creasote build up on inside of stove..is it normal?

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066blaster

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I just scraped the inside of my stove 2 days ago, there was a crusty build up. Now 1 side has a layer of black gooey creasote. I've been burning mostly 2 year seasoned hickory. Is this normal?20151128_202140.jpgkinda hard to tell from the pic but it looks like it was sprayed with gloss black paint. Also it is a insert. I have a big chimney, I haven't measured but it's bigger than 8 inches. My 8 inch brush barely make contact when I cleaned it. Also do I need to clean on the top of the stove that is inside the fireplace I can see crusty chunks up in there.
 
Yes, you should clean the top inner surface of your insert. Usually, there's a way to drop that part down before sweeping the chimney so you avoid creosote chunks on top of the baffle.

Try using a moisture meter to read your wood moisture on a freshly split surface. By "2 year seasoned", do you mean wood that's been split & stacked for 2 years, or wood from a tree that died 2 years ago & was split last week?
 
Yes, you should clean the top inner surface of your insert. Usually, there's a way to drop that part down before sweeping the chimney so you avoid creosote chunks on top of the baffle.

Try using a moisture meter to read your wood moisture on a freshly split surface. By "2 year seasoned", do you mean wood that's been split & stacked for 2 years, or wood from a tree that died 2 years ago & was split last week?
Split and stacked for 2 years.
 
Split and stacked for 2 years.

Hmmmm....hickory should be ready after 2-3 years, if stacked out in the open off the ground. As others have already written, creosote buildup occurs from wet wood/low burn temps, and/or inadequate air flow up the chimney.

If you go outside when you're burning (with a well established fire) and see smoke right at the exit of your chimney, your fire may not be hot enough.
 
Stacked outside, against the Southside of a lean too. Under the overhang. I don't think I'm getting enough draft through the stove. When i open the door it flames up. I think the chimney is fine. Maybe I should get a grate for it.. the softer woods have been burning fine. All I have left is hickory,oak and ironwood.
 
Do you have the ability to measure the temp of your stove or flue?

I think, based on your previous threads, that you aren't burning the stove hot enough and you need to reduce the size of your chimney to not only create a better draft, but keep the entire chimney hot. That means dropping an insulated liner down your existing chimney.

Another thought.... Whoever installed your insert may not have insulated the voids generated between the insert and the fireplace. There may be a fresh air supply cooling off the area around the insert and sending heat up the chimney.
 
20151129_205301.jpg 20151129_204748.jpg 20151129_204822.jpg The weird thing is, it was working really good. But I was burning, baswood,boxelder,silver maple, 2x4's, and putting some oak in at night . I had to move the draft to half open or less or it got too hot. Now I been burning hickory splits and it's hard to keep it going with it all the way open. And like I say if I open the door it flames up instantly. Do I need to take the panel off by the draft adjuster and clean something?
 

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My Blaze King Princess and a friends Blaze King King do that too. Some areas will get pretty thick with cresosote.

Don't know why, my wood is dry and it's not really possible to burn it cold.

I just scraped the inside of my stove 2 days ago, there was a crusty build up. Now 1 side has a layer of black gooey creasote. I've been burning mostly 2 year seasoned hickory. Is this normal?View attachment 464933kinda hard to tell from the pic but it looks like it was sprayed with gloss black paint. Also it is a insert. I have a big chimney, I haven't measured but it's bigger than 8 inches. My 8 inch brush barely make contact when I cleaned it. Also do I need to clean on the top of the stove that is inside the fireplace I can see crusty chunks up in there.
 
Do I need to take the panel off by the draft adjuster and clean something?
I think that would be a great idea.
When you have the stove pulled out, buy and install a nice stainless liner, not cheap, but a world of difference on an insert.
Check the draft control and make sure it is working and clean it while you have it out.
Also post pictures of the wood.
 
Is the chimney cap clean and the flue clear. If you don't have good draft and the wood is smoldering that could cause it. My BK gets Crusty as a $10 whore inside.... but that's on the low slow burn with no fire and smoldering wood.
 
My Blaze King Princess and a friends Blaze King King do that too. Some areas will get pretty thick with cresosote.

Don't know why, my wood is dry and it's not really possible to burn it cold.

Is the chimney cap clean and the flue clear. If you don't have good draft and the wood is smoldering that could cause it. My BK gets Crusty as a $10 whore inside.... but that's on the low slow burn with no fire and smoldering wood.
Maybe these should be on the list of don't buy stoves.
The only place on my stove or stove pipe that has any creosote is the top of the cap and the front inside the stove (the air supplies for the secondary burn).
I have not cleaned the pipe in 2yrs, just the cap.
I guess you could count the small amount I clean of the glass build up as well. A piece of steel wool, a little effort, and 2min every 2-3 weeks is all thats needed to clean it off.
 
What makes you think that a stove that gets some cresote inside would be a "don't buy"? I posted to the OP just to let him know it's not anything to really worry about.

The Blaze King stoves are easily in the top 5 of stoves used around here. They are very well liked.



Maybe these should be on the list of don't buy stoves.
The only place on my stove or stove pipe that has any creosote is the top of the cap and the front inside the stove (the air supplies for the secondary burn).
I have not cleaned the pipe in 2yrs, just the cap.
I guess you could count the small amount I clean of the glass build up as well. A piece of steel wool, a little effort, and 2min every 2-3 weeks is all thats needed to clean it off.
 
If it's getting "thick creosote " and thats normal it would not be a top pick for me.
Not sure how they actually work in the real world as I've not personally owned one. Just stating my opinion based on what the inside of my stove and pipe look like:).
What kind of wood do you guys normally burn in them.
 
Dunno, I don't really give a rat's ass what the inside of my stove looks like as long as it keeps my house warm and isn't dangerous! :p My chimney stays clean.

We use firewood in the stoves, duh. :omg::lol:
 
I agree with SGT. Schultz.
Do you have the ability to measure the temp of your stove or flue?

I think, based on your previous threads, that you aren't burning the stove hot enough and you need to reduce the size of your chimney to not only create a better draft, but keep the entire chimney hot. That means dropping an insulated liner down your existing chimney.

Another thought.... Whoever installed your insert may not have insulated the voids generated between the insert and the fireplace. There may be a fresh air supply cooling off the area around the insert and sending heat up the chimney.
My brother installed an insulated chimney for my sister in the house we were raised in. the flue pipe was upside down.. The crimped ends should be down not up. Many people believe this keeps the creosote running back into the stove . Might go hand in hand as a benefit but in real truth this keeps the draft stronger BECAUSE the outside air has to swirl or change direction in order to blend with the direction of the airflow in the chimney. The little bit of air leakage around a crimp connection can slow / thus cool a draft in a chimney. If the flue to insulated pipe adapter is loose or rusted through (leaking) That can cool /slow your draft. I realize you have an insert but tidbits like this should help you analyze things easier.
An Old Timer saying is you can't build a chimney too tall or too small. Not true if extremes are jacked with but this saying helps you understand a chimney.
Another concept I believe is that a chimney needs to be running at least (internal) 250 F. or more (300 is better) to keep clean. A properly banked stove will burn cleaner but many do not acknowledge the chimney (DRAFT) is still HOT . Your Flame is burning the fuel in the SMOKE not the wood itself.
From what I read in comments above I sincerely believe your draft is 99.999% of your problem. Somehow it is pulling external air allowing the SMOKE (DRAFT) to COOL. The moisture in the creosote is from moisture in the air supply condensing from a cold chimney.
My HUMBLE OPINION.
 
View attachment 465208 View attachment 465209 View attachment 465210 The weird thing is, it was working really good. But I was burning, baswood,boxelder,silver maple, 2x4's, and putting some oak in at night . I had to move the draft to half open or less or it got too hot. Now I been burning hickory splits and it's hard to keep it going with it all the way open. And like I say if I open the door it flames up instantly. Do I need to take the panel off by the draft adjuster and clean something?

The insulation around the trim doesn't mean the entire cavity has been insulated. Especially at the damper. The lack of a liner may mean the area around the top of the stove where the fireplace damper would normally be may not be insulated at all.

Pull the trim and see what's in there.


Sent from a field
 

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