Crank Bearing Removal (PIC HEAVY)

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lly_duramax

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I wanted to post a thread on how I remove crankshaft bearings. I can't remember seeing a thread with specifics on removing crank bearings. I don't have anywhere near the experiance that the site builders have, so if some of them want to chime in it would be welcomed. I am in the process of replacing the crank bearings in an 064AV. The saw ran pretty poorly before I tore it down. The piston was worn pretty badly and all of the machining marks were gone. I will be replacing it with a Meteor and Caber rings. I noticed the crank turned very rough and the bearings were pretty cruddy. Here are some pics.

When I split the case the clutch side bearing stayed in the case. I'll be pressing it out using a hydraulic press at work.
P1010104_zps83884808.jpg

Here is a tool I bought to remove the crank bearings set up on the crank.
P1010101_zps45a3f5cb.jpg

P1010102_zps57e96108.jpg

Here is a pic of the cruddy flywheel side bearing.
P1010105_zps4b909f34.jpg

I'll follow up with how I install them when I get my parts in.
 
Did you use heat to pull the crank and bearing together?
I use to pull then that way but invested in a case splitter.
Those are someGood tools to have.
 
I like the bearing puller. Would be very handy for getting bearings off clamshell cranks. Can you tell us where it came from pls ?
 
a quick easy way to remove crank bearings from cases or shafts if you have one around is an air hammer/chisel with a hammer bit. If you give it a couple short blasts it pops them right out no problem and I haven't had any damage to a case or crank yet. You can even hold the crank or case in one had and pop it out with the air hammer.
 
a quick easy way to remove crank bearings from cases or shafts if you have one around is an air hammer/chisel with a hammer bit. If you give it a couple short blasts it pops them right out no problem and I haven't had any damage to a case or crank yet. You can even hold the crank or case in one had and pop it out with the air hammer.

Not sure I understand this method for removing bearings from a crankshaft. How do you get the hammer between the bearing and the cam lobe ?
 
Not sure I understand this method for removing bearings from a crankshaft. How do you get the hammer between the bearing and the cam lobe ?

I just hit one side of the bearing where I can get the air hammer on it from the "back" side, so it pushes the bearing off the crank. Not sure if it would work as nice on bearings you are planning on re using but it doesn't seem to hurt them. I will say if I pull bearings though I am replacing them and don't care if they are saved or not.
 
Would be very handy for getting bearings off clamshell cranks.
Interesting - are the Stihl clamshell bearings pressed on (i.e. an interference fit, for the benefit of certain members who don't understand what that means)? The bearings on the Poulan clamshells I have worked on just slide on. They fit very close but no force is required.
 
That is what makes you think that it is an interference fit? The Stihl bearings fit a tad tighter? Than the Poulans? I have never
done the cold bearing bullchit, but it should work pretty good, but that doesn't make it an interference fit....I am not a machinist,
and I gather that no one else is here also. But if you look at the dimensions of a crank, and a bearing, and they are both 17mm,
then there is no "interference". And if you can install the bearing in either direction, that would give me more ammo, as this interference should "interfere" closer to one side, or the other... I would think, I guess. But I am no longer sure of much....
 
Interesting - are the Stihl clamshell bearings pressed on (i.e. an interference fit, for the benefit of certain members who don't understand what that means)? The bearings on the Poulan clamshells I have worked on just slide on. They fit very close but no force is required.

I haven't had one hang up more then a 'tap' would set free. I would heat it some then "tap" again until it freed up.
 
Interference fit means that there is a difference in dimensions, the cold bearing thing makes all of the fitments go easier...
An interference fit means that with both parts at the same temperature the ID is too small to fit over the OD, or any other mechanical fitment with a negative clearance. If you have to change the temperature of one part relative to the other to make them fit together (or use a press), then it is an interference fit.
 
e tightness of fit is controlled by amount of interference; the "allowance". Formulas exist to compute this allowance (planned difference from nominal size) that will result in various strengths of fit such as loose fit, light interference fit, and interference fit. The value of the allowance depends on which material is being used, how big the parts are, and what degree of tightness is desired. Such values have already been worked out in the past for many standard applications, and they are available to engineers in the form of tables, obviating the need for re-derivation. Therefore, if a loose fit is desired for a 10 mm (0.394 in) shaft made of 303 stainless steel, the engineer can look up the needed allowance in a reference book or computer program, rather than using a formula to calculate it. For non-commercial parts, there are rules of thumb for steel and aluminum. For tight fits the bore diametrical tolerances for a press fit with a rod constraint are given by subtracting 0.0001–0.0003 inches (1–3 tenths; slang for ten-thousandths – (0.003–0.010 mm)). The rod tolerance, with a bore size constraint, can be found by adding 1–3 tenths to the given bore diameter. For slip fits the bore diameter must be 0.0005–0.0008 inches (0.012–0.020 mm) wider than the rod. Transversely, the rod must be 0.0005–0.0008 inches (0.012–0.020 mm) under the given bore diameter. These broad guidelines save the trouble of having to calculate or look up tolerances for a single instance piece.
Assembling

There are two basic methods for assembling an oversize shaft into an undersized hole, sometimes used in combination:

  1. force,
  2. thermal expansion or contraction.
Force
There are at least three different terms used to describe an interference fit created via force: press fit, friction fit, and hydraulic dilation.[2][3]

Press fit is achieved with presses that can press the parts together with very large amounts of force. The presses are generally hydraulic, although small hand-operated presses (such as arbor presses) may operate by means of the mechanical advantage supplied by a jackscrew or by a gear reduction driving a rack and pinion. The amount of force applied in hydraulic presses may be anything from a few pounds for the tiniest parts to hundreds of tons for the largest parts.

Often the edges of shafts and holes are chamfered (beveled). The chamfer forms a guide for the pressing movement, helping to distribute the force evenly around the circumference of the hole, to allow the compression to occur gradually instead of all at once, thus helping the pressing operation to be smoother, to be more easily controlled, and to require less power (less force at any one instant of time), and to assist in aligning the shaft parallel with the hole it is being pressed into.

Thermal expansion or contraction
Most materials expand when heated and shrink when cooled. Enveloping parts are heated (e.g., with torches or gas ovens) and assembled into position while hot, then allowed to cool and contract back to their former size, except for the compression that results from each interfering with the other. This is also referred to as shrink-fitting. Railroad axles, wheels, and tires are typically assembled in this way. Alternatively, the enveloped part may be cooled before assembly such that it slides easily into its mating part. Upon warming, it expands and interferes. Cooling is often preferable as it is less likely than heating to change material properties, e.g., assembling a hardened gear onto a shaft, where the risk exists of heating the gear too much and drawing its temper.

See also
References
  1. "Coupling Design and Selection". Retrieved 2010-01-30.
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I used to work in aircraft assembly plant. We called this a close tolerance fit. Use to drop fasteners in liquid nitrogen and use a heat gun on the part with hole in it. You could about drop the fastener in or tap in with a dead blow hammer. Works well but here in my world, i can't get liquid nitrogen to immerse a crank in. So I usually set the bearing on top of the wood stove.
 

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