Bore cutting? (2)

[husq2100]

Bore cutting, when is it used?

any links to video's?

Cheers, Serg

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Is this what you were looking for? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVH3ShnhMRA

 

[ropensaddle]

Bore cutting, when is it used?

any links to video's?

Cheers, Serg

Only if you have too is my opinion.

 

[ms310]

I find that very hard on the tip of the bar!

 

[Meadow Beaver]

That's why you use a hardnose bar.

 

[ms310]

so maybe i am a little green

That's why you use a hardnose bar.

I am running a rollomatic es bar on my stihl what is the difference?

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Sprocket nose bars wear out fast if you do alot of bore cutting. Hard nose bars have cobalt tips that last longer, and they don't have sprockets to blow out.

 

[tdi-rick]

Bore cutting, when is it used?

any links to video's?

Cheers, Serg

mortising fence posts for starters.

2. The Bore Cut - Trees with backward or forward lean pose some difficulty and generally require the formation of a proper hinge prior to completing the back cut. On these trees it is recommended that the logger use the bore or plunge cut as the first step in making a back cut.

When attempting a bore cut, it is very important to always use the attack corner of the chain saw bar. The attack corner is the bottom corner of the bar. Never use the kickback or top corner as kickback might result. It is also very important for the teeth to be properly filed as discussed earlier and that the saw be run at maximum RPM.

Swing in on attack corner, run saw through tree.

From here http://www.forestapps.com/tips/backcut/backcut.htm

Have to do one soon on a stump so I can burn it out.

 

[True Blue Sam]

Here is a video that shows the process. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB243WXwVcw Start with the lower corner of the bar to bury the nose, rotate around the nose and push through parallel to the hinge. Don't let the bar blow out through the hinge.

 

[ropensaddle]

Ten million or more cuts maybe four could be classified as bore cuts and were not needed.

 

[smokechase II]

Attempt at advice

Successful boring should virtually always be the same technique.

Be aware that in softer woods a cutter can get into bad habits that could come to bite him in harder woods.

I saw an official Husky video from Sweden when their pro was boring straight in. Nice soft spruce. Straight in will not work on every wood.

=============

Before you start boring as a falling technique I'd recommend boring while bucking. No need to be distracted by too many other hazards.

Have someone give you a demo and discussion. Someone with all their teeth and fingers.

Start boring on softer woods and work up to hardwoods then to dead but not rotten.

The harder a wood is the more likely it is to freeze the chain up.
Part of the strategy to avoid a kick-back (stated above) is to have the saw at full rpm's.
This works if you're saw will keep pulling and not get bound. However, if you have more energy the equal and opposit reaction will be greater. A Caveat.

A longer bar, a big favorite where I'm from and with good reason, will have greater leverage when in a kick-back. Another caveat.

The tips do wear out much quicker with repetetive boring.

Boring is generally not a good idea falling rotten trees.

All the best

 

[Burvol]

I would agree with smoke chase and say that boring is something to do after your an accomplished sawyer, and I only use it as a "strap cut" when when cutting hard leaners, wind, really tall timber with limb weight and lean ect.

 

[ssiimmss]

boring is also used when bucking logs that are under tension, where you can not come up from the bottom because it is touching the ground. cut in from the top about 1/4 of the diameter then bore through the lower 1/4 and to the ground; you can now finish your cut from the bottom up and you wont have to deal with pinching your saw. Also, a little twist of the wrist once you've started to bore, will keep the saw from wanting to vibrate in the cut.:greenchainsaw:

 

[True Blue Sam]

Thanks for the tip!

(Also, a little twist of the wrist once you've started to bore, will keep the saw from wanting to vibrate in the cut.....(SSIIMMSS)

Thanks, I will try that. I filed the depth gauges to .035 on my 346xp to get a little more cutting speed, and now that chain will not bore in hickory. It works OK with oak, but the harder wood makes it buck.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Most of the time you don't need to bore cut anyways.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Only time I have ever used a bore cut is when felling. The picture posted to me is wrong in the fact that the top of the saw is facing the hinge. When I do bore I come in from the back toward the hinge.
For those of you that are weekend cutters, take a chain and strap the tree above your cut with a heavy chain. I do this if I am topping. If the tree barberschairs on you it can be a deadly situation.
I generally saw a bit of the sides out after boring to make the hinge a bit narrower unless I am trying to pull the tree a bit to one side, but will still take a bit from the nonholding side.
The thing about boring is that when you take the back out of a tree after it has been bored, it really takes off. Not much popping or creaking to let you know it is about to go.
I have dropped a lot of alder and it splits easily. Not taking care to prep the cuts properly can be costly, both to ruined wood and to bodily injury.

As far as bucking, I take, depending on how much energy is stored in the log and which way it is going to want to go, hopefully up or down. Never stand on the outside and cut on a loaded log, no matter how small. As a rule I take out the far side first. If the log wants to drop, I draw the saw across the top, bringing it back toward me and down leaving a small piece of wood in the middle, bore back in to the cut initially taken on the far side and take it out the bottom. I do this while bringing the saw back and forth watching the top cut for movement. If it is opening you are about to pinch, if closing continue to cut, when finished the center should breakout, if not undercutting it is a small thing to release it.
For the ones that want to raise a bit, I do an initial undercut, bringing the bar back and up to take out a 3rd of the side then over the top and down. I try to meet the undercut on the far side before it starts to break, thereby keeping it from slabbing. This all takes time and experience. I have seen folks that get hung on seemingly every cut they put a saw in and their saws show it from jerking the mounts out of them.
Loaded wood is nothing to play russian roulette with. One oldtimer had worked as a faller most of his life was at home doing some backyard cleaning. He touched a loaded vinemaple and it drove the handle of the saw into his chest killing him. It was only a 6inch tree that did that.

Be safe and wear the safety gear, your family needs you.

 

[True Blue Sam]

You can bore form either side of the tree unless you have filed for an extra aggressive bite. It is prudent to bore back of the hinge a bit, then take out a bit more to have your hinge the thickness you want. When boring form both sides, a slight downward angle will make the cuts intersect, eliminating bypassed wood on the butt. Bypassed wood can become a missile in a circular sawmill. It is a great safety advantage to be able to set up your tree, pause to check for people, pets, the skidder, etc., then turn the tree loose and make your exit from the stump.

 

[wvlogger]

i use bore cut in hard wood so they won't split or try to barberchair hickory is bad about that

 

[madhatte]

I use bore cuts in blowdowns all the time. It helps manage the complex tensions some. Still, be careful. It ain't rocket science but it might as well be.

 

[miller1]

I bore cut this log because of the tension on it, it worked great but i probably should have come up from the bottom, i just wanted to try it out.
Am i right in saying this was the wrong place for a bore cut? The bottom was off the groung by about 8" before i cut it.