chain sharpening

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Skywalker

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what do people use to sharpen chains

is there an industrial electric sharpener

the old vise and file is not working for us

cant get chains to cut right
 
what do people use to sharpen chains

is there an industrial electric sharpener

the old vise and file is not working for us

cant get chains to cut right

If you can't get it right with a file,,,, your really going to go through chains with an electric grinder IMO.

It's not that hard to get chains to cut. First off, just try to match the factory grind bringing the newly file track all the way into the wore/dull area.

Some find round-chain (non-chisel) to file easer, it dose cut longer between sharpenings.
 
I accualy find it easier to just use a file, nothing else. Oregon has a plate that you can clip on to your file wich has all the angles on it and you don't have to worry about depth either. I know Oregon and Stihl chain have a "witness mark" on them so it's pretty easy to get the right anlge on them. I agree with Shoerfast about the electric grinder.
 
if you are doing several chains i'd suggest a grinder and practice.

it's not hard once you get the hang of it.i'd recommend the MAXX grinder.i think a few guys here sell them.

files are fine for touch up and a couple of chains.when you have a lot of chains and/or long chains,it's time to move on up. chains should be ground anyway after a few filings to get the teeth back to the same length.
 
sorry to sabotage the thread but...

Any Canadians bought used bucket trucks in U.S?

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I am thinking about getting a used bucket truck and right now with the lower U.S dollar it seems like a good time. I am wondering how the process of bringing it back to Canada works, where to find a good truck, as well as any advice or warnings. Thanks so much
 
I don't do it in the vice, I sharpen the chain while it's on the saw. Haven't had a problem doing that, and the chain that came on my Craftsman was REALLY messed up when I got it, cuts perfect now. Practice makes perfect, but if you really want to spend the money, I've heard electric sharpeners are easier to use.
 
sorry to sabotage the thread but...

Any Canadians bought used bucket trucks in U.S?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am thinking about getting a used bucket truck and right now with the lower U.S dollar it seems like a good time. I am wondering how the process of bringing it back to Canada works, where to find a good truck, as well as any advice or warnings. Thanks so much


Do a search or start a new thread asking it, or both.
 
what do people use to sharpen chains

is there an industrial electric sharpener

the old vise and file is not working for us

cant get chains to cut right

If you do a search there are many other threads that will cover this.

Sharpening chains by hand is a great way to do it...if you dont have a ton of chains.

In talking with people the Oregon 501A is the nicest..but i think its like $ 300 plus bucks.

There is a knock off..(which i have) that is sold at Northertool.com (i got mine shipped to Nor. Cal for under a $ 100).

There is also a knock off of the Oregon sold through Baileys, which is a sponser on this sight.

To be honest even though i bought the electric grinder...i have still not fully figured out oh to use it...when i say use it...i mean get it to sharpen correctly...angle and depth.

Good luck, i would still do a search, hope this helps

Canyon
 
buy a good one.don't skimp.

you ain't gonna get much for 85.00 and you'll be supporting the commies.

my partner bought one and he got what he paid for.power switch went right after he pulled it out of the box.they sent him a new switch but too much BS for me.there is a topic here about having to do something with a washer as well.i want it to work right out of the box. i bought the stihl grinder for $500 and i love it.a little pricey but it has never hiccuped,it's easy to use and it's saved me a lot of time,money ,and chains.i can file fine but it gets old.i'd rather be cutting than filing.
 
electric ?

Yes read the threads, epecily the long ones. I can finaly file prety good nowafter 20+ years but last yaer after getting into milling ibought the red nock off not the real cheap one, about a hundred bucks. You cant keep the angles rite through the whole chain, when it gets rocked or hit meatal. but read the threads first.
 
Yes read the threads, epecily the long ones. I can finaly file prety good nowafter 20+ years but last yaer after getting into milling ibought the red nock off not the real cheap one, about a hundred bucks. You cant keep the angles rite through the whole chain, when it gets rocked or hit meatal. but read the threads first.

Ya i am finding that to be my problem with it.

What or do you use a grinder now?
 
Check the gap on you bar!!!
I had a heck of a time getting mine sharp one day, took it to the shop (went for a bunch of stuff) and the guy asked "how does she cut, in circles?"

He sold me a new bar and it cuts perfect now! He said the bar was worn out and comparing the new and old ones, my old one had almost twice the gap!
 
Check the gap on you bar!!!
I had a heck of a time getting mine sharp one day, took it to the shop (went for a bunch of stuff) and the guy asked "how does she cut, in circles?"

He sold me a new bar and it cuts perfect now! He said the bar was worn out and comparing the new and old ones, my old one had almost twice the gap!

Who are you reffering too??? The bar on the saw or the bar on the grinder???
 
I touch mine up with a file but when they hit objects or after I've used a file for some time I'll use a bench mounted saw chain grinder (I own a Techomec - similar to the Oregon 501A). Yes they are around $300. There are many posts on this subject already. Try a search on bench grinders or chain grinders.
 
re. gap on bar

I'd assume the gap on the bar of the chainsaw to be the one Jack D was talking about. You can put a new chain on a worn out bar and still have a heck of a time getting a straight cut in the wood (certain wood more than other wood)

Hmmmmm....Wonder if you could just go .063 chain on a worn out .050 bar?
 
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I'd assume the gap on the bar of the chainsaw to be the one Jack D was talking about. You can put a new chain on a worn out bar and still have a heck of a time getting a straight cut in the wood (certain wood more than other wood)

Hmmmmm....Wonder if you could just go .063 chain on a worn out .050 bar?

Its best to get a rail closer, I think the .063 will still be to tight even for the worst worn bar.

Where are you from BTW??
 
New vs hand filed

Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain..... Often times I wonder though, if after I hand file/knock down the rakers a tad if my saw is cutting better then w/the chain when it was new. I like hand sharpening (in the vice) and afterwards it looks as if you have opened up the tooth somewhat to a more aggressive bite. What do you guys think?
 
Don't get me wrong....a new chain is always so nice and I would never mess with a new chain..... Often times I wonder though, if after I hand file/knock down the rakers a tad if my saw is cutting better then w/the chain when it was new. I like hand sharpening (in the vice) and afterwards it looks as if you have opened up the tooth somewhat to a more aggressive bite. What do you guys think?

Romeo......What is your view on what I said? I thought you would bite but I have to ask...:)
 

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