Bow Saws Worth A Rip?

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Philbert

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Looking for some basic bow saws. The kind we used as Boy Scouts, for camping, etc., for some of our volunteers to use when they can't use a chainsaw for storm clean up work. Saws that look something like this:
Screen shot 2015-09-11 at 11.26.57 AM.png

Used to just be able to pick up decent ones at any hardware store. Now they seem to sold as stage props: they look like 'real' saws, but they barely cut styrofoam. Looked at several home centers and farm stores as well. They all seem to have the same, cheap blades, made to a price point, but not to work.

Anybody have a current brand recommendation that they have experience with?

The saw pictured is just for illustration - I have used other Bacho brand tools in the past, but not their current saws. I am open to any brand if they cut, and hold up to low skilled work for general cutting of branches and limbs for disposal (not for high-end pruning tasks).

Thanks!

Philbert
 
When you find one tell me, lol! Seriously, have you tried the Bahco? I know a few years ago their Laplander folding saw was all the rage in the backpacker/survival world. Made in Finland IIRC. But that may not apply to the bow saw. And there used to be a manufacturer of a take down bow saw that well spoken of. I can't remeber their name though. I have a Corona folding saw from lowe's that I like. It cuts green wood well but be ready for a workout.
 
I forgot to mention that the corona bow saws I have looked at have burned teeth.

If the tips of the teeth are blue, they are probably 'induction hardened' - a method to keep them sharp longer, but makes them impossible to file. Bow saw blades tend to be disposable/replaced, like the blades in utility knives, razors, reciprocating saws, etc. They all could be sharpened, but most are not.

Philbert
 
Oh, sorry. I am old school and when I see blue/discolored steel it means burned. I looked up induction hardening and from what little my mind can grasp, it looks like a cheap mass production technique. Interesting.

Hmm, files aren't that hard compared to modern knife steels though. Whoops I am getting off topic though!
 
l read the first line of the thread and pictured little Philbert in his boy scout uniform with his little boy scout friends all running around with bow bars on chainsaws. l am sure sombody out there makes a good hand bow saw, but as stated good usefull hand tools nowdays are not found at the local hardware store like times past and sometimes require international shipping ect. Silky ect make half decent little fold out hand saws but they are not the same as a two handed bow with a servicable blade. A good one will cut sub 10" stuff fast and efficiently. I know a catalogue you would like Philbert....a forestry tool company in N.Z called 'Timbersaws' or 'Levin', l found these guys when searching for a commercial top quality hand loppers and hand prunning tools. l was going through a $100 fiskars set every few months. You should be able to get the catalogue in pdf like l have....l am sure you will enjoy the read. Expensive yes, but replacing cheap tools that perform poor is expensive too with an added dose of frustration.
 
I looked up induction hardening and from what little my mind can grasp, it looks like a cheap mass production technique.

It is used on cheaper saws, that will never be sharpened by their users.

It is also used to harden the rails of guide bars - lots of people think that they have overheated their bars when the paint wears off and they see the blue edges ('yeah, that bar is trashed. Better let me dispose of that for you . . .').

Philbert
 
I am going to try the Bahco saws. Apparently, they are the successors to the classic Sanvik saws.

They also offer 2 different tooth patterns:
- green wood ( looks like a conventional crosscut saw, with real rakers, and all);
- dry wood or 'peg tooth' (looks more like a carpentry saw).

Read some reviews online about each.

Philbert
 
Man, I'm hearing your frustration Philbert. Seems like everything is crap today, or darn near everything.

I have a bow saw I picked up in '87 when my Wife wanted our first Christmas Tree (what's a newly married Army puke to do?). I think it was a Craftsman from Sears, only because it would have been convenient, heck I can't remember. Still have that saw, only gets used once a year. Plows right through a Christmas Tree like nobody's business, lol

Over the years I've come across a few older wooden-framed turnbuckle-back tensioned bow saws. Never thought much more about them than to use as decoration, but maybe it's time to give them a closer look.

Looking forward to hearing what you think about the Bahco
 
I have used some folding / collapsable saws on canoe trips. The key thing seems to be the current blades.

A basic frame works if it can tension the blades. But the current blades are just junk. They look like they are stamped out of steel strapping used to bundle lumber. And they all seem to be the same. Race to the bottom.

Better blades would probably work, if you can find them, in your current saw frames.

Philbert
 
I don't own a bow saw. But you are right about the blades. It is like people have forgotten what quality hand tools are and how to use them. It has to be powered! Or it can't be used for anything...

Edit: not that I am against powered tools.
 
Got (some of) the blades today and compared them against a few in my 'stash' from garage sales, etc. (not all the same length, so I can't compare them all in the cut).
image.jpg
Bacho, Fiskars, Ace Hardware. Slightly different tooth patterns: I bought the Bacho blades for dry, hard wood - the other two are for green wood. All have induction hardened (non-fileable) teeth.

Subjectively, the ACE steel feels less stiff (made in China). The Fiskars (made in Denmark) appears similar to the Bahco. Surprisingly, the Bahco (a Scandinavian company that bought Sandvik) appears to be owned by a French company and is made in Portugal!?!
image.jpg

I can't keep track!

Philbert
 
I was looking for a bow saw a while back, and picked one up at Menards, I think it was their brand. However, for half the price, I could get one from Harbor Freight, or as most people call it, Harbor Fright. I figured it would be junk, but it was around $5, and came with 2 blades which were nicely heat treated and extremely sharp. Not only that, but it was bigger and better built than a bigger name brand, and was easy to use/change blades and is comfortable. I put some Coban wrap on the top of the bow just for better grip, but it is a solid saw for brush work. I thoroughly enjoy it, and it was very inexpensive. This is a saw that I use on a regular basis and it has still held up nicely.

In terms of sharpening these modern induction heat-treated blades, files will indeed skip off. However, try an 80 grit flap disc on a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder, and you will find they sharpen up nicely. Clamp the blade parallel on a 2-foot long 2-by-6 or whatever it may be, and go to town, doing one side at a time. It won't take more than a quick zip on each tooth to bring it back to new, and is a bit quicker than a file.

Hope this helps, and best of luck.
 
Got (some of) the blades today and compared them against a few in my 'stash' from garage sales, etc. (not all the same length, so I can't compare them all in the cut).
View attachment 451093
Bacho, Fiskars, Ace Hardware. Slightly different tooth patterns: I bought the Bacho blades for dry, hard wood - the other two are for green wood. All have induction hardened (non-fileable) teeth.

Subjectively, the ACE steel feels less stiff (made in China). The Fiskars (made in Denmark) appears similar to the Bahco. Surprisingly, the Bahco (a Scandinavian company that bought Sandvik) appears to be owned by a French company and is made in Portugal!?!
View attachment 451096

I can't keep track!

Philbert

Hi Philbert,

Thanks for providing this information. Are you now able to say which blade is sharper and stays sharp longest? IOW, which blade you now prefer?
 
Speaking of Harbor Freight, what do you think those "diamond" grit files would do for the heat treated blades?

Seems like they would let you keep control of the tooth shape and angles easier than a grinder.
Of course we trade off job speed then.
 
A thread I'm interested in.

I use these type saws when pruning and also have some old larger ones ( 42") that are suitable for logs/cordwood.

I'd like to find the best source of replacement blades? The newer hardened/throw away have their place if they cut O.K. and price is right. Sources? Could you heat these, then sharpen them, re-heat and quench? I'm thinking maybe Swedish vs. Chinese sources here?

How about anyplace that has the stuff that can be sharpened? I guess find tag sale saws and scavenge those, I won't be trashing my old ones anymore.

Also how about the longer blades (42")?

I found this place: http://www.g-mantools.se/en/products/bow-saws/bow-saw-blades
 
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