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Bar chain combo .050 or .058

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by Coldfront, Jan 2, 2009.

  1. Coldfront

    Coldfront Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I'm looking to buy a new bar chain combo and on Bailey they list 2 combo's a .050 and a .058 gauge. The .058 cost a little more but is one better than the other?
     
  2. dustytools

    dustytools Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I would go with the .050 for no other reason other than that is what is available here locally.
     
  3. johnzski

    johnzski ArboristSite Operative

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    I would stick with .050 because it seems chains are easiest to find in this gauge
     
  4. Coldfront

    Coldfront Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Thanks, I ordered the .050 gauge Bar/Chain Combo for $23.95
    Seems like a real good deal. For my Husky 350

    18" Chainsaw Bar and Chain Combo (20NK-72)

    Item # BCC 18 SJ50
    Only $23.95

    "Get a great deal for your small professional saw. This combo includes a 18" ArborPro narrow kerf chainsaw bar and chain for one low price. The bar is made from select heat treated steel with induction hardened rails. The chain loop is our fast cutting WoodlandPRO 20NK narrow kerf chain, so you will be blazing through the wood. Your saw must be running .325 pitch on the drive sprocket."

    Warning: This bar and chain combo contains saw chain that is capable of kickback and could result in serious injury to the saw operator or bystanders. Do not use this bar and chain combo unless you are experienced in dealing with kickback. Saw chain with reduced kickback potential is available.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2009
  5. ronT2

    ronT2 AboristSite Guru

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    I have Bailey’s 20” x .050 ArborPRO bar on my Jonsered 2150 with a muffler mod, the same as your 350. It balances the saw great and cuts fine. It will pull the full bar but you can’t muscle it, just let it cut.

    The only problem I’ve had is with oiling. My bar had no way for the drive links to clear chips from the transfer hole. It would oil fine if you weren’t cutting anything but once you got into wood the chips would pack into the transfer hole and the B&C would dry up a little more than I’d like to see. So I took a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel on it and created a ramp out (similar to an Oregon Micro-Lite bar) so the chips will clear, it seems to help. Maybe they have corrected the problem since I bought mine.

    Here’s a picture of the unaltered transfer hole on Bailey’s 20” ArborPRO #APNK 20 SJ50. The hook in the center laminate creates the pocket.

    [​IMG]

    Oregon Micro-Lite #200MPBK095 bar has a clear shot out for chips.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. KsWoodsMan

    KsWoodsMan Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I've wondered if the sprocket and drivers might last longer with .058 chain vs. .050 chain since there is 16% more contact area. Same for chain stretch. There is more contact area in the rivets for extended wear. As far as the tie plates and cutters go, I am pretty sure they are identical between the 2 sets of chains. I doubt there is any difference in how they preform in the cut.

    No more chains than I go through in a year I probably won't notice much difference.
     

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