Best way to remove name etched into plastic top cover??

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A 5-step procedure that makes you want to buy another cover:
(1) Use a very sharp wood chisel to scrape off the scratched-in letters. Be careful and take off as little plastic as possible.
(2) Burnish the area with 100-grit sandpaper.
(3) Hone the same area with 400-grit sandpaper.
(4) Mix boiled linseed oil with Xylene (Xylol), about 50:50. Apply with fine steel wool, rubbing in.
(5) Repeat step 4 at least twice, allowing 24 hours between applications. Wipe clean.

If the letters are really scratched in deeply, the above will not work and nothing else will either.

It is. As others have told me, "Edwin, you have way too much time on your hands."

Impressive. Another example of the results when you combine elbow grease and ingenuity.
 
I love this friggin Quote!!!! Put a pipe on it and no one will giva crap what she looks like!!!! Get out there and sling some chips...fella's!!!!
I'm doin the muffler on a ms391... I'm thinking 3/8 inch pipe???? What's the math on the actual formula for back pressure??? Or rule of thumb on back pressure??? Do you tune slightly rich on the non-pro type saws as a general rule?
 
Hey there pep's.... You're telling me that you lightly sand the plastic of a cover or whatever... Then you lightly melt that cover or "area" with your torch... I think heat gun on high??? For a few minutes and that will melt it kinda to liquid and then it solidifies and leaves you with a shiny finish???? The heat gun seems safer to me but is there something with the torch flame that actually works better? I would think the opposite because the carbon (smoke) of the torch could very quickly discolor the plastic? Anyone got a video link of them actually doing this? All I can think of is talking with the fireman who showed up way to late to put out my shop fire... Saying something like you were trying to do what??? You should have just ran s half inch pipe out the muffler... Then nobody would've cared what it friggin looked like!!!! PS. This is my new favorite line!!!! "Run a pipe out the muffler and nobody will care what the hell it looks like!!!"
 
Send it to Randy and get a sticker put over it !
I second the sticker solution. Every saw head loves a bad ass sticker on top of his saw! Get on of those 3d ones (bubble sticker, like the xp ones) and it will hide any engraving undet it.
 
Flat piece of steel like a putty knife with wooden handle heated with torch then just lay it flat to the etching.

Practice on a Poulan or Craftsman. No great loss if the whole plastic saw evaporates in smoke.

I would not be too concerned about some ones name being etched on if I had receipts or could prove where I got the stuff legally so as to show any possible investigators later. I keep a heads up and if a seller would not give me a written receipt I decline buying stuff with others names carved in stone, but again I'm kinda a suspicious guy when buying stuff and want receipts, with ID DL numbers. (man has got to protect his backside)

I would be more alert if I noticed where someone had purposely tried to erase a etched ID on a piece of eq more so than if I could see the previous etching.:oops:Huh oh, that looks like someone has purposely tried to hide something sort of thing!
 
Flat piece of steel like a putty knife with wooden handle heated with torch then just lay it flat to the etching.

Practice on a Poulan or Craftsman. No great loss if the whole plastic saw evaporates in smoke.

I would not be too concerned about some ones name being etched on if I had receipts or could prove where I got the stuff legally so as to show any possible investigators later. I keep a heads up and if a seller would not give me a written receipt I decline buying stuff with others names carved in stone, but again I'm kinda a suspicious guy when buying stuff and want receipts, with ID DL numbers. (man has got to protect his backside)

I would be more alert if I noticed where someone had purposely tried to erase a etched ID on a piece of eq more so than if I could see the previous etching.:oops:Huh oh, that looks like someone has purposely tried to hide something sort of thing!



If you see the guy tried to file numbers then he stold it from one of our fellow tree dude's and he should get his ass kicked and you should take the saw ...and try to find its rightful owner! That's what I'd do! I'm not gonna help a crackhead to rob my fellow tree service professionals, and that's for damn sure! I know how much it hurts to have to replace your equipment to go to work! Dang it man... 10:30 Friday night, just startin to relax, and now I want to choke out a dirt bag! !
 
I wouldnt assume that the OP bought stolen saws. I have bought some power equiptment that had the name of the owner etched in, that was NOT stolen and also wanted to turn a buck on it and didnt want anyones name on it.
 
I wouldnt assume that the OP bought stolen saws. I have bought some power equiptment that had the name of the owner etched in, that was NOT stolen and also wanted to turn a buck on it and didnt want anyones name on it.

Agreed. I have purchased a number of builder/project saws from Dealers that were former Tree Service saws with etched names, spray paint, or some other distinguishing marks.
 
It's kind of a pain to remove someone else's name, most times I'd just replace the plastic..

Yeah, that's an easy solution in most instances. Though if I am keeping the saw I don't really mind. It's gonna get scratched up, dinged, and chipped, so no big deal.
 
Yeah... I'm Redneck! Them's battle scares! I have to admit I've bought a few pieces from Huztl or whatever and had them available at the sale of a reworked tool to give the buyer the option of making it better looking if that's their choice. Really... Anyone building saws for resale kinda needs to have this as an option. I try to look on eBay for clean OEM covers to have with the China Orange... Somewhere deep down it kinda still tickles a hair on the back of my neck to put a piece of new cheap plastic on an old Stihl or Husk-Q that you've taken the time to cleanup transfers and round the sharp edges off then slap some import orange on it???

You can't powder coat plastic with the correct orange though...?

I'm thinking about re-painting bars that have been cleaned up??? I don't have a stenciled setup or sticker available for bars I know of??! And I saw a spray can at the auto parts that was kinda off white Wimbulton White?? Can't spell ... Like tennis deal... What do you buys that touch up bars use? And the color?
 
And I know that this question isn't probly being ask in the right place or whatever... But I saw two 028 AV Woodboss's on eBay and got to thinking!!! "Always real dangerous for me it seems!" and with shipping they got here with about seventy into each saw. They're both 44's as it turns out and as I'm a hus-Q 350 guy from childhood it's got me kinda interested... These guys are pretty complete... Only a few lines (rubber) and air filter missing but all the majors intact!!!. I didn't even follow my regular procedure ...(and now I'm kicking myself in the rear). I usually remove all my covers and then bag and rubber band my carb to water proof it a bit then hit them with a little electric pressure washer hooked to the hot side of my shop sink... So in just a jiffy the saws majors are really pretty clean... I toss them on a repurposed fridge rack and hit them with the hand held blower... Because it has the exhaust ported into to the blower tube. This gives me really dry air with lots of volume and I spend some time so they get pretty dry... Then I spray them down with one of two caned lubes depending on the time they will set and the needed application ... PB is my go to for the most part. I just grabbed the T27 to rip off these jugs so I'd know what I had. The cranks are good and tight... And as I was going threw my adapter plates to test the bottom seals I figured... Hey since I can still buy the parts I'll get some new seals in there... I think they have earned that at this point! The Pistons are / were smoked but in just a few minutes with 320 and some lube all the aluminum transfer is gone and I got fancy and rubbed in a nice looking redneck cross hatch... It's crazy because I got hot on finding an aftermarket jug in 45mm for the 350... 345 rehabs that I bought six or seven versions and ground my way threw the cylinder linings in various areas and with various tools to determine the best product to stock for these rebuilds... So I have been killing Nikasil and non-Nikasil jugs from everywhere in the universe for the last year. So, I'm kinda up close and personal with cylinders and their linings right now. These saws where work saws... Not out of an estate auction where the guy loved and treated them right!!! And after what... Like twenty plus years of service??? They are so amazingly solid and of such Royal quality that a few gental swirls with 320 wet/dry coated in some left over 5w-20 made them look new... Cutting the aluminum off the lining was such a pleasure... To watch the base metal react to the scoring action of the sand paper was quite impressive. I cleaned one up and brought it into the house and it's holding down my nightstand I was so impressed!!! MAD with love for these antique West German?manufactured hunks of metal!!!

Ok... The reality sets in and I look at these jugs compared to jugs I know sling chips and they give me a headache ! The intake and exhaust ports are extremely restrictive looking... The transfers look ok... I haven't had time to play with the wheel and I don't want to! Some other RockStar! Has done the study and found the least painful remedy! I'm really hoping one of you guys can remember the link or know who??? Got rubber lines and new filters ordered up and I'm ready to either start porting these "Beast" and brazing my exhaust pipes or run! Just kidding.... I have to see how one of these saws runs with the 1/2 pound of aluminum from the intake and exhaust runs! I'm hoping I can get one really cooking then find someone local to break out a stocker to compare to. All I've read is the 028 is a pig... But they run forever. That's extremely apparent in the cylinder lining ... I bought a used oem jug and plug... A metor plug and one I can't remember? Two sets of Camber rings... So, I'm thinking about reringing the oem... And sticking the metor in the other ... Any inputs, thoughts or insights are greatly appriated. It's really kinda funny that two years ago my then kinda unknown neighbor... Who's now my buddy! Was doing his part time firewood hustler business with a new...well... One year old ms391 and he wanted the pro saw ??? 362?? 59cc ?? with the computer and in our conversation he said the saw shop said $200 trade in. He looked depressed as he was explaining that he had spent $500? The year before... "I got 15 chainsaws and the last thing I need is another chainsaw was what I was thinking!" When I said well hell man... I'll give ya $250 cash if the fifty will help you get the saw you really need or want. Now here I am two years later with a sweet 024...with two bars (one says West Germany)... It's a wall hanger! Mint! An 034 &036 that had to be bought as a pair... The 391... I love that saw and it never leaves the pickup! A 661 my firewood friend got over his head on... It never gets used... But I start it up every few days and keep the bottle gas in it cause it sounds like a dirt bike!!! And this pair of 028's I gotta revive! I gotta do it so in twenty years from now, the kid whose just starting out cutting grass like I was 35 years ago, can get one handed to him the day he tells me his chainsaw don't work and with a big smile I can say don't worry youngin' ...This one will! I gotta admit I really like both shades of orange....✔️ Any leads on the 028 porting leads are greatly appriated! And everyone of you fellas on this site are great... Real lucky to have so many good people ... From all corners able to talk shop! Very GRATEFUL, Dave
 
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