If I remember correctly, seems like on some of the big, old McCulloch saws they had three or four big holes in their bars. I wish I remembered the model of the saw or had a pic...
Drill Holes to Lighten Bar?
- Thread starter MtnHermit
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Indeed, like this:
Just curious as to what that line is above the tree? Looks like it goes around a little rod of some kind.
I am just curious as to why some of the posts on here assume that the OP is out of shape and that is part of his problem. He just might be young at 175lbs and lean and mean.
Instead of a back up bar for your saw I like the ideal of a sharp hand saw. Then you have both in case something happens to your chain saw you still have a back up that can be used.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
From Mike Acres' site.
Why not just try it on a cheap bar and then carry that around on the saw and see what you think. I, myself, have found that I can get just about anything done with a smaller saw, too, [read: lighter] and with a shorter bar than I normally use. To wit: I took my 211 up a 60-degree slope last month, with a 16" bar, instead of my 441 with a 25" bar. It was still heavy by the time I got way up where I needed to go. But it did the job just fine. Obviously, it took me a little more time to get the trees cut up, and the 211 was being worked very hard, but it got done and I did not miss the extra weight of the larger saw as I scrambled up, at times on all-fours. In fact, I bought the 211 just a few months back for that very reason: tired of draining much of my valuable energy hauling bigger saws around difficult terrain.
Meaning: think smallest saw you can get by with, shortest bar. Well, you've [OP] have probably already thought of this option.
Meaning: think smallest saw you can get by with, shortest bar. Well, you've [OP] have probably already thought of this option.
Portable electric fence? The little rods stick in the ground and the white tape carries the wire. The stock can see the white tape better than just a plain wire and after a few learning zaps they'll stay off of it.
You can use it for temporary grazing control with a solar powered charger.
branchbuzzer
Undiagnosed
I never implied he was out of shape, I just pointed out how small that pound was in the equation of getting uphill and there were other things that could be done that make a much bigger difference. That pound makes the same difference for someone in tip-top shape as it does for someone who is untrained - it's still just one pound less weight moved, and a half-percent improvement, for any given horsepower level ( Power / Weight )
If we assumed anything, it would only be that someone in peak shape probably wouldn't be worrying much about that pound and would just get on with the business at hand.
Exactly. You don't even have to be in peak shape to carry and handle a saw that small.
You couldn't realize enough weight savings by cutting holes in the bar to even be noticeable on a saw as small as the OP uses.
The OP has posted quite a bit on here asking for advice about different things concerning saws and cutting. He usually argues with most of the advice he gets. He doesn't want our advice as much as he wants our validation of some goofy idea he already thought up or some plan of action that makes sense only to him.
LOL...he gets clobbered pretty good some times but he always comes back for more.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
i drill bigger holes in my muffler to lighten my saws
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
That's a portable electric fence, meant to keep these guys upstream of the road:
This is USFS land and the critters belong to a local rancher who has a winter range permit.
Last edited:
That's a portable electric fence, meant to keep these guys upstream of the road:
This is USFS land and the critters belong to a local rancher who has a winter range permit.
I think most of those guys are girls. Next time you're up there just walk up behind one of them, lift their tail, and check out the plumbing...or lack thereof. Let us know.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Isn't that the udder truth.... I am glad I am not trying to support a herd on tumbleweeds. And people wonder why there is erosion.
Dennis Gauge
ArboristSite Operative
I think the fact that the only pictures you can find of drilled/perforated bars are on saws from the 1960's says something about the concept.
Why do people get SOOOOOO upset when you're not 100% supportive and positive about their "original" idea? You know, maybe some of us do know what we're talking about. There are experienced saw operators here, trained engineers, etc..
If you don't believe these guys, then why not try it for yourself? Maybe you'll be blazing a trail in more ways than one.
Why do people get SOOOOOO upset when you're not 100% supportive and positive about their "original" idea? You know, maybe some of us do know what we're talking about. There are experienced saw operators here, trained engineers, etc..
If you don't believe these guys, then why not try it for yourself? Maybe you'll be blazing a trail in more ways than one.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, my Husky 435 is among the lightest rear handle saws on the market. The only saws lighter are the rear handle variants of top handle saws at 3-4 times what I paid for the 435. I was willing to get a 14" B&C but I couldn't find one at Baileys so I went cheap. Today I ordered 2-16" bars, total $12 and I'll see if I can drill a hole in one. If I can, then I make a pattern and drill the entire bar. I have a good drill press with a 5/8" chuck. If I can remove 8 oz or more then it will be a success, if not probably not worth the effort. So $6 and my time, not much to lose.
Looks like we share the same elevation, 8500 feet and a willingness to try. I have a trail project planned for 10,000' next month with one large green deadfall, that will tell me if the holes are a problem in the cut, nothing like a test. Green wood is always more problematic than dry wood like the photos above, #31.
Yo Colorado dude. This is a free forum. You came on here and asked for free advise. You got it. Kwityrbellyakin! A wise man told me to learn stuff from those I thought had something to contribute and ignore the rest. Can you try that?
mt.stalker
ArboristSite Guru
Food for thought ; Take a servicable bar , and have a local shop cut some designs or holes out of it using a water-jet or laser cutter . This way you will not take the temper out if the steel . Leave a good gap around the perimeter for strength , similar to the vintage bar pics previous .
I'm pretty confident you could shave 1lb. easily . If your lucky , or know someone who knows someone , they might be able to hook you up with this service for $cheap ? I'm sure there are some good fab shops in metropolitan areas .
I'm pretty confident you could shave 1lb. easily . If your lucky , or know someone who knows someone , they might be able to hook you up with this service for $cheap ? I'm sure there are some good fab shops in metropolitan areas .
Rounder
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rounder
Addicted to ArboristSite
Goddammit Bob! Spit beer all over the computer reading that and now my Wife's pissed......
Goddammit Bob! Spit beer all over the computer reading that and now my Wife's pissed......
We'll have to get you computer bib.
I was kinda half hoping the guy would take my advice. Or try to anyway. Might make for one hell of a video.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here are a couple of threads about making a Lighter Bar ..... or at least thats what its suppose to be.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/195819.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/116839.htm
The whole idea just seems dumb to me, Stihl makes the best lightweight bar going from the aspect of weight and strength.
Sam
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/195819.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/116839.htm
The whole idea just seems dumb to me, Stihl makes the best lightweight bar going from the aspect of weight and strength.
Sam
