Close to buying a LumberMate LM29

[dlabrie]

Hi all,

I have been following this site for a few years now and have learned quite a bit. I plan to retire soon and I've been looking for a "hobby / retirement- job". I have 12 acres here in central NH with quite a bit of mature pine and mixed hardwoods. I have a tractor, chain saw, and other tools to harvest the wood. First off, I plan to build a shed for the mill, then use lumber for projects around the homestead as well as sell some on Craig’s list. When I get confident, I might custom cut wood as well.

I have looked at all of the major brands and keep coming back to LumberMate LM29. I am looking at getting the 14hp (429cc) Kohler OHV recoil start gas engine and rail one extension. I would not be trailering it.

I have a couple of questions:

Do you think the Dura-Guide Ceramic Blade Guide Retrofit Kit is worth the $299 price tag?

Is auto lube necessary?

Does anyone know the oil drain plug size on this engine?

I would love to hear any pros, cons and opinions you may have on this mill.

Thanks,

David

 

[hamish]

I have looked at all of the major brands and keep coming back to LumberMate LM29. I am looking at getting the 14hp (429cc) Kohler OHV recoil start gas engine and rail one extension. I would not be trailering it.
I have a couple of questions:
Do you think the Dura-Guide Ceramic Blade Guide Retrofit Kit is worth the $299 price tag?
Is auto lube necessary?
Does anyone know the oil drain plug size on this engine?
I would love to hear any pros, cons and opinions you may have on this mill.

Thanks,

David

David

I have had the previous version the ML26 for over 3 years now.
No sense wasting the money on the ceramic blade guides or the auto lube.
In 3 years time I have no complaints about the mill. By the end of this summer I will have milled 100K BF, on the little mill that could.

Jeremy

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I am looking at getting the 14hp (429cc) Kohler OHV recoil start gas engine and rail one extension.
David

The small Lumbermates I've demoed at shows, turned out nice lumber and worked very well...

BUT, i'd MUCH rather have the 16 hp Vanguard over the Kohler, even if I had to pay more to get the Vanguard! ESPECIALLY if that ohv Kohler is one of the Kohlers that are now made in china...

Vanguard motors are very good motors and quite fuel efficient...

SR

 

[dlabrie]

SR,

The 16hp (479cc) B&S is $1100 more than the 14hp (429cc) Kohler. I agree it is probably the better engine, but for now, I really can’t afford that much more. Also, I don’t know if this makes sense, but I figure I can run the Kohler until it dies and for $1100 replace it with a B&S.

Jeremy,

Thanks for the info on your LM26. What engine do you run on it?

David

 

[hamish]

SR,

The 16hp (479cc) B&S is $1100 more than the 14hp (429cc) Kohler. I agree it is probably the better engine, but for now, I really can’t afford that much more. Also, I don’t know if this makes sense, but I figure I can run the Kohler until it dies and for $1100 replace it with a B&S.

Jeremy,

Thanks for the info on your LM26. What engine do you run on it?

David

13HP Honda.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

13HP Honda.

Agreed, that would be my second choice...

SR

 

[pete_86]

After looking at their site, I want one even more! How do they compare to other brands? I like the 5k price and would probably go with the Honda engine and save the extra money to spend on the accessories like the log positioning rollers and etc. The bigger model at 2k is bit more, but if I recall that comes with ceramic holders and a larger elec start brigs.

I'd still go with the smaller 29 when I buy. For me price of unit is good but the accessories and the trailer package gets expensive. The trailer package is 3k to have the winch and rails and than the trailer. Why so much for a trailer? Anyone use these another way such as offloading it with a tilt deck equipment trailer and using a winch to winch back on? I really like their trailer idea but I'm not sure if I'd trailer it much so the hassle of using a tilt deck wouldn't be too bad. Plus for 3k if I didn't have a tilt deck could put it towards a nice trailer.

Has anyone built their own trailer package?

 

[Dave Boyt]

I run an HD36, but have done demos on the LM29, and was impressed by how smooth it was. Norwood has also brought back the LM26, which is also a good machine. If you will mostly be working logs 20" diameter and under, the smaller engine should be all right. I like the ceramic guides, because they are smooth and easy to adjust. They take up less room than the roller guides, and I can take them off to mill a slightly wider board (very carefully). The top two "options" are a mill shed and a log deck. Start out stationary and think about being portable after you've kicked out some sawdust. Besides the price, I was attracted to the Norwood because it has a good solid feel to it, and it came as a kit so shipping was cheaper, and I didn't pay someone at the factory to build it for me. Very pleased with the machine and the service!

 

[dlabrie]

Thanks, Dave.
Your comments are what I needed to hear. I think the Norwood owners are the best advertisement for the company. I have e-mailed Tom at Norwood about buying a mill, but he is on vacation until the 28th. I'll see what he has to say and hopefully by mid August, I will be making sawdust

 

[hamish]

Thanks, Dave.
Your comments are what I needed to hear. I think the Norwood owners are the best advertisement for the company. I have e-mailed Tom at Norwood about buying a mill, but he is on vacation until the 28th. I'll see what he has to say and hopefully by mid August, I will be making sawdust

The Kohler CH395 (14hp) is a good motor, however it hasn't been out long enough (only about 4 years) to get some real feedback on them. I have a CH270 (7hp) on my wood splitter and another on a pump. Both start on to two pulls year round, but I haven't been able to accumulate a lot of hours on them to be able to determine longevity.

Being made in China has nothing to do with quality, you can get a Briggs and a Honda also made in China. The parent company and there quality expectations/requirements are what dictate the final product, regretfully the consumers want for cheap product has led to many companies/importers to have cheap garbage made to satisfy them.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Which Briggs & Honda models are made in china??

I see china made Honda "clones", but I haven't seen a REAL Honda made in china... I haven't seen a Briggs Vanguard made in china either...

I've seen the clones have carb problems, and also inferior metal in them too... I'd just rather get something of a "known" quality...

SR

 

[rwthom279]

Which Briggs & Honda models are made in china??

I haven't seen a Briggs Vanguard made in china either...

I've seen the clones have carb problems

SR

SR,

All of the new/newer, smaller "one lung" Briggs I have seen are Chinese Honda Clones. Briggs had the placement of the controls, the fuel tank and plastics molded so they look mimic the look of the older model 5hp with the Pulsa-Jet cabs. From a distance of 10ft, they could easily be mistaken for the older good quality ones. Remove the front cover and air filter and it becomes apparent... Its a shame really

I haven't put my hands on a recent Vangaurd to know if they are the V-Twin C-Honda. One can only hope that they haven't made the switch... darn good engines IMO

Even the Hondas are susceptible to the issues related to ethanol in the fuel. Due to the construction of the carb and the inability to clean all the teeny tiny fuel passages, once it's down, chances are, it'll have to be replaced. If a person has access to an ultrasonic cleaner, many times these carbs can be saved.

I have a couple C-Hondas as well, but like Hamish, I haven't put enough hours on any of them to give any kind of legitimate feedback. They start easy and are VERY fuel efficient. All I know is, it takes several oil changes to get all the crap out of the crankcase when you first take 'em outta the box.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I haven't looked at any Briggs singles in a long time, not sure what Briggs has done with them... The Vanguard side shafts I've looked at, look the same as my old 23hp that I KNOW wasn't made in china.

My brother has several H clones, they sure aren't a Honda... Like for instance, the carb flanges break easily... I haven't seen a REAL Honda of any size made in china yet...

I've read numerous times of the china Kohlers starting hard, not running right or not making good power right out of the box, i'll pass on Kohlers these days...

SR

 

[hamish]

I haven't looked at any Briggs singles in a long time, not sure what Briggs has done with them... The Vanguard side shafts I've looked at, look the same as my old 23hp that I KNOW wasn't made in china.

My brother has several H clones, they sure aren't a Honda... Like for instance, the carb flanges break easily... I haven't seen a REAL Honda of any size made in china yet...

I've read numerous times of the china Kohlers starting hard, not running right or not making good power right out of the box, i'll pass on Kohlers these days...

SR

REAL Honda of any size, how about the larger size, aka car. The Honda Fit is made in China. GX Series motors are produced in China. Jailing-Honda-Motors (China) and Thai Honda MFG (Thailand) are the primary makers for the GX series motors.

Right from Briggs and Stratton

quote "
Are Briggs & Stratton engines manufactured in the United States?
Nearly 90% of our engines are manufactured in the U.S.A. from U.S. and global parts. Supporting the power within each of us is our brand promise. It's why over 3,000 people build over 9 million engines in our U.S. factories each year from U.S. and global parts. And it's the reason why consumers look for the Briggs & Stratton brand when they shop for power equipment.
The consumer engines manufactured outside the United States are:

• 700 Series™ DOV®
• 550, 750, 800, 900, 1150, 2100 Series™ Utility
• 800, 900, 1150, 2100 Snow Series™

Commercial grade engines manufactured outside of the United States include:

• Vanguard™ V-Twin Horizontal and Vertical Shaft
• Vanguard™ 3 Cylinder
• Vanguard™ Single Cylinder Horizontal Shaft (except Model 19)

All Vanguard™ engines are engineered in the USA."

And no the Vanguards are made in Japan anymore, I replaced 23hp Vanguard less than a month ago, guess where it was made?

 

[hamish]

And no we aren't talking about "clones".

Off shore B+S engines have much higher quality than the garbage made in the past 20 yrs in the US by B+S.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I was at an ag EXPO today and I looked at several small motors.

The guy there that I talked to, said the small Briggs were assembled here, from parts made in china and other places. The ones he had there did look like many of the china motors I've looked at, although they didn't say china any place on them.

The Vanguards I looked at, didn't look china made at all, but they may have been older models?? The certificate or origin on the last vanguard I bought stated, block from Taiwan, rest Japan. Last Honda 13 I bought was made in Thailand...

One of the best small motors I've bought lately, is a gas powered, fuel injected V twin, made by Kubota. VERY nice motor!

SR

 

[Blackbeered]

Well, dlabrie, what have you decided to do?

I'm at the stage where you were in July. The posts here are convincing me that the LM29 would be a good choice if I wanted to step up from the lowest entry point sawmill I've found and like [the Woodland Mills].

I really have no use for the saw after a few thousand bf and I thought I might not have too much trouble selling it then [and for that purpose I thought of going with the elec start 16HP and trailer options] for 70 cents on the dollar. [I can't find any used sawmills under $10K.]

I was wondering if the sentiment still is "forego the ceramics, auto water lube"; I shied away from the toe boards since I'm thinking "it's only for the first cut anyway" and "I already own bottle jacks". Whatta think?

Thanks.

 

[dlabrie]

Well, dlabrie, what have you decided to do?

I'm at the stage where you were in July. The posts here are convincing me that the LM29 would be a good choice if I wanted to step up from the lowest entry point sawmill I've found and like [the Woodland Mills].

I really have no use for the saw after a few thousand bf and I thought I might not have too much trouble selling it then [and for that purpose I thought of going with the elec start 16HP and trailer options] for 70 cents on the dollar. [I can't find any used sawmills under $10K.]

I was wondering if the sentiment still is "forego the ceramics, auto water lube"; I shied away from the toe boards since I'm thinking "it's only for the first cut anyway" and "I already own bottle jacks". Whatta think?

Thanks.

I bought the LM29 in August. I went with the 13hp Honda, standard roller guides, and manual lube. So far, all I have been cutting is Eastern White Pine and it has performed flawlessly. The only issue I have is keeping everything level and straight as I don't have it on a very solid surface yet. I use an old scissor jack to raise the end of a tapered log and when I finish my mill shed, I will continue to use it. I bought a cheap hour meter and I probably have 30 hours on it so far. The lube only needs to drip very slowly so you really don't need to turn it on and off while you are cutting.

The pictures below show my 22X24' millshed, all cut on the mill. Most everything you see are from 12',2x8s(true) and the posts are 10', 4X6(true). The 1" boards are for the decking.

 

[SDB777]

Timber framing any of it with mortise-n-tenons?

Because this would be an awesome building to do that! Keep the photo's coming!



Scott (beans-n-cornbread) B

 

[dlabrie]

Timber framing any of it with mortise-n-tenons?

Because this would be an awesome building to do that! Keep the photo's coming!



Scott (beans-n-cornbread) B

No, Just nails and timber-lok screws