Complete Stihl 041AV Super step-by-step rebuild - very pic heavy! (for 041 newbies)

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Air filter after 10hrs :(
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and pic of the whole saw, could use a bit more daylight, well perhaps some other time.
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Wow!!! Great way to start posting, welcome.

REP sent.
 
Good question

I'm thinking of changing the points/condensor out for a new Nova module.


The first 041 flywheel I took off I used a regular "bolt-type" puller. I got some bolts that would fit into where the 3 bolts that hold the fins to the flywheel thread into, about 2 inches long. Then I used various washers to make sure that the small heads of the long bolts didn't pull through the slots in the puller. Turn away on the puller and it should pop right off.

If I may, why is it you need the flywheel off? The ignition system can be tuned with the flywheel in place if need be, FYI.
 
Thanks Brad.

Yeah, this is what I tried. I must have hit that nut on the end of the crank 100 times - no joy - looks like I'll have to come up with plan B. I think plan B looks like doing something with the flywheel mounting holes as was suggested.

Well if you don't have access to a puller, one method that might work if it isn't stuck on too hard is to remove the flywheel nut, and then thread it back on only one or two turns. This way it'll sit on the end of the crank and protrude out farther than the crank end AND the flywheel by about 3/16". Then hold on to the flywheel tight with one hand and give the nut a couple good whacks with a hard rubber or wooden mallet with the other. It's a bit of a trick to get good at, but it's how I removed these 041 flywheels because it's a lot faster and easier than setting up a 3-way puller, and I'm in the same boat as you with not having a proper Stihl threaded puller on hand. It would help to have a third arm if you have a spare person handy, that's for sure. If it's being stubborn though you're better off giving it more rapid lighter hits than to start hitting it harder - you don't want to shear the threads off the crank AND nut.
 
Well I'm pretty sure the early 041AVs came without the spacer and a different clutch and cover setup. I've had 2 of them and the first had none, 2nd had it.

Managed to find my musty old parts list and it does'nt indicate that ring which is listed for the new one (part 16 in newer IPL)
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... and the old style clutch
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Nope the bushing I'm talking about is #22 in that IPL, down by the rim drive drum drawing. It goes on AFTER the clutch drum. #16 is just a very thin washer that goes between the oiler drive washer and the oiler to prevent wear on the seal ring #15. If I don't have that #22 ring in place, the clutch drum protrudes out farther than the shoulder on the crank and out into the threaded portion, so there's nothing stopping the clutch from threading right down onto the drum itself. All of the 041AVs I've ever seen need this ring; the non-AV 041 has a slightly different crank and can get away without it (as according to the second diagram), but barely. I actually ground about 1/16" off the splined portion of my one rim drum so I could still use it without the spacer, but that was before I had an IPL and I thought it was somehow not quite the right drum for the saw.

BTW where did you get the rounded top cover for that saw? I've never seen one like that before - it looks like it's a later-model one that they tried to make fit in with the 032's more sleek lines. I like it though!

If you ask me, you might have a bit of a Frankensaw on your hands there. I don't believe Stihl ever built AV models with the one-piece muffler and clutch cover. It wouldn't make any sense since the rear handle section is obviously designed to accomodate the muffler grille piece. I think someone has put a non-AV muffler and cover on that saw after the fact. Who knows though, stranger things have happened. I considered putting one of those mufflers on my other AV because it they have four slits instead of two and should be a bit less restrictive; frankly my non-AV seems to run a bit better than the 61cc AV, and all else besides the muffler should really be pretty equal as far as the engine goes. I used identical AV topends to build both.
 
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Nope the bushing I'm talking about is #22 in that IPL, down by the rim drive drum drawing.
My bad, I meant that part (22).

BTW where did you get the rounded top cover for that saw? I've never seen one like that before - it looks like it's a later-model one that they tried to make fit in with the 032's more sleek lines. I like it though!
Nope, it's an original cover. "STIHL 041AV" clearly stamped on it.

If you ask me, you might have a bit of a Frankensaw on your hands there. I don't believe Stihl ever built AV models with the one-piece muffler and clutch cover. It wouldn't make any sense since the rear handle section is obviously designed to accomodate the muffler grille piece. I think someone has put a non-AV muffler and cover on that saw after the fact.
I don't think so, saw belonged to my father from day 1, he never mentioned replacing anything. Thing is, he bought one of the first ones , actually waited for it to hit the market. He did in fact wonder what the spare holes were for. Came with an English manual and German parts list, which would be unheard of these days.

Maybe Stihl did not have all the parts ready for production, so made the first batches frankensteining readily available parts until the new arrived. We may never know :confused:.

Here's a pic from the manual showing the saw as it came from the factory.

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Maybe Stihl did not have all the parts ready for production, so made the first batches frankensteining readily available parts until the new arrived. We may never know :confused:.

Here's a pic from the manual showing the saw as it came from the factory.

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I have seen some strange things with 041av's as I've been aquiring parts. I have 3 different clutch covers (1 with chainbrake) but none of the clutch/muffler cover as in the picture. I've only seen those on non-av saws.
I know that my father's first one was some sort of frankensaw. The nameplate reads: 041AV Farmboss, electronic. The ignition was points/condenser, and it had the chain-brake handgaurd but didn't have the chainbrake clutch cover. Who knows for sure, I'm sure Stihl was using up existing inventory at some point.
 
Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!
 
Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!

A carb rebuild will only work if the rest of the saw is in good order. Make sure it has good compression (get a tester or have it tested) usually over 130psi will make a saw "run". Check to see that you're getting spark, and at the proper time. The later is alittle harder, but if your flywheel is in the correct position 99.9% of the time it will be good.

I once pulled on one for 2 days, put a carb kit in it, checked the spark, replaced the fuel and impulse hoses, pulled, pulled and pulled. I ended up taking it apart and found that the rings were welded to the piston. Oh, well more parts for the others in the fleet! :D
 
Well it did run earlier this year but was running crappy. So i took the carb off and never ran again. So i rebuilt the carb and still no go. It will blow a nice flame out of the cylinder with the plug out but no go with it in and it was a new plug.
 
gaskets

Well it did run earlier this year but was running crappy. So i took the carb off and never ran again. So i rebuilt the carb and still no go. It will blow a nice flame out of the cylinder with the plug out but no go with it in and it was a new plug.

Have you checked to make sure everything is sealed up good? I know, I know there are alot of gaskets especially on the intake side of things. I can still get them from my dealer, but have started to make my own too.

What do you mean, "crappy"? Did it not hold idle and die? Not have power in the cut? Did it want to run higher rpm without the trigger pressed? Once we know this we could steer you alittle better.

Check the H/L carb adjustment screws. I think mine usually start out at 3/4 turn out from bottomed for both the H and L. Maybe try that first.
 
As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!
 
muffler screen

As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!

Only if you can see a visable muffler screen from the outside could it get constrictive. Most of the 041s didn't have a muffler screen to worry about. It could be a clogged fuel filter, or fuel line crack not allowing fuel to be delivered to the carb at higher rates, but allowing it to idle.
 
As far as crappy. It would cut out and pop every now and then at wot and felt alittle low on power in a big cut. I checked out the ignition and everything seemed in good order. When i rebuilt the carb i put in a new intake gasket. I'm going to check out the muffler a guy at work told me to check and make sure its not plugged up???? I'll check it out. Thanks in advance!

The muffler "pipe" could get plugged with carbon buildup if you're running the saw really rich on poor oil, but it sounds like you might have low compression and/or an air leak. Have you ever inspected the piston and cylinder? It should have been visible down the intake stack when you swapped the carbs over.

It could also be a bad fuel pickup line or simply a plugged fuel filter. The in-tank lines on these saws are really bad for cracking and leaking around the top where the plastic nipple piece is pushed into it.

Also, I'm assuming you've put all fresh gas in the saw? Old gas with a bit of water condensation will act like that, and not be good at all for the saw.

When you rebuilt the carb, are you sure you got everything in the right order? On the metering side, you put the gasket first, then the metering diaphragm, then the cap/cover. On the fuel pump side, it's diaphragm sheet first, then gasket, then cover (should be pretty obvious on this side). If you get the metering backwards it will usually flood the saw because it'll hold the metering needle valve open all the time. If the pump side is backwards I'm not sure you'd get anything to work at all.
 
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Yeah, this is what I tried. I must have hit that nut on the end of the crank 100 times - no joy - looks like I'll have to come up with plan B. I think plan B looks like doing something with the flywheel mounting holes as was suggested.

I ussually use my little 2 bolt puller when a few smart taps of the mallet don't work. I don't like to take to much of a chance of messing up the crank
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?).

It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch?

I am also trying to figure out the oiling system. I have adjusted the oiler control knob both ways and it hasn't seemed to have made a difference. I haven't been able to get it to sling a stream at all. Should I be worried about the oiler as I haven't found any leaks thus far. Looking from the top, which way is the knob to be turned to increase/decrease oil displacement? I am under the assumption that it locks out also, or will it come out if turned to far in one direction?

Any help would be appreciated. I have already submitted a request for a paper manual with Stihl, but if anyone has an electronic version that they would be willing to send over that would be great(I will submit a request in the manual request thread also if I don't get a reply here).

Note: OP, thanks for the due diligence in updating the build with pictures. :clap:
 
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Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?).

It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch?

I am also trying to figure out the oiling system. I have adjusted the oiler control knob both ways and it hasn't seemed to have made a difference. I haven't been able to get it to sling a stream at all. Should I be worried about the oiler as I haven't found any leaks thus far. Looking from the top, which way is the knob to be turned to increase/decrease oil displacement? I am under the assumption that it locks out also, or will it come out if turned to far in one direction?

Any help would be appreciated. I have already submitted a request for a paper manual with Stihl, but if anyone has an electronic version that they would be willing to send over that would be great(I will submit a request in the manual request thread also if I don't get a reply here).

Note: OP, thanks for the due diligence in updating the build with pictures. :clap:

If it's idleing down ok, then try some new clutch springs.
 
Awesome post with pictures. I just rebuilt the carb on my 041av and the damn thing still won't start. Looks like its flooding it self out. Any suggestions or things I should look for? Thanks!

If you take the carb off again check the position/height of the metering needle arm relative to the base of the carb, I had the same thing happen and the arm was a ways out of adjustment. They fit a variety of carb models and some require different height adjustments for the particular carb model. The top of the arm should be level with the base, too far under and you get too much fuel. JJuday
 
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