Bigsnowdog
ArboristSite Operative
I know a significant number here are filing enthusiasts, and have a question for those who use grinders. What grinder do you think is the best, and why?
Best chainsaw grinder
- Thread starter Bigsnowdog
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You are really asking two questions:
1) what's the best grinder?
2) what grinder should I buy?
I say it's two questions, because I wouldn't recommend to anybody not cutting and grinding for a production environment to drop the coin on a top-end Silvey. Likewise, I wouldn't recommend buying the all-plastic Harbor Freight model just because it's really cheap. There are a lot of price points between those two extremes.
What do you want to grind, and how many chains per week on average?
1) what's the best grinder?
2) what grinder should I buy?
I say it's two questions, because I wouldn't recommend to anybody not cutting and grinding for a production environment to drop the coin on a top-end Silvey. Likewise, I wouldn't recommend buying the all-plastic Harbor Freight model just because it's really cheap. There are a lot of price points between those two extremes.
What do you want to grind, and how many chains per week on average?
Bigsnowdog
ArboristSite Operative
I do not and will not buy Chinese crap. I value quality and precision in equipment. I own Stihl 460, 260, and 009 saws.
Depends on the week; could be 30, could be none.
Depends on the week; could be 30, could be none.
30? You're probably after a Tecomec, then, or an Oregon 511, something Italian-built. Major differences between the models are in the clamp and in the accuracy of the angle markings. Buy good wheels and dress 'em early and often. The Northern Tool unit is a decent buy if you don't mind taking the time to make everything work right. Out of the box it's a piece of junk, but it doesn't take a lot of work to make it a pretty decent unit. There's a thread somewhere covering the details.
tom ussery
ArboristSite Lurker
Best Grinder?
In my experience a 511Ax and a CBN Cyclone wheel will suit the needs of 90% of the round chain grinders. With that in mind I would love to try a Silvey with a Cyclone wheel, only because I broke down and bought a Silvey raker grinder and is the best thing going. Thats just my opinion Tom
In my experience a 511Ax and a CBN Cyclone wheel will suit the needs of 90% of the round chain grinders. With that in mind I would love to try a Silvey with a Cyclone wheel, only because I broke down and bought a Silvey raker grinder and is the best thing going. Thats just my opinion Tom
In my experience a 511Ax and a CBN Cyclone wheel will suit the needs of 90% of the round chain grinders. With that in mind I would love to try a Silvey with a Cyclone wheel, only because I broke down and bought a Silvey raker grinder and is the best thing going. Thats just my opinion Tom
I purchased a Silvey raker grinder also [ last year ] and really like it.
My first grinder was a Foley 308 and it sharpened [???] hundreds of chains in the 1970's. I went through 2 motors and at least 2 main spindles. Later, when I purchased my 1st Silvey 500 I started using the Foley 308 to do raker's.
There are several brands of grinders that will do a good job once you learn to use them and use the proper wheel with them.
There is a lot of satisfaction in sharpening your own chains. ( with a file or with a grinder )
re
Also interested in a new sharpener ,, any one with link to making northerns a better unit ?
Also Bar mount sharpner vs, taking off chain ... sure sounds better, but whats the catch ?
rt
Also interested in a new sharpener ,, any one with link to making northerns a better unit ?
Also Bar mount sharpner vs, taking off chain ... sure sounds better, but whats the catch ?
rt
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Under_Pressure
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, that's a Carlton branded Tecomec. I have the same one- it's a great deal IMO. That price is hardly more than what they usually want for a Chinese knockoff.
The catch is that a good bench-mount grinder gives you a lot more freedom to adjust angles in three dimensions. Bar-mount grinders only really adjust in two dimensions, and limited at that. It's my belief that the 10 degree up angle on chisel chains makes a noticeable difference.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
the nice thing about the silvey is when taken care of you'll get decent coin out of it if you decide to sell. now if i can find a good deal on a swingarm so i don't have to hand all my square , which sucks when i hit something ,. usually if there hit bad they turn round.
Likewise. Always looking for a Silvey or a Simington at a good price.
Silvey makes very good grinders and I like that they are American made and have been in business for years.
Like anything, they need to be maintained but I, myself have never had a motor problem and I have lots of time using solid steel CBN coated wheels.
I fell in love with the reversible motor right away.
Log Hogger
ArboristSite Operative
Here it is. All it took is a little patience and I got this one working well, but I doubt it would hold up under heavy use. If I were grinding 30 chains per week, I'd get the real thing instead of a Chinese knock-off.
+1 on pretty much all of madhatte's comments above (tried to rep you, but . . . )
I normally do not think of the Silvey grinders due to the price, and have never used one. But they do have a good reputation if you do a large number of chains, and can afford one, or can find a good deal on a used one in good condition.
I do not advise anyone to buy the $30 plastic grinders which I consider to be junk and a waste of money. I discourage people from buying the $100 Chinese knock off grinders, due to the uneven quality and the uncertain long term life and value. Plan to spend a bit of time to tune one of these up, with the possibility that you cannot (e.g. bent shaft, bad bearings, etc.), and plan to replace the wheels up front.
The Oregon grinders are the standard that others are compared to. They are made in Italy by Tecomec and also sold under the SpeedSharp and other names. You may find a good deal on them under the other names. Repair and replacement parts are readily available. They keep their value if you decide to sell it or upgrade later. They are the minimum that you should consider for the volume of chains you mention.
A bench mounted grinder lets you sharpen a batch of chains at one time. I have mine mounted on a thick board that I can clamp to any surface. I can set it up in my shop. I have clamped it outside to a picnic table on nice days to keep the noise and dust out of the house. I have run one in the field off of a generator.
The bar mount grinders have smaller, less powerful motors. They use smaller diameter wheels, which heat up the cutters more. They require you to mount each chain on the saw (hard to do batches of chains) unless you set it up on a spare bar in your vise. The only real advantages of bar mount grinders is when sharpening a hard-to-change chain, such as on a chainsaw mill, or if you get a 12v model that you want to run off of your truck battery in the field. I would consider one only as a secondary grinder for the volume you describe.
The Maxx grinder advertises a reversible motor, which seems like an important advantage, but in practice, millions of guys cut with chains ground on single directional grinders. The Maxx grinders also have received less favorable reviews from guys on A.S. that I respect.
Bottom line: Oregon 511ax, SpeedSharp, Tecomec Super Jolly, or equivalent ($300-$400). Silvey if you can afford one or get a good deal on a used one.
Philbert
I normally do not think of the Silvey grinders due to the price, and have never used one. But they do have a good reputation if you do a large number of chains, and can afford one, or can find a good deal on a used one in good condition.
I do not advise anyone to buy the $30 plastic grinders which I consider to be junk and a waste of money. I discourage people from buying the $100 Chinese knock off grinders, due to the uneven quality and the uncertain long term life and value. Plan to spend a bit of time to tune one of these up, with the possibility that you cannot (e.g. bent shaft, bad bearings, etc.), and plan to replace the wheels up front.
The Oregon grinders are the standard that others are compared to. They are made in Italy by Tecomec and also sold under the SpeedSharp and other names. You may find a good deal on them under the other names. Repair and replacement parts are readily available. They keep their value if you decide to sell it or upgrade later. They are the minimum that you should consider for the volume of chains you mention.
A bench mounted grinder lets you sharpen a batch of chains at one time. I have mine mounted on a thick board that I can clamp to any surface. I can set it up in my shop. I have clamped it outside to a picnic table on nice days to keep the noise and dust out of the house. I have run one in the field off of a generator.
The bar mount grinders have smaller, less powerful motors. They use smaller diameter wheels, which heat up the cutters more. They require you to mount each chain on the saw (hard to do batches of chains) unless you set it up on a spare bar in your vise. The only real advantages of bar mount grinders is when sharpening a hard-to-change chain, such as on a chainsaw mill, or if you get a 12v model that you want to run off of your truck battery in the field. I would consider one only as a secondary grinder for the volume you describe.
The Maxx grinder advertises a reversible motor, which seems like an important advantage, but in practice, millions of guys cut with chains ground on single directional grinders. The Maxx grinders also have received less favorable reviews from guys on A.S. that I respect.
Bottom line: Oregon 511ax, SpeedSharp, Tecomec Super Jolly, or equivalent ($300-$400). Silvey if you can afford one or get a good deal on a used one.
Philbert
P.S. Even an Oregon grinder requires a little but of tuning and set up as noted in other threads.
Take a little bit of time and smooth off any rough castings with emory paper. The new vises are self-centering; the older style vises take a few minutes to center. Mount a new chain in the grinder and try to match the factory angles - you will probably find that you need to adjust the angle scale marking plates on the grinder, or note where you have to set the Left, Right, and head tilt settings to match the factory chain.
Philbert
Take a little bit of time and smooth off any rough castings with emory paper. The new vises are self-centering; the older style vises take a few minutes to center. Mount a new chain in the grinder and try to match the factory angles - you will probably find that you need to adjust the angle scale marking plates on the grinder, or note where you have to set the Left, Right, and head tilt settings to match the factory chain.
Philbert
Bigsnowdog
ArboristSite Operative
Do the grinders throw a lot of debris in all directions? Do I need to set up some sort of barrier around the machine to prevent getting abrasive in other areas of the shop?
The Oregon type throws grit and dust mostly toward the rear. Don't use in your kitchen or around flammable liquids. I try to grind outside on nice days to keep the dust out of the house or shop. The grinders with reversible motors may throw grit/dust in other directions as well (?).
Any grinder has the potential for a wheel to explode, which would throw debris in all directions, so keeping the guards on and wearing safety glasses/goggles is recommended. A dust mask might be desired if working in a small, enclosed space (basement, small shop, etc.)
Philbert
