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Funny story

When I first got into doing small engine repair, I was change a crankcase half on a 375k. Instead of using 2 cycle mixed I used engine assembly lube let just say big mistake. Talking about hard to start I think a 3120 cat engine would had been easier to pull start
 
Funny story

When I first got into doing small engine repair, I was change a crankcase half on a 375k. Instead of using 2 cycle mixed I used engine assembly lube let just say big mistake. Talking about hard to start I think a 3120 cat engine would had been easier to pull start
Yep, I just use 2 cycle oil to oil the bearings and rings with. If I use a little too much oil it's still hard to start then it smokes like crazy!
 
A little too much oil in these saws can almost lock them up solid, I have seen several busted up recoil sides from being too hard to pull over.

i don't know what you mean by "A little too much oil in these saws." do you mean 2stroke oil in the mix or oil from assembly or what? anyway i don't think you read the thread before offering your wisdom. the original poster said he had run the saw. that should have burned off any oil in the case or cylinder. it's just hard for him to start. i didn't ask him what he used for mix. he may be straight gassing it or running anything from 25:1 to 100:1. judging from his statements, straight gassing seems to be a real possibility. apparently this is his first chainsaw, if he actually has one..

i've been running and maintaining echo top handles for more than 15 years, reed valve and piston ported. i've seen some odd problems but i haven't seen anything like what you describe. not saying it's impossible but i'd like to know more about how you encountered this multiple times.
 
Most top handles are pretty small saws, shouldn't be hard to pull unless the crankcase is full of fuel or oil..

right, but they wouldn't start or run if they were full of fuel, oil or other liquid.

...Improper valve timing does sound interesting but then when it does break free why would it run fine? I typically just put it away before it ever does break free cause my arm is about broken by this time...
 
I rebuilt a Stihl and got a little too much oil in it and it was difficult to start but when it did start it cleared away any possibility of mosquitoes. It was never that hard to pull though. The only way I would think this 330 would be full enough to make it hard to pull over would be a leaky inlet valve in the carburetor causing it to continually flood, filling the crankcase but it would never start.
I have a slight suggestion: Empty the fuel tank, remove the sparkplug and hang the saw by the bar overnight. Then put the plug back in, fill the tank with mix then try to start it.
 
I appreciate the replies but as I said as soon as I remove the spark plug it turns over easily so the starter should be ok. As I pull the rope it is very difficult through the whole cycle of the motor. Improper valve timing does sound interesting but then when it does break free why would it run fine? I typically just put it away before it ever does break free cause my arm is about broken by this time. What about something causing the exhaust valve to stick? These motors do not have a compression release correct?
I bet the rope is wrapping up on the inner spool near flywheel paws. Not getting the leverage to turn it over. or the bushing between recoil spool and recoil cover is corroded. Does it have a short spark plug in it? And is it overly flooded in the block.
 
This is what i got,
plug in = cant pull the recoil and youll yank the saw.
Plug out = able to pull it no problem.
With the plug in after numerous small rottions the engine finally "breaks free"

Sounds to me like possible Hydro lock with fuel.
But this should clear up after the initial engine start and be able to be started after with no problems. Ignition problens would not give the symptoms the op is describing. No valves to adjust (dont know wht anyone would suggest that)
Pull the recoil and inspect its operation off the saw also.
 

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