DbRt (Doubled Rope Technique)

[Lyric83]

I’d like to have more precision on Doubled Rope technique. I’m almost a beginner but not completely. I used to climb tree for pruning mission (with karabiners and slings).

Since I’ve heard about rope climbing, I’ve experience it a couple of time.
In order not damage the tree (and the rope) i climb on a doubled rope passed over a large limb.

To ascend I used a prussic hitch linked to my saddle and a second prussic hitch with a foot loop (both include the two bights of the rope).

I often climb with my son who is too young to descend with the rappel technique.

When descending I tell him to use the same method by descending first the prussic with footloop to put his weight on it to free the top prussic and descend the prussic (for saddle).

He sits down on the saddle and descend again the foot loop,… continuing till he reaches the ground.

Is it a SAFE method? As the prussik is a symmetric hitch I feel it safe. !
Is the DbRT more a SRT or a DRT ? I've read in "Recreational Tree Climbing" book that with SRT it is necessary to switch from an ascending to a desceding (rappel) method.

Thank you for your help.

 

[moss]

As described it sounds safe enough. The technique is essentially SRT on a doubled rope. I think you'll find DRT (doubled rope friction hitch climbing) easier and safer to use. Especially because there is no switchover for descent, descend on the hitch with your hand on the tail of the climbing rope as belay. There are simple ways to protect the bark and rope from damage: leather rope sleeve, condiut rope sleeve (see New Tribe web site) or an eye-2-eye sling (purchase or make it yourself.)
-moss

 

[Lyric83]

Thank you

Thank you very much Moss for these information. I'm very interesting in all the techniques explained in this forum. I'm trying technique step by step, slow and low as recommended. My next step will be to buy or build a leather sleeve or bark protector to try the DRT with split tail (blake's hitch).

Does the blake's hitch rope needs to be the same size than the main rope or can it be thiner ?

 

[Chuck R]

It is the same size. In fact, the classic config is tying the blakes using the end of the climbing rope. Have you read Tree Climber's Companion?

 

[DavidBrown1212]

oh don't be over-reactive, a dynamic rope on a tree of any appreciable size will allow three feet.

 

[deevo]

Thank you very much Moss for these information. I'm very interesting in all the techniques explained in this forum. I'm trying technique step by step, slow and low as recommended. My next step will be to buy or build a leather sleeve or bark protector to try the DRT with split tail (blake's hitch).

Does the blake's hitch rope needs to be the same size than the main rope or can it be thiner ?

Get some bee-line (8mm) for your blakes, will last longer and holds up better against the heat.

 

[moss]

oh don't be over-reactive, a dynamic rope on a tree of any appreciable size will allow three feet.

???

 

[Tree Machine]

Is the DbRT more a SRT or a DRT ? I've read in "Recreational Tree Climbing" book that with SRT it is necessary to switch from an ascending to a desceding (rappel) method.

The DbRT is much more closely related to SRT, with a number of advantages over SRT. The bigger issue is matching the gear to the method. At this time in history, I don't believe the IDEAL DbRT gear yet exists. Because of this, hardly anybody uses DbRT and SRT is all the rave. However, its probably a matter of time.

For those who are not clear on the three distinct rope techniques;
DdRT is a 2:1 system (closing loop) usually incorporating a friction hitch.
DbRT is a 1:1 system, two parallel lines, each side being used identically.
SRT also a 1:1 system, one end of the rope gets anchored below you, or above you, and you climb the single line.

DRT is double rope technique, not doubled. It means using two ropes. You can use any two of the three rope techniques in combination in a double rope system.

The nomenclature is important because the methods are individually unique, and there are only three.

if we're talking about a rope technique by name, for the sake of the readership, it's necessary to be on the same page.

To ascend I used a prussic hitch linked to my saddle and a second prussic hitch with a foot loop (both include the two bights of the rope).

You mean to say each prussic includes both legs, or both sides. A bight is a turn, or bend in the rope. In direct ascending, any bend in the rope is going to be point of resistance. Ideally the rope is kept in a straight line, just as you are doing.

 

[Lyric83]

Yes, i mean "both legs" and not "both bights". Since i posted this topic, i'v tried the split tail DRT technique.
I feel more confortable with this one. You can climb closer to the limb you're anchored to and it is easier to advance the rope by unclipping the carabiner on the hanging part.

The climbing is less efficient than with the SRT.
I still have many improvment to learn but i keep in mind to do it "Slow and Low"
Thank you for your answers.