Converted over to 3/8" pitch chain on my MS260 Pro

[Philbert]

So what do I ask for, narrow kerf? I'm just used to wood working...narrow kerf blades really help on table saws etca nd are becoming the norm...seems like the same concept...why cut more wood and eat power when you can slice through a thin cut...

You are right that they are similar in concept to the narrow kerf circular saw blades. Also similar is that there are different blades for each. More space between the teeth means chips clear faster. On a 10 inch table saw, you might run a 12 tooth blade for rough cutting. On a larger chainsaw, you can run skip tooth chain (fewer cutters).

If you are cutting only hardwood or softwood on your table saw, you might use a blade ground at different angles. Same thing with chainsaw chains. Or you can choose a 'all purpose / combination' blade or chain.

The narrow kerf /low profile chains draw less power and cut slower. Thicker, heavier chains hold up better in heavier cutting, but require beefier saws.

You have to have a compatible bar. If the bar is thicker than the chain, it will bind. If the bar is designed for narrow kerf chain, standard width chain will not run right on it, and the bar will wear fast. The chain could also hang up on the sprocket cover, etc.

Your saw may already be running narrow kerf chain if it is electric or a smaller gas saw. The names get confusing between brands. There is narrow kerf chain, and narrow kerf chain that is also low profile. Look through the on-line catalogs for Stihl, Oregon, etc., or take your saw to a dealer that knows their stuff to ask.

Philbert

 

[MostShady1]

Typically, the bigger the pitch, the more power is needed to spin the chain.

Even the Wild Thing runs a 3/8 pitch, so I don't understand how anyone can say the 260 doesn't have enough A$$! Just don't try running the big bars on smaller saws, that never makes sense.:bang:

 

[Slamm]

I have a modded 260 that runs a 20" bar with 3/8" semi-chisel in either full skip or full comp. I've never thought it was underpowered for its size. It will pull the full bar just fine in hardwoods.

Sam

 

[Evan]

this is my 026 18" bar and oregon lgx I run this chain on everything from the 026 to the 066 with its 32" bar, i like it alot and price is good to

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[flyboy]

3/8" is much much faster on my 026.....because of the fact that I am SOOOOOOOOOOOO terrible at filing .325" chain. I do a pretty decent job on 3/8" but I cannot seem to file .325.

I only cut hardwood on the right coast. The 026 had no issue with 3/8 before a muffler mod. It takes about 4 minutes to muff mod an 026 and it definitely has no issue with 3/8 after the mod.

I too wanted to share chains and bars with my 031s. The only chain I own is Stihl 33RSC.

 

[riesenbr549]

.325 Chain is more for homeowner low power saws . it streches very easy thats why they stop at 20" you would never keep it tight ! Imo .325 chain is a waste of money even on smaller saws . I swiched my 260 to .375 and havent looked back chain last alot longer and stays tight ! I run a 8 pin rim part #11210071040

 

[MostShady1]

.325 Chain is more for homeowner low power saws . it streches very easy thats why they stop at 20" you would never keep it tight ! Imo .325 chain is a waste of money even on smaller saws . I swiched my 260 to .375 and havent looked back chain last alot longer and stays tight ! I run a 8 pin rim part #11210071040

what length are you running on yours. I have 2 spare Stihl 16" bars with chains, so i figured it would be cheaper for me to swap the sprocket off the powerhead (when it gets here) than to buy new bars and chains just for that saw.

 

[huskystihl]

.325 with a 16" will cut faster than a 3/8 in any wood. Thats like comapring a 404 vs a 3/8 on a ms 390. Just like any other chain, don't hit the ground and stay away from dirty wood "if possible" and you can cut for days. I coverted mine due to bulk chain and can tell you it slowed it down even with the muff drilled. As someone said before stihl designed it that way for a reason. Before my 5100's went by by my 20" .325 would hang if not beat my 3/8 16", it's just physics.

 

[riesenbr549]

I run a 16" i would stick to a 7pin if you go bigger than 16" thou .
I agree .325 cuts faster on a smaller saw but it cant take the abuse of the higher hp saws . its like comparing #50 chain to #60 roller chain . Most shops they are the same price so why run a .325? If running .375 slows your saw down that much then you need a bigger saw!

 

[046]

changed my 026 to 3/8 for this exact reason
another benefit is being able to switch bars in a pinch with my 046.

046 really blasts running a 16in bar with 3/8

I did it on mine when it was new. I buy my chain in bulk and did not want to have an extra size roll around just for that saw. It cuts and runs just fine. The 260 is a great ground limbing saw. If I am going to buck wood, I grab a bigger saw.

 

[woodyman]

.325 with a 16" will cut faster than a 3/8 in any wood. Thats like comapring a 404 vs a 3/8 on a ms 390. Just like any other chain, don't hit the ground and stay away from dirty wood "if possible" and you can cut for days. I coverted mine due to bulk chain and can tell you it slowed it down even with the muff drilled. As someone said before stihl designed it that way for a reason. Before my 5100's went by by my 20" .325 would hang if not beat my 3/8 16", it's just physics.

You are so right:agree2:I have a 16" .325X.058 on my ported NE346XP.I mainly use the saw for limbing and it just slices through the small limbs.Sure I could put a 20" with 3/8's full comp on it but its a limbing saw.I do have a Dolmar 5100 that I have run a 16" 3/8X.050 with 30RC and its a little jumpie on the limbs.

Alot of the trees I cut have alot of limbs and I take all the wood,I cut it down to the size of my finger.

 

[MostShady1]

My 260 Pro should be here on Tuesday. (It better be, I'm Jonesin')

Unfortunately, it's coming with the .325 on it. Anybody here have a .375 for sale or trade, or should I just hit the local dealer up for one?

 

[Slamm]

My 260 Pro should be here on Tuesday. (It better be, I'm Jonesin')

Unfortunately, it's coming with the .325 on it. Anybody here have a .375 for sale or trade, or should I just hit the local dealer up for one?

The dealer should swap it for you. Mine did/does.

Sam

 

[Evan]

yes if its comeing from a dealer id have them put whatever you want on it. if they dont id find another dealer

 

[MostShady1]

No such luck, not a dealer buy. I rolled the dice and took a chance on a steal on the Bay!

 

[Philbert]

No such luck, not a dealer buy. I rolled the dice and took a chance on a steal on the Bay!

I am not encouraging you to trade, as I believe that the .325 set up is better on that saw. Maybe try it first.

But if you want to change, you should be able to re-sell the bar, chain, and and sprocket on CL or eBay as long as they are in good shape, to recoup some your costs for the new set up.

Philbert

 

[HittinSteel]

Do a search on the subject. It was discussed in depth not too long ago. Also .325 only goes up to 20". If that means anything to you.:greenchainsaw:

Rookie, I saw a guy on the local Craigslist advertising a 260 with a 24" bar Guess it might matter to him.

 

[Taxmantoo]

No such luck, not a dealer buy. I rolled the dice and took a chance on a steal on the Bay!

Is it "new"?
I'd run the serial number by a dealer to make sure Stihl doesn't have it registered as stolen.

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=126180

 

[MostShady1]

Is it "new"?
I'd run the serial number by a dealer to make sure Stihl doesn't have it registered as stolen.

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=126180

No, it was lightly used. It shows, what i would call, about one seasons worth of wear. Maybe longer for whoever had it before. He couldn't remember exactly what year it was, so I intend to run the number anyway.

With the .325 pitch, what makes them so much harder to sharpen? I have always run 3/8 on all of my saws, and I sharpen them with an Oregon Bench Mount chain sharpener. If I keep it in .325, and buy new chains, what will I have to do differently when I sharpen them?

 

[Philbert]

With the .325 pitch, what makes them so much harder to sharpen? I have always run 3/8 on all of my saws, and I sharpen them with an Oregon Bench Mount chain sharpener. If I keep it in .325, and buy new chains, what will I have to do differently when I sharpen them

???????????????

They are not any harder to sharpen. You just need to use the right size file (and file holder if you use one) or the right size wheel for your grinder.

You probably use the same wheel (3/16") for both your .325 and 3/8" chains, but will need a smaller file (3/16" instead of 7/32").

Philbert