bolted granberg mill

[Jumpsuit]

Anyone drill through the nose end adjustment bar/clamping face in order to attach the bar at the sprocket? I'm thinking of doing this for rigidity of the mill sake rather than need the extra length. The hole would then be tapped or else would have to attach a nut down the adjustment bar with a really long socket.

 

[pond hopper]

I have mine drilled for ease of a chain swap. Didn't notice any difference in how rigid the mill was. Never had any trouble with clamp slippage.

 

[BobL]

Anyone drill through the nose end adjustment bar/clamping face in order to attach the bar at the sprocket? I'm thinking of doing this for rigidity of the mill sake rather than need the extra length..

All of my sprocket bars have holes through the nose but I don't think it does anything for mill rigidity.
The way to get greater rigidity is to use more uprights, bolt the bar to the bar bolts and use more cross bracing.

The hole would then be tapped or else would have to attach a nut down the adjustment bar with a really long socket

I don't understand what you mean by this

 

[Jumpsuit]

The hole would then be tapped or else would have to attach a nut down the adjustment bar with a really long socket.

I don't understand what you mean by this

When I wrote that I hadn't taken a very good look at the granberg part that needs to be drilled. which is the upright near the nose, an inverted "T". For some reason, I thought the two short ends of the "T" were welded shut, so that the bar bolt would have to be tightened from the long end of the "T" top end of the upright. But the short ends are open. So a regular wrench will work fine. and tapping anything seems like overkill here. I am only planning on bolting the nose end because I have had experiences (with someone else's GB) where the clamp on that end seems to want to slip. Perhaps the clamps weren't torqued properly.