Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

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"The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."


I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.
 
gyrfalcon said:
"The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."


I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.
Click to expand...

i haven't been able to find a rim type clutch for this saw. the part number for the clutch, not the drum, is 579551001 and is available with that number as a husqvarna part, but i haven't been able to find a the husky that uses it. the oregon parts finder doesn't seem to list the 5020, so that's no help. i couldn't find any help on ebay or google. but there mus be a rim type clutch drum that would work. i'll keep looking.

here's a quote from gregg at leftcoastsupliies.com:

"Howdy,
Well, I turned the IPL's upside down and shook em but, nothing came out. It seems as though all the parts for that 5020 are peculiar to that model. Not to say there isn't something out there that would work but, at this point you would need to have the saw, and a box of sprockets, and bearings in front of you.
Regards
Gregg"

partstree dot com, one of my mains suppliers list almost no parts for the 5020.
 
gyrfalcon said:
"The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."


I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.
Click to expand...

I don't have an answer, but I'm 97% sure that Modifiedmark, JeremiahJohnson, or one of the other Poulan guys with experience with the 5020 know what rim sprocket will work on the 5020.
 
Chris J. said:
I don't have an answer, but I'm 97% sure that Modifiedmark, JeremiahJohnson, or one of the other Poulan guys with experience with the 5020 know what rim sprocket will work on the 5020.
Click to expand...

one good thing is, i think, the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft, not the clutch, which simplifies things. and as i recall it is an outboard type clutch. so if you could find another saw with the same diameter clutch and crankshaft, it might work. a husqvarna 350 is a possibility. anyway, i'm hoping someone who's solved this problem will chime in.

maybe someone should start a new thread for this subject.
 
I used a set up from a echo and took about 5mins to find one that fit (only because I was dared to find one :laugh: ) I just wanted to test 325 out on the saw.
I went back to 3/8 and 16"

Thread with info on it http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-5020/?nowap

The echo drum is narrower but worked fine for me being a oem drum.

Used on 50cc echo saws too going by this off baileys. Make sure your drum you are using isnt wore out or warped from beginning. I've had that happen on a 166 before.

Echo: CS-400, CS-400EVL, CS-400EVLP, CS-440EVL, CS-510, CS-520, CS-530, CS-3600, CS-3900, CS-4400, CS-5100 (after SN 134504)
Replaces Echo Part Number: A556000021 and A556000020
John Deere 45
Replaces Oregon Part Numbers 30869
Fits Crankshaft Diameter .3937 (10mm)
Drive Sprocket Bearing ORF 37509
Rim Spline Size Small 7 tooth (RSS)
Optional Replacement Rim Pitch and Tooth Choices (sold separately)

ORF 11892 325" x 7
ORF 11891 325" x 8
ORF 18720 375" x 7



One I used came right off a echo 3900 parts saw.


Echo 17510535431
 
3900partssaw002.jpg

3citestsaws008_zpsaa490b47.jpg
pp502av006_zpscd4f76b1.jpg
3citestsaws005_zpsd90b94b6.jpg
325502038545001_zps10d2ea1b.jpg
 
heyduke said:
one good thing is, i think, the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft, not the clutch, which simplifies things. and as i recall it is an outboard type clutch. so if you could find another saw with the same diameter clutch and crankshaft, it might work. a husqvarna 350 is a possibility. anyway, i'm hoping someone who's solved this problem will chime in.

maybe someone should start a new thread for this subject.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. the 5020 seems to be an odd poulan without much in common with other models. i'll order a clutch drum and rim today.
 
I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.
Click to expand...

I've thrown the chain off the 5020 as well. I thought I was doing something wrong but interesting to hear of someone else having a problem.

So if I'm reading the information above correctly, adding these 2 parts to a PP5020:

ORF 18720
Echo 17510535431

....would allow you to run a 3/8" chain and help alleviate the chain jumping, or at least reduce the damage when it does jump?

I have not loved the included chain and have considered the advise to go to a smaller bar. I have a chain and 18" on order.
 
zuren said:
I've thrown the chain off the 5020 as well. I thought I was doing something wrong but interesting to hear of someone else having a problem.

So if I'm reading the information above correctly, adding these 2 parts to a PP5020:

ORF 18720
Echo 17510535431

....would allow you to run a 3/8" chain and help alleviate the chain jumping, or at least reduce the damage when it does jump?

I have not loved the included chain and have considered the advise to go to a smaller bar. I have a chain and 18" on order.
Click to expand...

you can get both the clutch drum and the rim from baileys here are the numbers:

ORF 513442 OREGON RIM & DRUM (.325 X 7) ECHO CS 400 20.70
ORF 18720 OREGON RIM SPROCKET (SM7) .375 X 7 TOOTH 7.19

it's interesting, i just acquired my 3rd 5020. only the first was for me. the first two had no problems with the chain but the third could not be adjusted for chain tension and the first time i put it in wood the chain jumped off the bar. i think the drive sprocket has the wrong pitch, probably .325. that may explain your problem too. i'll put a rim on it and throw away the vanguard chain. it's probably streatched anyway.
 
gyrfalcon said:
"The 3/8s sprocket is a spur and the clutch is a common looking Poulan style 2 shoe which appears small but this style has been around for many years with good service on up to 60cc models so the clutch dont concern me at all."


I seem to have a problem throwing chains. I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the chain properly. After throwing my last chain, and filing off the burs on the damage drive links I revved up the saw quite a bit. Seemed to have the right tension and was working fine... Then I think I let off the throttle a bit and gave it more and the damn thing threw the chain at high-rpm.

So I'm on my second wrecked chain with this saw.

I was thinking about replacing the sprocket and getting a new bar. Could this chainsaw be re-fitted with a floating sprocket? If it could, at least I wouldn't destroy the drive links if the chain was thrown.
Click to expand...

gyrfalcon-
i received my 3rd 5020 two days ago, $126 to my door.. everything was fine except that the chain would not adjust properly. i would set it up and run it then it would tighten up rather that get loose. this saw was for a customer who came to pick it up. when we put it in some wood, after the first cut the chain was thrown violently, high rpm, chain and chain catcher damaged. what i found was that the vanguard chain had several stiff links, tie strap to cutter, and as it ran it would get tighter. i made up a new carlton 70dl chain and everything was fine, today, a new clutch drum and rim arrived at my door. i installed it on one of my two 5020's. i remounted the vanguard chain and the same thing happened. the chain tightened after running, re-adjusted it and it tightened again. there seems to be a problem with the oregon vanguard chain. i made up a new 70dl carlton chain and everything is fine. i don't think there is anything wrong with the sprockets. one saw had the stock sprocket, the other the an echo rim type. i think it is defective chain. the vanguard loops are going into my concrete reinforcement collection. hope this helps.
 
First time poster. Got my 5020AV today as a refurb for $129, free shipping. Unfortunately, it does not have a scrench and I need to order one in. I don't have an abundance of tools around (moved recently and most of my stuff is in storage a long ways away!). Anyone know the wrench sizes so I can order one in?
 
Jlmoulto said:
First time poster. Got my 5020AV today as a refurb for $129, free shipping. Unfortunately, it does not have a scrench and I need to order one in. I don't have an abundance of tools around (moved recently and most of my stuff is in storage a long ways away!). Anyone know the wrench sizes so I can order one in?
Click to expand...

your scrench should be 19mm on the big end and 13mm on the other, the most common type of scrench. you can find one at almost any hardware store of chainsaw dealer. it won't fit correctly in the handle but that's no big deal.
 
heyduke said:
your scrench should be 19mm on the big end and 13mm on the other, the most common type of scrench. you can find one at almost any hardware store of chainsaw dealer. it won't fit correctly in the handle but that's no big deal.
Click to expand...
Perfect. That helps a lot. Not a lot of choices here's up north so often have to order from online

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
So, had a chance to start the chainsaw yesterday for the first time. Started after three pulls. Settled in to a steady idle after twenty to thirty seconds. Seems like a pretty decent running saw!

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
i don't think theres too much long term info so i thought i'd drop some lines here again. I still have the saw and seems to work well, i think I'll need to replace the drum and/or clutch soon. it seems to be the weakest part of the saw.
the air filter seems unique to this new poulan model (this 5020 and the 40cc model) and has trouble sealing after the first removal. so im using silicone to prevent anything getting inside the carburator (a tip from this forum:yes:).
i had a bar oil in the gas tank mistake :dumb2: . i cleaned the tank and the saw was smokey the first minutes but seems that was it!.

spare parts for this particular saw seem difficult to find in my part of the globe that could be a concern in the future but i still have the ebay option if it comes to that (like looking for an extra air filter)

i have it factory set in all aspects but im thinking of making carb adjustments.

also i think i read here of enlarging some holes in the muffer. is it worth it? and if so does anyone have a photo of the process or parts that need to be altered?

on other news i might add a bigger saw this year
 

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