Chain problem

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Shaft

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Hey fellas new to forum so far has been a great read. I'm an Aussie been in forestry since they let me outta school. Just recently have run into a problem with how my chains are cuttin. On 2 different saws same problem. Ones a 372xp runnin 22in bar and full comp chain seconds 066 magnum runnin 28in bar with full comp chain. When cuttin as soon as the whole bar is in the log the chain seems to feel like it's running of the rails or something along those lines and I have to actually give the saw a jolt or pull out a bit then go back in for it to grab and continue cutting. Because its both saws I know it's something I'm doin wrong but between me and couple fellas from work we can't nut it out. One saws got a brand new bar both chain only 1/3 warn and rakers are fine. Anyone ever experienced this or have any ideas be much appreciated. About to buy a batch of chain but don't wanna risk ruining chain till I work it out cheers fellas

Ps they are cuttin jarrah hardwood
 
Raker depths? after about a 3rd its definitely time to dress em a bit. when they get a little tall the chain don't like to cut unless yer leanin on it pretty hard

could also be something to do with grind/file angles, yer aussie woods seem to be pretty hard...
 
Why not put different chains on and see what they cut like. If you only have two chains then buy a roll and see what they cut like. The angles and the raker depth is very important. If you are cutting very hard wood then your set up needs to be spot on. If your raker depth is too shallow then your cutters will dull fast or if your rakers are too deep your saw will shake and bog down. So try a new chain and then compare. My used chain cut very close to new in compared to the way they cut when they are down to 25%. Thanks
 
I know what your talking about.
You have to manipulate it to get it to grab again and its an on going battle.

That can often be a mismatched bar and chain gauge. If you have a 1.3 mm driver then thats what it will do in a 1.5 bar grove..

The type of saw, length of bar as well the cutter intervals are not important.

The chain gauge
The bar gauge.
The age of the bars.
use of raker gauges.
Are they chains you haven't lowered the rakers on yet?

If its not mismatched then its got to much slop do to wear. They will work for a while but the chain will wear quick. That chain should stand in the grove will no side rock hardly
You should flip your bars daily and use a rail puller
 
Westboastfaller that exactly what happening. Thanks for the feedback fellas. So bit more info. Bar on the 372 is brand new still on its first chain marked 3/8 and driver .058 shop did me the deal with chain included took it back for them to check they didn't accidentally give me .050 or something else but the chain is right. So that's got me bit buggered. Gonna try new chain as soon is it gets here. Now with the 066 3/8 and . 063 which is all I've ever used. So for an experiment I swapped chain with fella at work both runnin same bar and chain. His chain was at least half worn and on my saw cut just like they ment too. Now puttin my chain on his saw and strait up his cutting like ****. So it's definitely the chain not the bar. I've checked rackers on both saws multiple times and even got me mate to check with his gauge and all good. Took another touch off the 372 to see if made any difference and nothing changed. To me it's something I've started to wrong when sharpening but we can't work it out will take piks tonight and give yas a look cheers
 
Westboastfaller that exactly what happening. Thanks for the feedback fellas. So bit more info. Bar on the 372 is brand new still on its first chain marked 3/8 and driver .058 shop did me the deal with chain included took it back for them to check they didn't accidentally give me .050 or something else but the chain is right. So that's got me bit buggered. Gonna try new chain as soon is it gets here. Now with the 066 3/8 and . 063 which is all I've ever used. So for an experiment I swapped chain with fella at work both runnin same bar and chain. His chain was at least half worn and on my saw cut just like they ment too. Now puttin my chain on his saw and strait up his cutting like ****. So it's definitely the chain not the bar. I've checked rackers on both saws multiple times and even got me mate to check with his gauge and all good. Took another touch off the 372 to see if made any difference and nothing changed. To me it's something I've started to wrong when sharpening but we can't work it out will take piks tonight and give yas a look cheers
With our timber it's hard on bar rails & especially compounded with thick fibrous bark, sometimes if you let it get out of hand you can wear one rail thinner on one side than the other, enough to be able to pick it with the eye, if you're a full time cutter you need a bar rail closer roller & a disc sander to dress the bars & get them back to a tight bar rail clearance, sometimes the chain can be worn on one side of the tang or straps & no amount of bar dressing or rail closing will fix the problem.
If a bar starts cutting off to one side you have to stop before it shags both the bar & the chain. You just have to flip the bar to the better side or carry a spare dressed & tight bar to see the day out.

Thanski
 
Have you sharpened your chain/s if yes are you using the correct file size? what top plate angle are you filing too? are you filing horizontal or 10 degree angle ? Do you have a saw shop/dealer near with a grinder? if again yes get them to sharpen your chain on a grinder if you can get that done try it then & see, if no sharpening source buy a new chain loop & compare it to your problem chain. I would guess it's the cutters that are more likely to be a problem than the rakers, unless they are way out & you say they check out OK 25thou below the cutters ? Are there default filing angle lines scribed on the cutter tops ?Are you sharpening Freehand or filing guide ? If you are freehanding a husky roller filing guide of the correct size will help to get heights & angles correct.
 
So for an experiment I swapped chain with fella at work both runnin same bar and chain. His chain was at least half worn and on my saw cut just like they ment too. Now puttin my chain on his saw and strait up his cutting like ****. So it's definitely the chain not the bar. I've checked rakers on both saws multiple times.
Its just not that simple.
What's not to say his chain on your bar wouldn't start to wear funny in a few days and adapt the same problems?. One thing I've learnt is not to count anything out and think it "can't be". After 29 yrs I can't pinpoint every problem down to exactly one cause. Mostly its a combination. Example: I don't use a square grinder but hand file round chisel. All my angles,depths and cutting edges are equal. I don't run my chains much over half with Oregon chain. Usually the indicator is a significant difference in chain thows. It could be fine one day and the next morning with in a few hours I realize its time to pull it.
The other reason that happens around the same estimated time is it starts to hardly grab a section of cutters on one side. Like a slight surge & miss. Its notiable to me but it is still cutting fairly fast and straight. It will progressively get worse to the point its not running straight and it binds using the dogs.
Sometimes its a dusting on one side. Sometimes I stop and tighten up the chain and put my best work into it, the rakers, cutting edges and gullets and its way worse and I have to change out the chain.
To clarify: I'm not saying I diligently flip my bar every morning and my gullets don't get out from time to time. That would be BS. I'm saying for best result's, flip your bar everyday. I work in a lot of rain so sometimes I'm not doing gullet work every time. The rain is the main reason I have used mainly Oregon chain & aggressive files. Most all the other advantages goes to Stihl chain.
Everyone is all about the harder plating. Harder filing is a disadvantage for me. Harder stihl chassis and drivers is a plus plus.
Its my belief through my expirence that a raker gauge is excellent when the cutters are even or close to even for the chain to cut properly but its effectivness is lost when shorter cutters follow longer cutters. (I would welcome someone to test that). I can however run a stihl chain down. Besides what was just mentioned,I believe its because the chassis doesn't wear on an angle at the rate the Oregon chain will as well the Stihl is of a lower profile which would also decrease the distance the leading edge can lean out. I'm not sure if the lower profile cutters gives the stihl tooth less gradual slope but if it is less then the chain would be less again affected by shorter and longer gauged teeth (teetor totter effect)
When I said I would try to fix a Oregon chain by setting the raker on uneven teeth and I would lower my high gullets (more hook to match the others) and sharpen and I said it is often worse? Stands to reason that the chain that just had the rakers set then it should be better? In some cases it may improve but once trouble starts the least forgiving thing to do is file a hook in it. Minimize chain hook too low if a rakers = less disturbance = less wear= less trouble.

This post is little to do with how to file your chain but about even wear.

One thing I have never tried because its not 'worth my time' and that's filing the long cutters even with the short ones on a chain I pulled off. I believe the damage is on one side of the chassis and is beyond return? Perhaps its the myth if the raker gauge and It can be fix?
Guys that run a smother square chain & flip their bars once a day, grind the teeth down evenly and use a good raker gauge, never have a problem as long as the chain is sharp. They can run Oregan chain right down to the rivet. Its defiantly achievable by found file but you have to duplicate the same mentally. This means just because its cutting straight doesn't mean you are not contributing to damage on one side that you will pay for around the corner. I know I'm guilty of that.
There is some myth busters you can test and you will positively know more than me...er..um.....that's, if you can sharpen a chain..haha.
 
I don't speak canadian Jamie.and what are the uneven cutters you speak of ?
hey Brian.
I'm sorry...I'll talk Warshintonion.
" I went to the saw shop 'n' got me a half roll of half full skip. I was about to hop in my ride when this fine young thing comes by. She was giving me her didgets but my ink pen wouldn't work so I wrote them I'm the fresh C-ment and then gave her a soda pop. I was just talking **** and says straight up!.."I'm looking for a little wife...you wouldn't happen to ring chickens necks and warsh clothes would you? She says back "Darlin' I'd kick you right straight to the curb! I'm thinkin' they sure don't make 'um like they used to anymore. Anyways my half roll of full chisel half full skip is pimp.
I'm just ****ing off
 
Only read the opening post but curious if you are hand filing or running ground chain

Hardwoods are generally less forgiving to inconsistencies in terms of filing mistakes or mis-matched angles and raker heights on hand filed chains.
 
Yeh hand filling mate ended up giving up with them and gettin some new loops haven't had the problem again yet.
 

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