Chainsaw milling questions

[Boomer 87]

Hey all, I'm wanting to get into milling. I was thinking about a 36"mill would suffice for the wood in my area. Money is an issue I'm wanting to use a homelite super xl 923 to power it as I already have that saw. Would it have enough oats to run it decently? I can't afford a high dollar saw.

 

[BobL]

36" mill means a max of about a 30" wide cut
A homelite super xl 923 is an 82cc saw with 7500 rpm @ WOT - I'd say that's light on for 30" milling.
It would be OK for cuts up to about 24" with the odd cut above that

 

[IyaMan]

That'd be a big cut for 82cc, especially if hardwood. What's the HP on that? I imagine its less than 6hp, and as that's an older saw, it may be more close to 5hp. As BobL mentioned, more than 24" would be probably pushing it with milling rip cuts (which would be a 28-30" bar/mill), or at least, it'd be really slow..

 

[Quietfly]

Bobl is like a milling legend, I'd take anything he says to heart, Maybe twice....

 

[Boomer 87]

Ok thanks for the responses, I only have one other saw may be capable. A poulan 655 boost port,problem being that saw is my baby and I see how hard milling is on a saw if I ever burned it up I'd be sick..so maybe I should save up for a ms660 or 395xp or equivalent of those. Something parts are readily availible for

 

[Boomer 87]

Also, with a 36" mill, would It be wise to get the extra oiler kit for the bar? Do I need a double ended bar that takes the handle or can I get by with out all of that? Sorry for all the questions I don't know much about it but I want to.

 

[abbott295]

Definitely set up an auxiliary oiler, don't need a handle on the end, read the chaisaw miling 101 stickie at the top. Pictures were lost in a big hacking incident, but still lots of good information there.

 

[IyaMan]

Also, with a 36" mill, would It be wise to get the extra oiler kit for the bar?

Yes, definitely.

Do I need a double ended bar that takes the handle or can I get by with out all of that?

Not necessary for 36", but could help with ease of movement some.

Sorry for all the questions I don't know much about it but I want to.

That's how everyone learns!!

 

[BobL]

One possibility is to by a 36" mill but adjust it to run a smaller bar with the Homey.
Then you can find out if it really is for you.
The smaller the saw the more important it is that you keep the chain share and setup properly.
Read the CSM101 sticky and find out about "progressive raker setting"

 

[Boomer 87]

I may do that, if I can use an existing bar it already has a 36" bar on it. Maybe I can run that and get the right chain type

 

[Boomer 87]

I've been reading the saw milling 101 sticky pretty good info there, I'm thinking more about like you said adjusting my mill down to like milling 24" wide using xl 925 to get my feet wet then later upgrade my equipment to run wider

 

[Boomer 87]

I do have a poulan pro 475 it would have a high rpm range maybe it would do better than the xl 925?

 

[IyaMan]

I've been reading the saw milling 101 sticky pretty good info there, I'm thinking more about like you said adjusting my mill down to like milling 24" wide using xl 925 to get my feet wet then later upgrade my equipment to run wider

Good idea. The nice thing about a 36" mill is that it can always be adjusted down. And 24" is still plenty wide, and a 925 should have some good power in that, especially if softwood. For you first attempts I'd even suggest you stay under 18" or 20". The learning curve will be easier on your body when the log isn't so big to move, or or too wide to easily push the mill through. The cuts go quicker too. And you won't just be getting your feet wet with the width, but you'll get a handle on setting up rails, managing chain, and running a mill saw... all of which are of a different order than bucking and felling. Happy milling!

 

[IyaMan]

I do have a poulan pro 475 it would have a high rpm range maybe it would do better than the xl 925?

Best way to know is trying both in the same log! (though wood type -hard or soft- may give different results)

 

[Boomer 87]

I did some checking. I can get a 36"mill and buy a 9ft section of the guide rails through northern tool and equipment for $435 for both pieces. That seem like a decent price to you guys? $225 for the mill, $210 for the guide system. That's an Alaskan mk 3

 

[rarefish383]

Does it look like this. That's a 923 or 924, I forget which. This one has a 30" bar on it. Does not have near the grunt of the old 1050. I've since bought a new 660. You can keep the longer bar on the saw, just don't max out the width. I never put my 25 inch bar on the mill, the 36" stays on the mill, Joe.

 

[Boomer 87]

I have a example of both you posted. My dad has a good running 1050 super also. What I fear is using the old dogs from our collection is if we burn one or break something major finding parts would be difficult.

 

[rarefish383]

I have two 1050's my Dad bought new back in the 70's. I just sold an NOS piston and cylinder, should have kept them, didn't get much for them. I bought a new Stihl 660 to mill with. It's so much nicer. Easy to start, much less vibration, quieter, uses much less fuel. Use the 1050, just don't lean on it and dog it. If you like milling get a new or used 660 or 880. For that matter, stick with the 923 for a while. I'd go to a 30" bar or at least don't stick it in bigger wood. I thought my 924 actually cut a little faster because the XL's rev a little higher, Joe.