coincidence ?? I think NOT!!! WARNING! 394 Carnage @ INSIDE!!!

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Any chance that whatever came off in the cylider did that damage when the owner tried to start it rather than when the engine was running? It would explain the lack of severe hammering if it got caught in the port when trying to start the saw. He then might have wiggled it a bit and got the piece to drop out of the port and into the muffler and freeing up the saw. The owner then proceeds to assume everything is fine and goes ahead and starts the saw and runs as usual not knowing that he has badly deformed the edge of the piston crown and top of the port which begins to scuff and seize as everything warms up.
 
Any chance that whatever came off in the cylider did that damage when the owner tried to start it rather than when the engine was running? It would explain the lack of severe hammering if it got caught in the port when trying to start the saw. He then might have wiggled it a bit and got the piece to drop out of the port and into the muffler and freeing up the saw. The owner then proceeds to assume everything is fine and goes ahead and starts the saw and runs as usual not knowing that he has badly deformed the edge of the piston crown and top of the port which begins to scuff and seize as everything warms up.

I was wondering the same thing...

BUT as I ran my raker file over the top of the piston, I found more SLIGHT raised/depressed areas....could have been from pulling it over :confused:


good theory though..as he said it was getting harder and harder to start...::bang::bang:
 
Howdy,
No worries, I second guess everthing. Now that we got that out of the way, as a second thought, I'm liking the Ironman Theory more and more. From what I've seen in the past, foreign objects up to a certain size can stay in between the top of the piston and the cylinder and just make peck marks. When something the size of that electrode actually gets in between the side of the piston and the cylinder, even at idle, there's usually much more damage.
Regards
Gregg
 
394 carnage

When something the size of that electrode actually gets in between the side of the piston and the cylinder, even at idle, there's usually much more damage.

True, The ball bearing ball strap that got in my 266 at idle did more damage.
 
it's RUNNING!! arb fuel issue??

got it back together and running...

Odd Issue though....@ WOT for about 3-5 seconds it runs VERY rich, then it starts to clean out, and almost run lean to a point where it is borderline unsafe (to me, anyway :eek: probably 1000rpm...)

I took the carb bak off and adjusted the needle valve lever up a bit to see if it would help...not much change...

Idles good...but DOES IDLE down when on the clutch side...

Might it be time to put together a pressure tester kit?? flywheel side crank seal perhaps?????


Thanks guys!!!!

J
 
got it back together and running...

Odd Issue though....@ WOT for about 3-5 seconds it runs VERY rich, then it starts to clean out, and almost run lean to a point where it is borderline unsafe (to me, anyway :eek: probably 1000rpm...)

I took the carb bak off and adjusted the needle valve lever up a bit to see if it would help...not much change...

Idles good...but DOES IDLE down when on the clutch side...

Might it be time to put together a pressure tester kit?? flywheel side crank seal perhaps?????


Thanks guys!!!!

J

Nothing better than a vac tester and pressure supply when these type of problems show up, they can cut down on a lot of unessary dismantling and redoing of carb rebuilds. OPne of the best time savers I have around the shop.

Pioneerguy600
 
Moss

I agree!! that's what I run in ALL my saws...


Nothing better than a vac tester and pressure supply when these type of problems show up, they can cut down on a lot of unessary dismantling and redoing of carb rebuilds. OPne of the best time savers I have around the shop.

Pioneerguy600

Jerry...

thanks for the insight... thats my next step!!

J
 
Could be real rich at idle and loading up the motor. The rich to lean when at WOT could be the puddled fuel in the case being picked up and blown through. Might also explaing the drop in rpm when turned on its side. Not sure if this helps but you never know.
 
Actually, the issue seemed to be a case of the placebo effect (there were SO MANY UNKNOWN issues with this saw (the top end, we knew that..) such as wrong/too long bolts in the AV mounts, missing clutch spring, leaking bar oiler,
missing muffler bolts and heat shield, Dirty coil (weak spark), broken muffler corner, spike hanging off, broken plug boot, leaking fuel cap, etc etc...

Saw had LOW hrs, but worked HARD.

So when I only put in 5-6oz of fuel, and it ran and idled fine for 3-4 min, I figured i'd be good to atleast get in close to tuned in...

well, DUH, I failed to remember that the fuel goes WAY back into the foot pad on this saw....so the filter was probably 1/2 uncovered...and AIRtravels easier than FUEL

so that's probably where the lean @ WOT condition came from... LACK of fuel supply from my own SHORTCUTS.. UGH :bang:

at least it was easy...after 4 carb swaps...:censored:



THE NEXT FUN PART: filled the oil reservoir, and realized I forgot to insatll the carb screw plug for the carb box (which goes under the recoil, to hold it in place...) Plaed the saw on my padded chair/toll @ the benh and turned it on the clutch side, took the recoil off, placed it on the bench, then noticed a 10" puddle of BAR oil on the floor :angry::angry: and the saw SITTING in a puddle of bar oil on my SEAT!!! AARGH! :taped:

What a mess. Looks like there's a hole behind the adjuster?? we'll find out after I clean it shortly. ^&*%$#%

oil tank was dry too. so if thbere's a needed date with JB weld, i gotta clean again.



ANYONE ever see a bar adjuster go through a case???

one problem solved, on to another...

J
 
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