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Help me decide


  • Total voters
    74
They actually look pretty good. I have no way to measure the combustion chamber volume, but they finish on the cylinder is nice and uniform with a cross hatch pattern and the coating looks consistent around the ports. The combustion chamber appears to be pretty consistent and looks ok. I have assembled with out rings to check the squish and it measured .020 without a base gasket, so that should give pretty good compression.
 
I have assembled with out rings to check the squish and it measured .020 without a base gasket.

No wonder people complain about the compression. Put a base gasket in there and you'd have what, a .035" squish. That's pretty cool though that you can just eleminate the base gasket and be at the magical .020" squish. Works for me.
 
But if the chamber is still big then the .02 squish is not going to do much. But it would allow cutting the base and the piston crown to try and get the right CR number. After that put the ports back where you need them.
 
But if the chamber is still big then the .02 squish is not going to do much. But it would allow cutting the base and the piston crown to try and get the right CR number. After that put the ports back where you need them.

I'm with you. I went ahead and cast my vote for the BB kit. It sounds like the quality issues have been addressed. I really like that the lining is now NiSi rather than chrome and the piston skirts are wider than factory. I don't care about irregularities in the ports since it'll be getting ported anyway.

My plan is as follows:
  1. Install P&C withough rings or base gasket
  2. Measure squish
  3. Mark piston skirt on exhaust side at TDC to make sure I don't free-port the exhaust
  4. Disassemble and see how much skirt length and width I have to work with
  5. Make a popup piston limited by skirt length and distance above top ring groove.
  6. Mill base of jug to set squish
  7. Reassemble and degree the ports
  8. Widen intake and exhaust ports as limited by skirt width
  9. Blend transfers to the base of the jug
  10. Possibly angle transfers towards intake side
  11. Adjust port timing as needed for max torque and approximately 15K RPMs if possible. I will not sacrifice torque for RPMs though.
  12. Polish the exhaust port
  13. Gut the muffler body
  14. Port match muffler to the cylinder
  15. Weld pipes onto the muffler body per the Walkerized style
  16. Remove restrictions in the air filter cover
 
I agree. The only question is if the factory exhaust is too high to begin with. Combustion chamber size is more important to me. That's harder to change.

What is too high? And, what does it matter if you are going to drop the jug - you did say you were sending it out for work and a pop-up.

Why not just try it...or call Bailey's and get your answer right from the source?
 
What is too high? And, what does it matter if you are going to drop the jug - you did say you were sending it out for work and a pop-up.

Why not just try it...or call Bailey's and get your answer right from the source?

Shouldn't be a problem at all.

The only part I'm farming out is having the top of the piston cut and the jug decked.
 
Howdy,
Sounds like you've made your decision. I think you'll be pleased with our product. I've always been very reserved on giving any opinions of the products we sell. First off, whether it's biased, or not, it would have to appear that way since it's our product. The biggest reason not to do this is that the opinions expressed by our customers are unsolicited, and we think for the most part, unbiased.

I think a thread like this is a perfect example of what I'm talking about. It would be real easy to talk our product up, and put down the competition. That's just not the way we want to roll. Once you get a product on the market, if it's a doer, the product will help sell itself with the customer satisfaction it developes on it's own merits. Now if someone wants to slam us, or our product, and I feel it's unwarranted, I'll be on it. By all means, constuctive criticism is always welcomed, and is a positive contribution in the evolution of a product.

All of that being said, we wanted to create a top end that is a viable alternative to the OEM product. Price, and quality are a balancing act that is tough. Price is to high, quality doesn't matter. Quality to low, and price doesn't matter. Our aim was to provide a product that bolts up without issue, has good quality, provides a wider torque band, and to keep the price to where it's a viable if not preferable to OEM. Since you've taken the time to read all of my prequalifiers. My honest opinion is, that for the amount money you shell out, and the quality of the product you're receiving, you're getting a good bang for your buck.
 
Shouldn't be a problem at all.

The only part I'm farming out is having the top of the piston cut and the jug decked.

You have been into a few saws now so I am sure you are getting to know where the guard rails are; I am sure you will be measuring things up before you decide how much to machine to get the compression and squish you are after but I thought it a good place to point out the danger of opening the exhaust port to the base or other things that can go wrong. I have not had my hands on the recent production run of cylinders but you do have to assume that they might take a bit different approach than the OEM cylinders as they could have different dimensional limitations than factory if you start to make major modifications.
 
Don't forget to take case volume into account when putting a bigger jug on.:popcorn:
 
Not For The Faint Of Heart!!!!!!!!!!

The diagnosis is not good. This thing is trashed. That's the gamble you take on eBay. I'm going to contact the seller and see how he wants to handle this. I'm either going to request a refund or I might be willing to accept a partial refund. It would have to be a big one though.

Here are a couple quotes from his response to messages sent through eBay. They are stored in "My Messages".
"the only plastic broke is the recoil cover and it is minor"
"no there should not be any other broken parts just those 2 places, I never never even noticed the engine shroud broke, let me Know if you see anything else"


Here's the minorly broken recoil.
265755502_mPppw-M.jpg


265755607_9vVBz-M.jpg


Nice little surprise under the slightly damaged recoil.
265755449_cjUqL-M.jpg


265755437_5jkh2-M.jpg


One of the front AV mounts is nearly broken off.
265755713_nJZUC-M.jpg


More damage to the tank.
265755790_Cx84b-M.jpg


The filter base is broken on both sides.
265755601_3s6PN-M.jpg


265755611_6psjJ-M.jpg
 
I saved his replies in my eBay messages. I also paid with a CC through PP. I'm going to contact him and see what he says.

If you were willing to fix this thing, how much would you demand in a refund? The biggest concern is the crack in the case, but it's not in a critically stressed area and could be easily fixed. Everything else is a bolt on.
 
That's an ugly project. If it were one or two things, I'd say suck it up with a partial refund and go for it. But what you got there is junk. I'd take the loss on the shipping and get all the $$ back.
 
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