Bolting bar to mill

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yukon7

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I was wondering if anyone has drilled and tapped an Alaskan mill to bolt on bar? I have drilled thru the sprocket center ( 5/16 hole) before, but haven't fastened on power head end with bolts. I was wondering if one bolt would do, maybe 1/2 inch, or two smaller maybe 5/16s ? I see that Will Malloff recommends using 3 bolts for a 090, but it may be overkill on a smaller saw (394).
Thanks Jon
 
I want to do it to my Granburg and probably will next time I mill so I can change chains with out removing the mill.

I'll probably use two 5/16" bolts....on in the center of either end; power head and tip. I'll then just tap the bottom of the uprights to 5/16" NF using good grade 5 or 8 hardware and a lock but under the bolt head.


Another mod I would do is to notch the power head upright if using a Granburg MKIII and a 394. I find keeping the chain tight really helps a milling bar and with the from tension on my '94's its almost impossible with the mill in place.

I also leave my bucking spikes in place....that air space is welcome between the mill and muffler alon those long cuts.
 
Do you mean notching or drilling for screw driver access ? I just finished doing that on mine, drilled a 3/8 hole in line with the tensioning screw, before I used a right angle screw driver but it was awkward.
Yeah I think a 5/16 bolt should be plenty, also then the same wrench fits everything.
 
I'm using a single 8 mm (~5/16") allen bolt on the inboard side and a 1/4" hole through the bar nose on my small (25") mill
bottom.jpg

I also leave my bucking spikes in place....that air space is welcome between the mill and muffler alon those long cuts.
For anyone with a forward facing muffler and doing a lot of milling I recommend this exhaust mod as it directs the exhaust away from the operator.
all2.jpg
 
Right on Bob, I will have to have a look at my muffler and see, I know I have to wear a glove on my right hand due to the heat. Funny that you posted that picture as I was just looking online for pictures of a wheeled thrust skid.
How do you like the wheels as opposed to a skid? I was just looking at one with just one wheel centered. Seems to me I read somewhere that the wheels caused the mill to climb.
Thanks, Jon
 
How do you like the wheels as opposed to a skid? I was just looking at one with just one wheel centered. Seems to me I read somewhere that the wheels caused the mill to climb.

All of my mills have wheels
There's no doubt that a light mill/saw will tend to climb while cutting the top half of the log and tend to go down (but of course are prevented from rowing so by the log rails or log) when cutting the bottom half.
The BIL mill has 4 wheels, fixed position bottom wheels and adjustable height top wheels but being so heavy it does really ride up anyway.
On my small mill, when cutting the top half of the log, I like the wheels to be adjustable for height as shown in the photo. This means I can adjust the wheels to ride on the middle of the log.
Generally I like the wheels better than skids except when there are deep grooves in the bark, not that skids are much better in that case either.

Bottomlong.jpg
 
Bob's trick with the exhaust makes the chips go away along with the heat when its warm . Ive mounted a 60 '' bar with 2 1/4 " grade 8 button head bolts ,with red lockite . It makes the bar bow up some but not a problem with rustick tables . I prefer wheeles and steep slope , with lots of used cooking oil on the bar, milling makes me hungry but i can deal with it .
 
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