Conveyor build

[Erik B]

With the balance issue worked out took her for a test lift. With the tires like this more weight is to the front. 2 people hanging couldn't get it to even flinch. Higher up makes it even better. About 7 ft high at the lowest point here.

With everything checking out fine it's time for disassembly and final welding. Supported the far end and raised the conveyor with the hoist on the other end after unbolting everything.

I can then just simply pull the whole running gear out. This is why I made it bolt on.

Need to add some gussets here and there too so I'll do that now. Plus I can roll it around/over for easier welding. Cheat when you can!

Gussets all tacked in. Weight is a non issue on the front end so only helps.

All the welding done now so it's the pain of cleaning, smoothing to get ready for paint. Not my favorite part of any build, that's for sure.

It's going to take a few days to get it all smoothed and cleaned. probably paint it in 2 sessions. Not spraying it, just brush and roller as I just want some kind of protection from rust on it. I'll post some paint and finish pics of it then.

Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
Erik B

 

[Joesell]

Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
Erik B

I hope so. Otherwise your going to have to scrap the whole thing!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
Erik B

Yes.

 

[Erik B]

Glad to hear that. Sometimes it is the littlest things that make you hit your forehead with an 'aw shucks'

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Do you have a spot to put the rod holding your toolbox draws in when you are digging thru your tool box?
Erik B

Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.

Going back together as we speak and will be done the first of the week.

 

[Joesell]

Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.

Going back together as we speak and will be done the first of the week.

What kind of second rate build is this? You don't have a special "rod holder"? Your really cutting some big corners on this build!

 

[Erik B]

Here you go EriK. The rod fits into the same bracket. You just put the short end in it and it'll swing out of the way.

Going back together as we speak and will be done the first of the week.

Great idea making it do double duty

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

All cleaned up and started painting. I did one side of the main framework and some smaller pieces. dad came down to help as it takes a while with all the nooks and crannies. Used hardener in the paint so there was a time issue.

Covers pretty good with a brush and mini roller. Would have been quicker with a sprayer but more of a mess and would have used a LOT more paint.

Hubs are getting grey to match the rims as close as I can.

Flip the main frame over and did the lowers as well. They were small enough we could flip them over and get it all done in one shot. Used a quart of paint to do all this plus the small pieces hanging.

On the bottom of the axle tube, in the center and inside the outer axle tube I'll put a coat of graphite paint. Sometimes called Slip Plate. Makes thing slide freely as it wears.

Here's the inside of the outer tube coated. with it. It's used on farm equipment a lot of times in grain wagons and such to keep stuff sliding easily.

You can get it at most Ag equipment dealers. Really useful stuff for a lot of different apllications. Just don't try to walk on it on a slope. You slide right down!

Painting all done and put the caster all back on. With it easy to move now I'll slide it under the conveyor and start reassambling it.

On some of the pivots and where the rollers are I'm gun driiling the bolts and installing press in zerk fittings. Gun drilling the 5/8" bolt here. It a grade 5 so a sharp bit, oil and clean out strokes are needed.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Here's the press in zerk. I ream the hole to .245

Then just press it in with the arbor press. Quick and easy.

Before pressing in I crossdrilled through one side. You want to drill before the zerk is in so you can blow it out clean.

Loose assembling the lower framework here and slid the axle in. Out the hubs on as well.

This is the fun part of any build as it comes together quickly. So far so good.

Put the tool box in and the keeper also doubles as a rod holder when you want in the box. Pat. Pending

Cut all the spacer to length and ground some wrench flats on them. I guess they are wheel nut locks as well.

Close up of the 7/8" wrench flats.

Cut the as short as I could so they don't stick out any more than necessary. Being able to move/adjust with the 3/4" drive ratchet will be nice when by myself.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I got customs spinners on my ride now! :0

Got it all painted and back together so here are some finished pics for you.

 

[Erik B]

Looks really good. Now we need to see it in action.

 

[Philbert]

I was waiting to see how you clean off all the rust and scale before painting, and you skipped right over that!

Wire brush (hand or powered)? Sand paper? Sand blast?

No primer paint?

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

This is at a level 36 inches high. It will go down to 30 inches but that is a little low for me but I wanted the adjustment, just in case.

This is at full extension with the jack. 7 ft at the end of the conveyor so that is fine for a dump trailer and normal truck. I think I'm going to make up an extension to slip on the end of the javck as it is just so easy to use.

Now I'll show the axle slide. I remove the U collar that holds the knuckle straight. The 3/4" bolt holds it in place.

Once off the outside part of the knuckle is the same as the inner. This will allow the whole thing to slide in flush. With the scissors jack and the hydraulic jack locked, you can take all the weight off the wheels.

Just push it all in flush. The casters are holding all the weight now but you can let it back down if you want the tires toi support as well.

Now I can back a truck up and load/unload from it's side. Will save so many steps.

Truck backed in and everything looks fine. Level height here is 54 inches.

Bad pic but you get the idea.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Side reach is kept at a minimum this way. If the wheels was sticking out I'd have to be a lot further away. You need the width for stability when moving and such.

Close up of oppisite side shows the amount of adjustment.

Jack was almost all the way up and it looks like 56 inches is the max at level.

I'm going to make and extension so that the jack can take it on up. Started on that today and when I get that done I'll show max height and the wheels at swivel.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I was waiting to see how you clean off all the rust and scale before painting, and you skipped right over that!

Wire brush (hand or powered)? Sand paper? Sand blast?

No primer paint?

Thanks.

Philbert

I went over everything with the little angle grinder shown before with 80 grit and a soft pad. I did this while taking all the weld splatter off and such. Not worth sandblasting to me as of the mess. Same thing with primer. I've had good luck with just straight to paint in the past but I don't let my equipment sit outside in the weather either. It's a tool and it will get used and scratched up in time.

 

[zogger]

Another great build!

Never knew about the graphite paint, I tried just the graphite spray stuff on the fiskars but it wears off fast.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Put some sideboards on it so the wood doesn't fall off the sides.

 

[tla100]

Awesome build! I have been thinking about getting an old elevator. I have no where near the craftsmanship and ability you have.

Yeah I found that graphite paint a while back, the forks on my skidloader were a pain to slide side-to-side. Sprayed that on and they slide like a dream now. Actually, too slippery. It wears nice, and remains slick for a long time.

Oh, for your scissor jacks, trick I learned with camper jacks, put that socket on a cordless drill and you will be up and down in no time.

 

[fordf150]

I need/want to build a new conveyor for my processor but after watching this one come together I'm not going to post any pictures of my build....with my skills and equipment my build thread would resemble Sanford and Son compared to this

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

For the ram extension I'm going to try a simple, slip on affair. End will have a hole to attach like the jack has. Weight will keep it in place. I started by gun drilling a large round to 1.25" all the way through.

haft I'm going to use is 1.37" and the jack had a metric size. Didn't have the drill or reamer in the size and no boring bar. My friend Tony used a boring bar and put the in size for me. Works perfect and smooth as silk. Thanks Tony!

I had a 1.37" stainless bar that was true so I used that. Drille a 5/8" hole for the upper pin.

Tried it out and it was fine so I TIG welded the mild and stainless together.

Finished extension.

Rolled it out with the extension on and works fine.Still have a tilt on the roller table so that is nice.

With the extension in I have a reach of 9 ft to the bottom of the top roller.

If you look on the rail you will see the roller keepers. I jack it up and put them in. Then release till it rests on them. Then un pin the jack and put the extension in. Not the slickest but it was a comprimise as it's easier than the winch. I still have that as a backup too to go even higher if needed.

Here's the keepers again.