I had the same problem you have with the Oregon unit.Thought it was me! I'm using the Granburg unit now and all is good.
Carry a spare chain and change it when cutting
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I've been here since 1976 and don't recall ever seeing old equipment in their lot. If there is it is well hidden in the back.
Harry K
Ambull01
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I heard someone mention flipping the saw upside down. I tried it a few months ago but didn't see a huge improvement. I'll try it again in a few days. If it doesn't work I may just go back to a file and regular guide.
Okay so perhaps that's it. Blame it on the equipment lol. Do you still have th Oregon unit? If so, can you see where they differ?
There have been many versions of the Granberg and Oregon units, along with many private labeled versions. Some of these are pictured in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Might be specific to the issue GVS notes.
Philbert
When I used the Oregon unit, on a log of more than about 14" in diameter ,the saw would always wander off to the right.A realPIA! If the log was 2' in diameter,more or less,it was one tough job.The Granberg unit eliminated that problem.It's stiffer,more rigid in any angle setting ,while both units share the same basic design.(My Oregon is Italian made.I still have it just in case.)
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have the POS big box store version. The proper angle is severely restricted when I try to file the other side of the chain. Either that or I'm a total dumbass.
Not sure what issue GVS noted.
I noticed the same thing when I buck logs. At first I too attributed it to faulty sharpening practices until I noticed my left arm pushing down too hard. I did a little experiment (probably a dangerous practice) and switched hands. Lefty on the trigger and right on holding the saw up. Nice straight cuts was the outcome. Total operator error.
I use only very light downward pressure when sawing.I never "stand" on the saw. As you probably know,if you have to push down on the saw, the chain is dull or the depth gauges(rakers) need work. As stated in a previous post,the difference in the sharpness between the L/side teeth and the R/side teeth cause the chain to cut to one side or the other.In my case the Oregon unit apparently sharpened the R/side a little more aggressively than the left.
I'd avoid using your left hand on the trigger if at all possible.
hardpan
Addicted to ArboristSite
The curved cuts can be caused by the length of the cutter. If the right or left side cutters are generally longer than the other side a curve is likely and most easily seen in a long cut/bigger wood. I have to watch that myself. I sharpen free hand, one side with my left hand and the other with my right hand. I am right hand dominant so I tend to overdo that side, extra strokes are needed with my left hand. The Granberg is a logical choice to be consistent. I own one but have never used it, bought it "like new" off ebay for about half price. Someday.
If you get used to using it, you will probably never free hand again except out in the field. You don't even have to look at what you are doing.
Harry K
For sure. But it isn't something to obsess about, eyeball 'same length' is good enough. I will sometimes use my slide micrometer when I first mount the saw for filing and, if needed, add a stroke or two to the longer side. Now for competition the calipers probably should come out.
Harry K
Tree Feller
J &J Tree Service
I take extra chains with me but only use them if i hit something hard. I find most people have a hard time hand filing because they wait until the chain is very dull. If you touch it up more frequently it seems to be easier. I also have a sharpener
but I find you will go through chains more often due to excessive removal of material from the teeth. Then again that may just be the way i use it??
but I find you will go through chains more often due to excessive removal of material from the teeth. Then again that may just be the way i use it??
Hold the right and left cutters side-by-side to compare length on an un-mounted chain.
Philbert
I would expect to cut white pine for about a week on one chain. Wonder if it is a resin/pitch problem rather than dullness?
I have a simple rule of thumb: Two chains per saw and two saws per cutting occasion. If one saw gives up, I pull out the second one, and if a chain gives up I install the backup. This works very well because I still have a knack of occasionally flooding a saw engine and embedded nails and the ground always seem to find my chain. I must confess that both events tend to produce some foul language from the saw operator.
I try for alt least 3 chains per saw, especially for storm/dirty work. Sometimes I bring files, but prefer to sharpen back at home.
Whatever works for folks.
Philbert
Whatever works for folks.
Philbert
Pssttt, Philbert, I usually carry three or more, but two of them are in better shape than the old and stretched stragglers. I've also been known to lose track of which ones are sharp. So, I attach a small length of masking tape to the dull, rejected chains and remove it after sharpening. Once in awhile, the chain stays clean even after being used.
That goes back to the 'How do you store your chains' threads! My sharpened chains are usually neatly packed (depending on the saw) in a holder, zip-lock bag, etc. Used chains are loose in the saw case.
Philbert
