Carry a spare chain and change it when cutting

[user 122190]

I was out yesterday with a neighbor and dropped a huge white pine across the road. We cut up about 1/2 of it, and only half of that over filled the 5x12 trailer. Lots and lots of big cuts and I learned that sharpening at each tankful only goes so far. After the 2nd sharpening session, I was getting diminishing returns, and popped on a new freshly ground chain, and wow. What a difference!

After a single field chain sharpening I'm now going to change the chain. Good time to let the saw cool a bit, Gatorade break, and everything goes easier afterwards.

 

[hardpan]

I'm not sure I understand. I do not expect or get a lower quality of sharp because I do it on the job. I guess maybe all of my sharpening for almost 40 years have been of the "field" classification and nobody has ever sharpened a chain for me. I bring along an extra chain but only use it if I hit rock, steel, hard dirt, glass, etc. I sharpen free hand, first time and every time after, where ever I happen to be. The same can be done if using one of the many good guides available.

 

[user 122190]

My round file field sharpening skills are still evolving. Good, far from great, and I doubt it will ever be as good as the bench chain grinder. Whatever it takes to have the best possible cutter at work is the goal.

 

[wood4heat]

I'm with Hardpan, I'll cut until I feel like the chain is no longer doing the job efficiently. When I get to that point I touch it up, 4 times out of five that's in the field. The only real exception is if I'm close to filling the trailer. If it's not going to save me any time I'll just finish cutting and sharpen at home.

For me unless I hit a rock 3 to 5 passes with the file on each tooth has me back in prime cutting condition. Maybe yo need a new file?

 

[hardpan]

My round file field sharpening skills are still evolving. Good, far from great, and I doubt it will ever be as good as the bench chain grinder. Whatever it takes to have the best possible cutter at work is the goal.

I have never used a bench grinder but I have heard many complaints about people mis-using them by over grinding and bad settings. I am not for a second trying to preach or down talk your procedures. If a guy wants to buy 6 chains and take them to someone for sharpening, so be it. Not my business.

 

[user 122190]

Grinders have a learning curve. Learn on an old chain. Once you got it, you'll be a convert.

 

[mijdirtyjeep]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I wish you would have posted this last week, LOL

My almost new Stihl chain got a little dull while dropping some trees last weekend. I had 2-choices, hand file or use my buddies Tecomec grinder that was next to the vise I had my saw already clamped in. I decided I would use the Grinder, cause I have never used one before, and it looked cool. I jacked that chain up so bad I had to grab a new one from the truck. I don't think I could have cut butter with it afterwords. When I got home that night, I put it back on the saw to see if I could hand file it back into usable condition. Even with a new file, I could not get the file to bite. It is almost like it is hardened now.

 

[user 122190]

The grinders are a powerful tool. Over shoot and it's bye bye chain. I usually pass my chains cutters thru twice. Once to get the cutting edge clean, and if a good hard look/inspection shows that the cutting tip is not scalpel surgery sharp I'll do another pass over all the cutters. Bottom line, less is more, and once you have the how-to learned, doing all the cutters is very fast.

Another thing, is soak the chains in solvent first and let dry. Your grinder wheel should last a long long time.

 

[jrider]

One tank full of gas on a white pine? Hell, that chain should be like brand new still.

 

[user 122190]

This chain hasn't been new for over a year.

 

[turnkey4099]

One tank full of gas on a white pine? Hell, that chain should be like brand new still.

Yep. Even on Black locust I expect, and get, a full session out of a fresh chain (I hand sharpen). Only if I hit a rock or something is there a problem. Then I grap a fresh chain out of the tool box (carry almost a dozen of assorted sizes), 14, 20, 25, 28, 32".

Harry K

 

[cantoo]

I usually cut using 2 saws so neither one gets real dull and if I have dirty work to do I do it at the end of the day. I only sharpen on the bench and hand file, used to be a grinder guy but never again. I was keen at first and thought it was working super until I had to handfile a chain and bang it was like cutting with a lazer. Grinder is still sitting on it's pedestal in the corner. I use a 440 to cut and buck logs and a 260 for cutting smaller stuff (up to 16") and limbing. I keep spare chains but very seldom change them in the bush, I just switch saws if I hit something.

 

[Toxic2]

I can usually( and Have) cut up to 4+ cords without sharpening..just keep your chain out the the ground and try to stay clear of the dirt that collects in the branch croches..I usually only file my chian when i feel the need to flip the bar or if i am cutting cedar i will sharpen more..I use to use a grinder but it takes too much material off for my likeing each session

 

[user 122190]

The problem with hand filing, even when I get it right, is the unevenness of the metal removal. I set my grinder to a certain depth(?) and the cutters are all guaranteed to be uniform. Last year when I was working with a brand new chain, I had no problem cutting for hour and hours, and keeping the chain sharp with a file. This used chain that came with the new2me used Husky 460, has lost it's temper and now dulls fast, at least that is my current theory.

 

[unclemoustache]

Didn't know you had white pines up there. But I agree that unless you're hitting something, the chain should be just fine after cutting such soft wood. Still, it's always a good idea to bring an extra chain. Even better to bring a couple extra saws!

 

[Raganr]

I can barely sharpen in a controlled atmosphere so I swap chains in the field. I try to keep a handful of sharp loops on hand and a few extra saws.

 

[Oldman47]

The problem with hand filing, even when I get it right, is the unevenness of the metal removal. I set my grinder to a certain depth(?) and the cutters are all guaranteed to be uniform. Last year when I was working with a brand new chain, I had no problem cutting for hour and hours, and keeping the chain sharp with a file. This used chain that came with the new2me used Husky 460, has lost it's temper and now dulls fast, at least that is my current theory.

Try hand filing using a Granberg File N Joint. You get consistent depth at 20 to 25% of the file exposed above the tooth, both angles and depth of cut (how much you take from each tooth) and get consistent results without the hazard of overheating that can be a problem with a power cutting/grinding tool. Mine fits right in the bucket of tools I carry along with my stump vice, a handful of new files and of course a spare chain. In bright sunlight I think I can see the edge I am getting better than I could in any shop.

 

[user 122190]

The white pines are heavily infested with bark beetles. Its bad. Some monster size ones fell a few winters ago. I'm hot after the still standing dead ones. They split easy and burn clean. Plenty of heat for my needs.

 

[TreeTangler]

I usually cut using 2 saws so neither one gets real dull and if I have dirty work to do I do it at the end of the day. I only sharpen on the bench and hand file, used to be a grinder guy but never again. I was keen at first and thought it was working super until I had to handfile a chain and bang it was like cutting with a lazer. Grinder is still sitting on it's pedestal in the corner. I use a 440 to cut and buck logs and a 260 for cutting smaller stuff (up to 16") and limbing. I keep spare chains but very seldom change them in the bush, I just switch saws if I hit something.

Wow! What are you cutting that you can get 4 cords on a chain. Even when starting with a a newly sharpened chain, it is night and day for me after passing a file through a chain after a cord.

 

[sawjunky23]

I carry spare chains when cutting, but I don't use them much only if I hit dirt or a old syrup tap or something. I monitor my chips and when they start to get small, I file the chain. I think that sharpening every tank of fuel seems a little excessive. I don't own a grinder, I used to take them to a saw shop in town but I would ony get about 4 or 5 sharpenings to a chain and then they were toast. As others have mentioned, they would discolor and you could see they had gotten way hot during the grinding and they seemed to need constant touch up to stay sharp. I have had way better luck hand filing. I just amke sure to keep lots of files on hand and toss them when they become questionable.