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kotchz

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The saw has only a few hours on it. It's just that I've had it for a couple of years now. I go to start it and I can't pull the rope. The chain turns by hand fine. I pull the spark plug and I can turn the engine over fine with the rope. I believe it's been like that since I bought it new but just didn't bother with it. If I continue trying to pull the rope it will suddenly break free if I can find the patience. Help
 
you might want to check your starter return spring. i've seen problems when they sit idle in humid or wet environments. they can get rusty and the extra friction makes them unusable. also you might want to check the flywheel key, that is ignition timing.
 
I appreciate the replies but as I said as soon as I remove the spark plug it turns over easily so the starter should be ok. As I pull the rope it is very difficult through the whole cycle of the motor. Improper valve timing does sound interesting but then when it does break free why would it run fine? I typically just put it away before it ever does break free cause my arm is about broken by this time. What about something causing the exhaust valve to stick? These motors do not have a compression release correct?
 
I appreciate the replies but as I said as soon as I remove the spark plug it turns over easily so the starter should be ok. As I pull the rope it is very difficult through the whole cycle of the motor. Improper valve timing does sound interesting but then when it does break free why would it run fine? I typically just put it away before it ever does break free cause my arm is about broken by this time. What about something causing the exhaust valve to stick? These motors do not have a compression release correct?

sorry but you're not being clear. you say it runs fine??? i thought you couldn't start it, we can't help you with your problems if we can't communicate. try this. pull the starter rope with the spark plug in but the ignition switch off. does it feel different than with the ignition on? by the way, your 330t, like all chainsaws that i have encountered, does not have poppet valves, like most four stroke machines. it is what's called a piston ported two stroke, you should look that up and figure it out. google is your friend.
 
Sorry about that screw up on my part. Yes after pulling on the cord like this slow pop....pop....pop. That is the time that it takes to pull the cord all the way because it is that hard. One foot on the guard and one hand on the handle. After about 100 pulls (exaguration) it suddenly pulls easily. I really haven't messed with it that much. As I said i took the spark plug out and it pulls easily. It acts like this every time that I have taken it out of the garage. If I shut it off for a short time after using it will pull easily and start but if I remember correctly it will not pull easily if left off for any length of time. And no it doesn't matter if the ignition is off or on.
 
Sorry about that screw up on my part. Yes after pulling on the cord like this slow pop....pop....pop. That is the time that it takes to pull the cord all the way because it is that hard. One foot on the guard and one hand on the handle. After about 100 pulls (exaguration) it suddenly pulls easily. I really haven't messed with it that much. As I said i took the spark plug out and it pulls easily. It acts like this every time that I have taken it out of the garage. If I shut it off for a short time after using it will pull easily and start but if I remember correctly it will not pull easily if left off for any length of time. And no it doesn't matter if the ignition is off or on.

this is my starting drill for the 330/360 and these are excellent saws.

cold:

pull out choke (i can't remember if you need to depress the throttle lever to do this but you may need to.) pull hard several times until you hear the first "pop" when the spark plug ignites the fuel. push the choke lever back in but don't touch the throttle lever since it is now locked in the high idle position until you pull on the throttle lever. pull hard on the starter until it starts. let it run at high idle until it is warm. these echos are a little cold blooded and need a little time to warm up. after the engine is warm, operate the throttle lever. it should spin up smoothly. when you release the throttle lever it will return to normal low idle speed.

hot:

i hold the saw by the rear handle in my right hand and fully depress the throttle lever. (wfo) with the left hand pull smartly on the starter. this is called "drop starting," though usually a saw is held by its front handle, not the back. but top handles have a different balance. be aware that the user manual recommends the method you use, on the ground, foot on rear handle, for safety reasons. since these saws are mostly used by climbers, that doesn't make much sense. you'd have to rappel down to start and climb the tree again.

your description of the saw being hard to pull over initially puzzles me. it sound like an ignition problem, either timing (flywheel) or the coil is grounded by a defective or improperly operated switch. also, do you have any other experience operating chainsaws? i'm just wondering if you possess the physical strength required (no offense intended, strength is an acquired asset.) the echo 330t may be the easiest saw there is to start. you may just need to pull harder.

lastly, you didn't mention if you read the user manual. even if you have you should go over it again. if you don't have one, they are easily found and downloaded on the web. again, google is your friend. hope this helped, good luck.
 
I will give you $1000 if you can even pull the cord out by throwing the saw while holding on to the handle when it is in the condition that it is now! Never mind starting it!
 
Just gonna say, I have a decent running 330T and it doesn't have any of the problems you describe, easy to start hot or cold..you may have a bit of carbon build up around the exhaust port or on top of the piston or something like that. I guess the only choice is to take a good inspection of the saw to see what it is. If it's a pre-igniting module it might be hard to test for..a 330T shouldn't need a compression release, it's a pretty small saw. If they're hard to pull there's something wrong somewhere.
 
Just gonna say, I have a decent running 330T and it doesn't have any of the problems you describe, easy to start hot or cold..you may have a bit of carbon build up around the exhaust port or on top of the piston or something like that. I guess the only choice is to take a good inspection of the saw to see what it is. If it's a pre-igniting module it might be hard to test for..

not if it's a sheared flywheel key, you just have to take off the flywheel and look at it. of course you need the $15 tool and basic mechanical ablilities. but this doesn't sound like that. it really sounds like he may not be applying enough of a pull. he says it eventually starts after enough pulls. he didn't answer my question about previous experience with chainsaws, so...

good thing he isn't trying to start an 3120
I will give you $1000 if you can even pull the cord out by throwing the saw while holding on to the handle when it is in the condition that it is now! Never mind starting it!

i'd love to take your money but i don't need it. maybe you could use it for a gym membership. not trying to be a hard ass but maybe you could spend no more than a benny having a mechanic put his experienced hands on the 330t. mine never fails to start, first pull, even when i'm hanging by my toenails, a hundred feet up. i use it right handed, left handed and holding it in my teeth. again, check your starter. you live in a wet almost tropical environment and it may have a rusty return spring. hope this helps, good luck.
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No doubt the compression is too high. Maybe carbon buildup or valves not opening as they should. But as I said the saw should only have a few hours but Home Depot does pass off used saws that come in under warranty. I took the muffler off some time ago and it appeared fairly clean but I'm not sure that I took all the exhaust system apart. These engines are very simple in operation its just always too damn hot down here in Florida whenever I need it and frankly there is nothing I hate more than having a job to do and then end up working on the tool that I need to do that job.:baaa:
 
I'll fix it. Thanks for all or almost all advice. I'm just a bit lazy I suppose. It's a 2 stroke not a nuclear reactor.
 
I appreciate the replies but as I said as soon as I remove the spark plug it turns over easily so the starter should be ok. As I pull the rope it is very difficult through the whole cycle of the motor. Improper valve timing does sound interesting but then when it does break free why would it run fine? I typically just put it away before it ever does break free cause my arm is about broken by this time. What about something causing the exhaust valve to stick? These motors do not have a compression release correct?

might want to check the valves clearance
 
No doubt the compression is too high. Maybe carbon buildup or valves not opening as they should. But as I said the saw should only have a few hours but Home Depot does pass off used saws that come in under warranty. I took the muffler off some time ago and it appeared fairly clean but I'm not sure that I took all the exhaust system apart. These engines are very simple in operation its just always too damn hot down here in Florida whenever I need it and frankly there is nothing I hate more than having a job to do and then end up working on the tool that I need to do that job.:baaa:
That saw doesn't have any valves except the little flapper valves in the carburetor...
 
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