering is what brands of chainsaw bar are great/decent/junk. I've been buying old chainsaws through craigslist/flee markets for fun and I realized it might be worth it to buy junk saws if they have a decent bar/chain on them. Mostly wondering about craftsman/other homeowner bars.
Bar mount pattern link:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...e39f46cf37dbe4a088256e0d0051dd49?OpenDocument

Probably the craftsman saws most likely are re badged something else is an oregon 041 mount. I would imagine you have run across the Oregon bar finder application that is incorporated into quite a few websites. Baileys being one.
For the 3/8 lo pro I am guessing you are asking about the ones with 7 tooth noses in Oregon labeled and most others (Stihl excluded)are a lower grade than the ones with nine tooth noses. Oregon pretty well spells out how the quality goes up. They also have relatively recently changed the naming so using their numbering system might be best.
copied from above For practical purposes any bar will do for a homeowner/cheapo saw.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

For practical purposes any bar will do for a homeowner/cheapo saw.

+1

Especially shorter bars where horizontal stiffness isn't a huge issue.

In my experience most bars get damaged, as in bent, pinched, overheated, etc. long before they wear out.

Take Care

 

[Definitive Dave]

DD summed it up pretty well .. allow me to add that I prefer using bars with a replaceable tip.

I certainly prefer a replaceable tip but have never actually worn one out and actually replaced it. Much easier to grab a new bar and get back to work
Around here a hard nose bar only gets used on a big saw for stumping by a few of the grinding companies.

 

[atv1965]

Cannon!

 

[Warped5]

I certainly prefer a replaceable tip but have never actually worn one out and actually replaced it. Much easier to grab a new bar and get back to work
Around here a hard nose bar only gets used on a big saw for stumping by a few of the grinding companies.

My point was (and I really shoulda said this) is that replaceable-tip bars are usually better made and lean toward commercial quality.

Also, when I buy a used saw its about a 50/50 chance that I'll need to replace the tip or the bar.

 

[Definitive Dave]

My point was (and I really shoulda said this) is that replaceable-tip bars are usually better made and lean toward commercial quality.

Also, when I buy a used saw its about a 50/50 chance that I'll need to replace the tip or the bar.

That makes sense, I just never thought about it, actually. More pieces means more money and hopefully better quality....at least until they add a sensor to alert us to bar groove wear, then it all goes to hell
DDAve

 

[nnero]

Has anyone used the new replaceable tip bar from baileys? Just came out not too long ago

 

[Ferguson system]

Top notch sawbars: Iggesund Forest R2, Cannon, GB titanium, Tsumura, and Sugihara.

 

[Jon1212]

My point was (and I really shoulda said this) is that replaceable-tip bars are usually better made and lean toward commercial quality.

Also, when I buy a used saw its about a 50/50 chance that I'll need to replace the tip or the bar.

Also, a solid formed bar(replaceable tip) is more durable than a laminated(non replaceable).

 

[Jon1212]

I like guide bars......

 

[wde_1978]

Huh , You guys have a "replaceable nose tip" fetish don't You!?

I have a 9 Years old non-replaceable nose tip Dolmar bar that I re-deptened the grove a few Years ago because the DLs of the chain were bottoming out.
By now the groove is getting a bit too wide , but the sprocket is still top notch.
By my limited experience the rails will give up before the sprocket craps out.
But maybe You guys use Your bars differently.

I am very happy with OEM Dolmar (Oregon) and Oregon replacement bars.
I do have a AMA Garden bar in use and noticed that the paint is already coming off at the rails.
I just started using it this Year , thus I'll have to see how it will hold up long term.
I also have a Iggesund Forest bar , which has yet to be put to use.
Non of these bars have replaceable nose tips and only the Iggesund Forest is milled out of solid steel.

The most expensive bar I ever purchased is my spare OEM Dolmar , closely followed by Oregon bars.
The Iggesund Forest bar was surprisingly affordable considering it is a 36".
The AMA Garden bar is the cheapest I ever purchased , it cost me as much as a 72DL chisel OEM Dolmar chain does.

 

[Definitive Dave]

I like guide bars......
View attachment 438622 View attachment 438624

Me too
most of the hanging bars are actually stacks of identical bars, though there are couple of stacks of oddball husky bars that need a new home.

Dave

 

[Four Paws]

I like guide bars......
View attachment 438622 View attachment 438624

I like that old Sandvik!

 

[Landmark]

I like total bars and they dont cost an arm and a leg. Look good too.

 

[Jon1212]

Me too
most of the hanging bars are actually stacks of identical bars, though there are couple of stacks of oddball husky bars that need a new home.

Dave

Oddball Husqvarna bars?........I'm listening...........

 

[Bluefish]

I just bought four 18" Carleton bars branded "tiger" for 1.50$ apiece. Put one on my 562 today. I will let you know how it goes. Just couldn't resist the price. Russ

 

[Definitive Dave]

the two stacks to the immediate left of the orange labeled Stihl bar are all Husqvarna bars of different types/sizes/brands
come on over and pick them up, riffraff is always welcome, if you need more ballast for the trip back I can throw in a few boxes of 030/031 and TS350 parts
Dave