Yes. The Guardian and The Evening Patriot. This end of the island was The Journal and The Pioneer.
Sucks about the sick kids. Nothing worse
Chainsaw work vise on the cheap
- Thread starter MS260 Fan
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Sucks about the sick kids. Nothing worse
thomas1
sodium pentothal
- Joined
- May 2, 2010
- Messages
- 3,651
- Reaction score
- 1,092
Yesterday I managed to pick up a few more 3/4" nuts. I think I needed 5 more to finish the project. Costs are escalating. I think that tacked on over $1 to the tally.
I had a few minutes to myself to work on it today. Literally 15 minutes...It took less than 10 to cut the center of the rotor out with a low budget angle grinder and cutting disk. A better grinder and it would be closer to 5. There was a ridge inside the rotor to follow with the disk. I was really impressed with how it turned out.
None of the ground surface touch the ball anyway. I was worried about the cut being out of round for nothing. I cleaned up the newly exposed edge with a round file and put everything back together.
There's a fair amount of travel in the center post. Likely enough. I was going to cut out the section in white but decided to try it out first. I still think I'll do it. I'm going to let the PL9000 cure tonight and play with it tomorrow to get a feel for where I can move a saw. I'm a little nervous about the PL. After 3 hours it's still pretty pliable. Worst case I turn a nut on some washers down onto the ball and break it free.
With the setup above I can hand tighten the rear nut and get it to lock down with enough clamp force to keep any pig of a saw from moving. The lower nuts on the front two posts took some tinkering with to get the correct height so that it's free moving when the rear nut is loose.
Next is to get the bar adapter welded. Hopefully next weekend. Busy week ahead.
It's safe to say this is a pretty simple project. Hardest part was making the 3/4" holes. My newly acquired drill press (Craftex / Busy Bee from the late '80's) paid for itself on those. The 3/4 hp motor did it's work. That and an angle grinder, hacksaw and a couple of files did the trick. My vice was nice to have but not necessary.
I had a few minutes to myself to work on it today. Literally 15 minutes...It took less than 10 to cut the center of the rotor out with a low budget angle grinder and cutting disk. A better grinder and it would be closer to 5. There was a ridge inside the rotor to follow with the disk. I was really impressed with how it turned out.
None of the ground surface touch the ball anyway. I was worried about the cut being out of round for nothing. I cleaned up the newly exposed edge with a round file and put everything back together.
There's a fair amount of travel in the center post. Likely enough. I was going to cut out the section in white but decided to try it out first. I still think I'll do it. I'm going to let the PL9000 cure tonight and play with it tomorrow to get a feel for where I can move a saw. I'm a little nervous about the PL. After 3 hours it's still pretty pliable. Worst case I turn a nut on some washers down onto the ball and break it free.
With the setup above I can hand tighten the rear nut and get it to lock down with enough clamp force to keep any pig of a saw from moving. The lower nuts on the front two posts took some tinkering with to get the correct height so that it's free moving when the rear nut is loose.
Next is to get the bar adapter welded. Hopefully next weekend. Busy week ahead.
It's safe to say this is a pretty simple project. Hardest part was making the 3/4" holes. My newly acquired drill press (Craftex / Busy Bee from the late '80's) paid for itself on those. The 3/4 hp motor did it's work. That and an angle grinder, hacksaw and a couple of files did the trick. My vice was nice to have but not necessary.
Oh yeah. I still intend to mount it to the steel base. I want to knock more rust off the rotors and paint them before doing a final assembly.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2012
- Messages
- 2,481
- Reaction score
- 3,399
Cutting that center out of the rotor came out real nice !
I pass a bowling alley every time I come home from work, can you guess whats on my mind ?
I pass a bowling alley every time I come home from work, can you guess whats on my mind ?
I would have been unhappy with it if the center came out poorly. It could have affected the function and look. I thought getting it done on a lathe would be easy so left it to the last. If I were to make another one I'd cut the center first.
You'd be surprised how many people post bowling balls for sale. This one came with a flashy carrying bag for $5. Even has the previous owner's name professionally scribed into it. I expect Bob would be disappointed if he knew the fate of his old ball.
Post pics here if you make one!
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
You'd be surprised how many people post bowling balls for sale. This one came with a flashy carrying bag for $5. Even has the previous owner's name professionally scribed into it. I expect Bob would be disappointed if he knew the fate of his old ball.
Post pics here if you make one!
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2012
- Messages
- 2,481
- Reaction score
- 3,399
Its on my list of things to do, but with a house extension, 4 kids (youngest being 2) and quite a few other things on my "honey do" list, it wont be happening for a few years at best.
Although, if I do happen to come across a bowling ball just laying around my travels, I can easily grab a set of rotors (I replace 2 or 3 every year) for it, and will happily copy your great idea ............. (if you dont mind). Then I will post some pictures here.
Although, if I do happen to come across a bowling ball just laying around my travels, I can easily grab a set of rotors (I replace 2 or 3 every year) for it, and will happily copy your great idea ............. (if you dont mind). Then I will post some pictures here.
Wow. You've got a full plate. My 4 and 2 year old keep me busy enough. Help yourself to my spin on the ideas of others!!
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Not happy that the brand new construction adhesive didn't harden. It took quite a while to clean it off everything. I was able to pull the rod out by hand after 24 hrs... I replaced it with gorilla glue. Not as strong but I like the fact that it expands when hardening.
I drilled a few angled holes within the 3/4" hole in the ball with a 1/8" drill to give the glue something to bite to. Not sure it will have what it takes when the saw is sitting on it's side. I'm definitely going to cut a slot in the top rotor.
I finished the mounting bracket. Double nutting it is pretty solid but a few welds connecting the rod to the nuts and the nuts to the yellow piece will hold it for good. I'll likely add a nut to each side of the coupler when in use.
It looks good connected to my MS660. The same bracket should work for all my Stihls, Dolmar 7900 and Husky 3120
I drilled a few angled holes within the 3/4" hole in the ball with a 1/8" drill to give the glue something to bite to. Not sure it will have what it takes when the saw is sitting on it's side. I'm definitely going to cut a slot in the top rotor.
I finished the mounting bracket. Double nutting it is pretty solid but a few welds connecting the rod to the nuts and the nuts to the yellow piece will hold it for good. I'll likely add a nut to each side of the coupler when in use.
It looks good connected to my MS660. The same bracket should work for all my Stihls, Dolmar 7900 and Husky 3120
I learned my lesson with gorilla glue. I never thought about how it increases in volume. It turns to an air filled foam that has little shear strength. Good for some home projects I suppose but not this one. My 660 made short work of it.
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
sld961
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you tried 2 part epoxy? How much empty space is there?
That'll be next I think. I need to get this foam cleaned up. I want to take a better look at the construction adhesive too. I love that stuff. Maybe I got a bad tube.
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2012
- Messages
- 2,481
- Reaction score
- 3,399
Just go right to JB weld now, mix the whole thing, scrape it into the hole and twist the threaded rod as you jam it down to the bottom. Keep twisting so the threads pull the JB down into the hole, and keep enough mixxed to level the hole and form it - keeping with the bowling ball surface.
You can thank me in 20 years when its still holding perfectly !!
I can't believe I never thought of that! I should have enough..
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
sld961
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe I missed it, but how are you planning on tightening the bolts when you want to move the position? Are you going to use a wrench every time, or use some type of cam lever clamp?
The cam lever clamp may be the key. The rear nut is the only one that I have to tighten. I want to use it a bit before I make up my mind. Still not sure how much tension in the bolt is required.
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk
nywalleye
ArboristSite Member
Very nice project, and good work on minimizing the expenses. Would love to see the finished product.
I used a nut just like you did Darcy, all I did was weld a shaft/lever to one of the flat sides of the nut, it only takes a quarter turn to loosen off enough on a coarse thread like you have to allow the ball to move.
