Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

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Cliff R said:
"Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. (come to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast)"

I have some friends who own property, chain saw(s), and cut wood on occassion. Most of them are professionals at one career or another, and quite intelligent. IF you ask any of them what size saw they own or just bought, they will IMMEDIATELY answer 20" (or whatever bar length it has). They will seldom know the model number, and it's a rare as a lottery ticket if the know the engine displacement, power ratings, or any other specs about the saw, such as what pitch the chain is and how many drive links it has, etc.

Most AS members will know quite a bit about, if not most of the specifics on their chain saw and other power equipement, sort of like a Muscle Car enthusiast knows the spec's of the engine he just built for his 69 Chevelle......Cliff
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Yup, in the real world w/ the people I know I'm the saw guy. :alien2: I even help my dealer out from time to time.

I get on here an its :check:

I also Thank you Mark, Great Review! :msp_thumbup:
 
Cliff R said:
"There was a thread on this just a bit ago and you are correct, "IF" you know how to file the rakers its not bad."

It's good for two or three outings followed by sharpening the chain in between, then cutting efficiency starts to deteriorate rapidly, even IF you know how to sharpen a chain and lower rakers, etc. The surface area of the "folded over dorsal fin" rakers doesn't get smaller/narrower in diameter proportionally to the cutting teeth diameter with each sharpening. In other words you will continue to experience diminishing returns, unless you know a way around the basic laws of physics?

I agree that at best those chains are OK, but not on par anyplace with 3/8" full chisel chains that lack any safety features at all.

I don't fully agree that this should be another topic, IF one is evaluating the performance of the 50cc saw in question here that is already outfitted with a tad too much bar for the cc's, AND a chain that is just "OK"......IMHO....Cliff
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Well Cliff, I know you dont like that Vanguard chain but you know what? I dont really like it that much either, but its here and like I said before, all consumer saws come with safety chain and the Vanguard is better then most "safety chain.

I did not intend for this to be a evaluation of performance/cutting speed alone, I would think that is only part of the overall product.

I mean its a $200 saw, how much does one expect for that kinda money?


PLMCRZY said:
So is there any 18" bars that will fit it? I guess I could keep the 3/8s chain on it. Be a lot happier with .325, I'd imagine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Like I said before, Oregon only shows 3/8" in a 20 and 22" K041 mount. So as for a direct fit, then no there is not but the K095 small Husky bars will work fine if you file the adjuster slot up so it will oil through the adjuster hole.

Cliff R said:
"Not to mention some awkward conversations at work. (come to find out not every one is a chainsaw enthusiast)"

I have some friends who own property, chain saw(s), and cut wood on occassion. Most of them are professionals at one career or another, and quite intelligent. IF you ask any of them what size saw they own or just bought, they will IMMEDIATELY answer 20" (or whatever bar length it has). They will seldom know the model number, and it's a rare as a lottery ticket if the know the engine displacement, power ratings, or any other specs about the saw, such as what pitch the chain is and how many drive links it has, etc.

Most AS members will know quite a bit about, if not most of the specifics on their chain saw and other power equipement, sort of like a Muscle Car enthusiast knows the spec's of the engine he just built for his 69 Chevelle......Cliff
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Exactly what we were saying earlier about marketing and the 20" bar. At least as we see it will work with it ok.

nick 55 said:
Mark, did you ever measure the clutch side of the crankshaft so we could try and find a .325 sprocket for it?

Nick
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I did not, I made myself not touch a saw all day so I could get to work on this lathe that needs repaired and put back together.

Honestly though, even though I prefer .325 on my 50cc saws, I really dont think you will see that big improvement with .325 on this saw as it seems to have quite a bit of torque.

I do think that a 16" bar would be a big improvement on it be it .325 or 3/8.

I will try to get that measurement tomorrow as I want to know as well. I forgot to measure it when I had it off the other night. Like I said before, it is a smaller dia crank then the 295 but the outside dia and depth is the same as the 3000 series so that would work it you could come up with the right brg or bushing.
 
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sawinredneck said:
Great review and thread, Mark! Thanks a lot!
I have to say I was damn impressed with that saw in the Oak! I pulled a lot better than I imagined it would! This may very well become my next home owner recommended saw! I used to push the MS180 for that role.
I had a land owner ask me what to buy, 16 acres bunches of brush wood, piss Elms 6" and smaller. He was at a home improvement store and picked up Hitachi as an impulse buy. He hates it already.
This is aimed at the "Tim Allen" market, Joe homeowner has a branch, a tree, needs some firewood, wants to feel manly for the weekend type. This saw will get used twice a year at best, the owner will figure out how much work is really involved and be happy to put his suit back on Monday.
We are WAY over analyzing this saw here, it's not meant for us, it's not even meant for the Consumer Reports crowd, it's for someone on an impulse or needs something right now and the Home improvement store is open and this saw grabbed his eye. He's done no research, doesn't care, but it's got a big bar so it must be the baddest thing in the store!
The fact that it runs as good as it does sure doesn't hurt a damn thing!
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Here is someone that "gets it" :hmm3grin2orange:

Like we said before this saw is not for most of us saw nuts.
 
Modifiedmark said:
Here is someone that "gets it" :hmm3grin2orange:

Like we said before this saw is not for most of us saw nuts.
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Those "cheap" saws got me through a few years before I owned a pro saw. I cut a lot of wood and they held up to it. I still own one that works and another one I sold to a guy for $50 who will use it once a year. They serve a purpose and this was a great thread. I would love to see more of these pop up.
 
I think I'll be putting that 10% coupon to good use this week, I've been looking for a cheap saw to leave in the tractor for occasional use and it sounds like this one fits the bill.
 
jimdad07 said:
Those "cheap" saws got me through a few years before I owned a pro saw. I cut a lot of wood and they held up to it. I still own one that works and another one I sold to a guy for $50 who will use it once a year. They serve a purpose and this was a great thread. I would love to see more of these pop up.
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--I cut from the early 70s to year 2006 with used saws, and the most I paid..disremember now, maybe 25 bucks. Most were 10 or 20 dollars, and I always bought perfectly fine runners.

Then I bought a "new" saw, 200 hundred bucks, the cheapest homerenter saw husky made at the time, still works fine.

Maybe 1/100th of 1% of the guys out there who need to do some sawing actually "need" a high end pro saw or six.

Now there is a niche that isn't on the market yet, and that is high cube but non pro priced saws. 50cc for 200 clams, let's see a 70 to compliment it for 300, NIB, out the door.

That would be *slick*. Brand new two saw practical plan for 500.

Will it happen? Don't know, but glad to see that 50 cc "barrier" finally crossed in the affordable for most guys price range, and glad to see it is Poulan.

And you know their marketing people have to monitor these boards..so...c'mon Poulan, show us what ya got!
 
WoodHeatWarrior said:
Hmm, I'm not going along with this description of Joe Homeowner as some incompetent slouch, buying tools and beating them up and throwing them away or returning them. I know that happens, but I doubt it's the norm. I was trying to describe it earlier but I don't think I did it well. I think it has more to do with the fact that Joe Homeowner isn't a saw enthusiast, and maybe not a great mechanic, but may still try to take good care of his tools.

The picture I was trying to paint was from my own childhood. Dad had 25 acres to take care of, and in the 70's we were heating partially with wood like a lot of folks during the first energy crisis. But the general level of affluence was different (partly people's reluctance to buy things on credit, and partly because a saw like this would have cost relatively more then), and people would not have felt the need to buy pro-grade equipment, let alone be able to afford it. Without the internet they probably would not have known what any of it was. So if we needed something like a chainsaw, he bought ONE saw, from Sears or a local hardware store. It wouldn't have been a pro saw, but something like this would have been perfect. And that was what we had to work with, and it did work. And we tried to take care of it, often with out the knowledge like we have access to here on AS, but they usually lasted a pretty long time - and we didn't run out and get the latest model every time one came out, we used what we had. As I got older I did the maintenance and repair, because I was interested and better at it. But you know, where was a country teenager in the 70's going to find out all the detail stuff we talk about here? So likely it was not maintained or tuned quite right.

Anyway, I know a lot of you guys my age can relate to that time and mindset. Not everyone needs mag cased pro saw. I don't, and if I ever get one it won't be new and will probably need fixing. A saw like this will do most everything I need, even the 24"-32" stuff I have to do now but much more slowly. I'm the target customer for this saw, and other than the weight (not a big deal) it's a step up from my 46cc Poulan 2775, which pulls its 20" bar just fine. Now with Mark's review I'd have no problems buying one. But my existing stuff works well so I won't.
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WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say without hesitation that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority are the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the minority. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.
 
Eccentric said:
WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say without hesitation that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority are the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the minority. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.
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Ahh, maybe it's time period thing too. Things change. You might'a noticed that.
 
I just wanna cut wood when I need to. I don't cut a lot but when I do it's usually from a storm or someone needs a tree down. I ain't no "joe homeowner doofus either" I take of my crap and kno how to properly do so. No matter how it cost it's my money and I wanna get my money's worth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Eccentric said:
WHW I have to disagree with you. You're looking at yourself and your Dad as being the "Joe Homeowner" majority (that saws of this type are marketed towards). After having worked at Sears Service, and observing many other people (including those that I see at wally-world, and those that sell saws on CL), I can say without hesitation that the people in the "Joe Homeowner" majority are the folks you described in the first sentance (that I made 'bold') of your post. You and your Dad, and other folks that appreciate their tools (and try to take care of them) are in the minority. All you have to do is do a google search for "how to use tools for free", "how to get over on Home Depot", or something similar, and you'll see the mindset of the average dolt. Depressing, but true IME. People like you and your Dad are 1 in 100................................................at best.
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I agree Aaron. I do occasionally fix OPE for people, and at this point, I almost expect to get a mower that has never had the oil changed and an inch of grass caked underneath. And it doesnt matter if these people have a $600 stihl or $189 poulan, chances are they wont do proper maintenance.
 
Walt41 said:
I think I'll be putting that 10% coupon to good use this week, I've been looking for a cheap saw to leave in the tractor for occasional use and it sounds like this one fits the bill.
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Yeah Walt why not, sounds like a good use for one.

I have to say I went out to pull the clutch and get a measurement for Nick and I decided to try to start it. It did in 2 pulls. One to pop and one more to start.

I have to say this is one you need to follow the instructions for. It has a half choke postition for a reason and that reason is its a cold blooded strato. It will start after the pop with the choke pushed all the way it but wont run long that way. If you push the choke in to the half notch/postion it will start there and you then need to leave it at half choke and fast idle for a few seconds to warm some, then push the choke all the way in, then your good to go.

The crank dia on this is 10mm or .395" Not sure if there is a brg to fit this crank with the 3000 series sprocket or not. I'm not sure that its worth the trouble anyway to be honest.

I also noticed how heavy the clutch cover/chainbrake assy was when I pulled it off so I weighed it. It was almost a pound by itself. Maybe the metal cover wasnt such a good idea afterall. :hmm3grin2orange:

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WoodHeatWarrior said:
Ahh, maybe it's time period thing too. Things change. You might'a noticed that.
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That's it. I worked at Sears Service through most of the '90s. Things (and customer attitudes) were changing then. We had loyal "Sears only" customers like your Dad, who stuck with us because they ALWAYS got a quality product and excelent service. While large, Sears was NOT a box store at that time. While I was there, Sears was in serious financial trouble. They were starting to cut corners. Chinese made tools were starting to find their way into the line. That crap was labled "Sears", and NOT "Craftsman however.

Shortly after that, Sears was bought out by the K-Mart/OSH conglomerate, and things really went to hell. Service centers (including the ones I worked at) were shut down. Sears tried to compete with wally world and the other discount box stores. Cheap merchandise and returns became the norm, rather than quality products and real service. Sad really. Those same loyal customers (who'd been with Sears for generations) were put off (and rightly so). They correctly decided that there wasn't any reason to pay more at Sears...

joe25DA said:
I agree Aaron. I do occasionally fix OPE for people, and at this point, I almost expect to get a mower that has never had the oil changed and an inch of grass caked underneath. And it doesnt matter if these people have a $600 stihl or $189 poulan, chances are they wont do proper maintenance.
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Yep. While we had our share of stupid/thoughtless/deceptive people coming in to Sears, the 'core' customers were still a pleasure to deal with. They made dealing with the scum worthwhile. Nowadays, everybody wants to get stuff at chinese merchandise prices, and has no moral problem with "sticking it to the big guys" by using equipment for one job (or running equipment into the ground) and returning it for a refund. A sign of the times. This newest 50cc Poulan costs less than the equivelant (2500/2700/2900 series IIRC) Poulans that were being sold at Sears back when I worked there. Not talking 'adjusted dollars', but actual cost. Those saws that I saw sold cost over $200 back then, when a car cost half what it does now. Of course, you can look back to the mid '50s, when a McCulloch 35 (or the sand cast Poulans) cost something in the neighborhood of $400 (and a car cost $2000). That'd be a $5,000 saw in today's dollars. That was before the notion of 'consumer' saws however....
 
.3937 is a Husqvarna size crankshaft used on 141 and 142 saws. And Oregon shows a listing for. 325 sprockets for them.

Nick
 
I bought one of the poulan 5020 saws about a month ago. It seems to be made pretty well for an off the shelf saw. I ran a couple of tanks of gas through it and it done ok other than I think I may need to adjust the carb some since it dogs in the cut a little more than I thought was normal. I would be interested in finding an 18inch bar and chain for it. I think that would make a big difference. As far as the vanguard chain, I havent messed with the rakers yet. Need to get a guage for it. I found this link that may be of some help though. http://www.oregoncuttinggear.com/pdfs/ms_manual.pdf
 

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