Best way to remove name etched into plastic top cover??

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Agrarian

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I have purchased a number of fixer-uppers where the prior owner has scratched their name or saw id into the plastic top cover or rear handle. I have ground this off but it always leaves that area with a non-glossy surface. Anybody got a better solution that actually fixes this?

I have a Foredom and none of the sample attachments has been able to restore the finish although the finest grit 1/4" sandpaper tubes do a good job at removing it. Do I need a buffing compound? Recommendations???
 
I have used spray polyurethane with some success but not on a spot but the entire cover. Best bet is to live with it or replace the cover.
 
A 5-step procedure that makes you want to buy another cover:
(1) Use a very sharp wood chisel to scrape off the scratched-in letters. Be careful and take off as little plastic as possible.
(2) Burnish the area with 100-grit sandpaper.
(3) Hone the same area with 400-grit sandpaper.
(4) Mix boiled linseed oil with Xylene (Xylol), about 50:50. Apply with fine steel wool, rubbing in.
(5) Repeat step 4 at least twice, allowing 24 hours between applications. Wipe clean.

If the letters are really scratched in deeply, the above will not work and nothing else will either.
 
A 5-step procedure that makes you want to buy another cover:
(1) Use a very sharp wood chisel to scrape off the scratched-in letters. Be careful and take off as little plastic as possible.
(2) Burnish the area with 100-grit sandpaper.
(3) Hone the same area with 400-grit sandpaper.
(4) Mix boiled linseed oil with Xylene (Xylol), about 50:50. Apply with fine steel wool, rubbing in.
(5) Repeat step 4 at least twice, allowing 24 hours between applications. Wipe clean.

If the letters are really scratched in deeply, the above will not work and nothing else will either.

Wow! That sounds like a PITA.
 
A 5-step procedure that makes you want to buy another cover:
(1) Use a very sharp wood chisel to scrape off the scratched-in letters. Be careful and take off as little plastic as possible.
(2) Burnish the area with 100-grit sandpaper.
(3) Hone the same area with 400-grit sandpaper.
(4) Mix boiled linseed oil with Xylene (Xylol), about 50:50. Apply with fine steel wool, rubbing in.
(5) Repeat step 4 at least twice, allowing 24 hours between applications. Wipe clean.

If the letters are really scratched in deeply, the above will not work and nothing else will either.

How long do you have to boil the linseed oil:crazy:
 
A 5-step procedure that makes you want to buy another cover:
(1) Use a very sharp wood chisel to scrape off the scratched-in letters. Be careful and take off as little plastic as possible.
(2) Burnish the area with 100-grit sandpaper.
(3) Hone the same area with 400-grit sandpaper.
(4) Mix boiled linseed oil with Xylene (Xylol), about 50:50. Apply with fine steel wool, rubbing in.
(5) Repeat step 4 at least twice, allowing 24 hours between applications. Wipe clean.

If the letters are really scratched in deeply, the above will not work and nothing else will either.

Well, this is something new to try! I can do steps 1-3 with the Foredom quickly so I am curious how well the Xylol mix will do.
 
I have used spray polyurethane with some success but not on a spot but the entire cover. Best bet is to live with it or replace the cover.
I would leave it but in one case it was a man's name and serial number. Those were the good ole days when you didn't have to worry about giving that out.
 
Agrarian if your just cleaning up a work saw hit the spot with some 80 grit and use plastic bondo like the body guys use on bumpers. Sand it and paint with a plastic paint. Krylon Duplex I think is what I use. It's for painting patio chairs and such, matches faded Stihl orange so work saw only. Works best to paint all the orange on the saw. Ken
 
Agrarian if your just cleaning up a work saw hit the spot with some 80 grit and use plastic bondo like the body guys use on bumpers. Sand it and paint with a plastic paint. Krylon Duplex I think is what I use. It's for painting patio chairs and such, matches faded Stihl orange so work saw only. Works best to paint all the orange on the saw. Ken

Thanks, if I were doing this for a saw I would use, this could work but I will be selling most of these saws eventually and painted saws never look normal to me, especially painted plastic. I was hoping to do a spot fix only, not the whole saw. The plastic has the right color, I just need it to look glossy where I ground the name off.
 
Thanks, if I were doing this for a saw I would use, this could work but I will be selling most of these saws eventually and painted saws never look normal to me, especially painted plastic. I was hoping to do a spot fix only, not the whole saw. The plastic has the right color, I just need it to look glossy where I ground the name off.
Easiest way is sand it of and hold a propane torch a ways backs and get a little closer until it glosses and don't forget to keep the flame moving all these guys make it sound complicated I found about 8-10 inches off the plastic works great but as I said before biggest thing is to keep the flame moving and not letting it get to close if you sand it the flame will smooth it out no need mix things up and take a hour to do it it will take ten minutes and assuming the etched name is on the underside of the cover no one will care any ways


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Thanks, the propane torch approach seems to be easy so I'll give it a try. In every case the etched name have been on either the top cover or on the rear tank/handle and always on the outside.
 
Well, this is something new to try! I can do steps 1-3 with the Foredom quickly so I am curious how well the Xylol mix will do.
The Xylol mixed with BLS simply slows down the drying reaction that you would otherwise obtain with mineral spirits mixed with BLS. So, it will set in better and hide whatever the 400 grit leaves behind. BUT, it takes time.

Meanwhile, go out and cut wood with a saw that runs.
 
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