Chainsaw Tuning 101

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1/4 will be fine for a starting point. Note: I have found the 346 to lean out far more than most saws when it's fully warmed up.

Thanks Brad and Adirondack. I thought Adirondack did a nice job showing the differences b/t the limited and unlimited coils, and I like his YouTube page (mweba?). Like Brad's page, too...even helped us fix our fish tank trouble. Go figure.

Seems our 445 leans out quite a bit the more it warms up. Got a tiny tach cuz I wasn't able to hear what I needed, but the videos, and more time in the cut, have me listening and hearing much better now. Most significantly, the transition from cut to release is maybe a note or two difference, rather than half the musical scale where it starts to whine/scream. Now I'm ready to tune every time out, and feel much better breakin in our 365. Also knew tuning was important cuz we're going 40:1 rather than 50:1. Thanks again.
 
I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.

Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.


Demonstrating a MS440 tuned a little too rich, then leaning it out.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/video-how-to-tune-a-chainsaw.113538/

Checking the H tune on a 350, 4-stroking at WOT.


Checking the tune in the wood on the same 350.


Checking the tune in the wood with a 346XP.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/checking-your-tune-in-the-wood.154314/

Awesome video, thanks for posting it up!
 
Excellent vids! Thanks as always. Pretty soon the government will control our saws and they'll all be fuel injected with catylitic converters. No tuning allowed. Does anyone know if the Stihl 076 coils with the red top and no trigger made in Brazil are limited? Thank you.
 
Very clearly & nicely done! Explaining as you were going along will be a great aid for many who are still a little uneasy about the procedure. I really liked the advice to "go slowly" with the adjustments & check each change with your ears & hands.
 
Limited coils. It seems like the safest way to tune would be with a tach and set H a little below the limit level or do we just add the price of an unlimited coil or tach to the new price of a saw that is manufactured with a limited coil? I have a real tuff time hearing the difference between 4-stroking and the limited coil kicking in on some saws.
 
Figured maybe i could ask here, ive been working on rebuilding a fried 261 into a 262xp. Flat top Meteor, muff mod and seems to run just fine with the 261 clutch. Been looking to upgrade to the HD-87 carb eventually when i find one.

Problem i got is i can't make the carb happy no matter how many times i start from scratch. I can tune it to perfect when idling, blipping the throttle, WOT, but in the wood it lasts maybe 2-3 minutes before it starts to seem like its bogging then running out of fuel. As far as i know it could be the original carb (saved it from a guy who was gonna dumpster it after straight gassing it). Prior owner had went ahead with the flat top then his buddy borrowed it and gassed it.

Everything is fine until i hits wood. Am i missing something simple here and start with a carb rebuild or replacement? Everything else is new, fuel lines, fuel and air filters, plug and gap, decomp valve, b&c...

Gotta be the carb messing with me huh.. Never had this problem with any other saw. Always been able to tune em just fine. Id rather just wait till i find an 87 if im gonna be monkeyin with any carb build...
 
Well i'll have to order one up then, Thanks bud! Should i be listening for a hissing or suction sound when i open the fuel tank? I didnt hear one yesterday but i might as well replace anything i can that i don't know the history of.

~Moose
 
When tuning, does the size of wood(load on the saw) have any bearing on the procedure ?
They always told me you have to let it fourstroke when there is no load on the saw, but when you start to saw in the wood it should clean up. Correct me if i'm wrong?

Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
 
Err on the rich side and your saws will live a long time. Err on the lean side and you will be looking for parts suppliers and advice on tearing down your engine, cleaning off aluminum transfer etc. Remember, cold air contains more oxygen and requires more fuel to stay in tune. CCW on the H screw.

A big deal when cutting towards the end of winter. You could start the day crispy cold and as the day warms up lose power while going rich. Tune saw for warm temps, go out the next day when crispy? Always start the day with a tune unless temps are the same; it'll keep your saw happy.
 
I thought I'd try and compile all the threads and vids I've done showing how to tune a chainsaw.

Tuning a 3120 with an adjustable carb.


Demonstrating a MS440 tuned a little too rich, then leaning it out.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/video-how-to-tune-a-chainsaw.113538/

Checking the H tune on a 350, 4-stroking at WOT.


Checking the tune in the wood on the same 350.


Checking the tune in the wood with a 346XP.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/checking-your-tune-in-the-wood.154314/

thanks Randy for the usefull summary
 
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